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cartridge bearings

  • 02-06-2010 8:11pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 287 ✭✭


    I'm getting some lateral wobble on my front wheel. I took the wheel off last night and removed the lock nuts on the axle, and it appears to be some type of cartridge bearing (definitely no cone).

    1. It's not at all obvious how one would go about removing the cartridge. Do I need special tool? Or just fiddle and pry until it comes out?

    2. I'm guessing there may be several types of cartridges. But I can't seem to find much information online. Where might I go looking for the replacement part?

    The bike's a Dawes Mono.

    Thanks for any help.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 648 ✭✭✭lescol


    Can't say I've tried replacing cartridge bearings in a wheel, Park Tools says:- HUB-CARTRIDGE BEARING TYPE

    These types of hubs use an industrial type-bearing unit. The inner and outer rotating races and ball bearings are installed as a unit. These hubs are not serviceable in the sense they are overhauled and adjusted. When the cartridge bearings are worn, rough, or have play, the cartridge should be replaced. The bearing unit is then removed and a new one pressed in. This requires special tools and is best left to professional mechanics.

    However, you can get a removal tool such as puller_100.jpg

    You're then faced with sourcing and fitting new bearings. I think a trip to the LBS would be the way to go.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,029 ✭✭✭shedweller


    I had this issue a number of years ago with some mavic mtb wheels. They had sealed bearings and were easily removed (I'm a maintenance fitter). I forget exactly but the axle was aluminium and tapped out easy enough. A bearing may have gone out with it, i forget. Anyway, if both bearings stay in the hub then get a screwdriver or something thin enough to fit in the centre hole of the bearing and insert until it meets the opposite bearing. Tap the opposite bearing out, taking care to tap all the way around so as not to lock up the bearing in the hub. Repeat for the near side and press in the new bearings.
    It's not a big job so if you have any tech know how you should not have any problems. Just dont keep hammering if the bearing locks up or you could damage the hub. Gently does it!
    The bearings i replaced were hard to source back then. They were angular contact ball bearings (not roller like a car as i would have thought back then...i was an apprentice. heh!) with double plastic seals.
    Numbered SP 7272 ZRS. I would suggest you replace like with like because non-angular contact bearings might pop open when tensioned. Before you go to a bike shop phone up some bearing suppliers, they may or may not be cheaper but it sure pays to phone around!
    Lescol, that sure is one dainty little tool.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 287 ✭✭serendip


    @shedweller: Thanks. That makes sense. I didn't know that the axle could so easily -- well, we'll see -- be removed from the hub. Indeed, the tool above looks like it is for use after the axle has been removed.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,029 ✭✭✭shedweller


    Yup. Squeeze it together, insert through centre hole in bearing, release and pull. Hopefully not needing much violence....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 648 ✭✭✭lescol


    Here's an example of a full kit, which you obviously wouldn't require, but it gives an idea of price. Ask in your LBS how much they'd charge, I can't imagine that the wheel on the Dawes has any sort of exotic bearing, so should be pretty cheap.

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=37398


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