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Making a Saddle Board from T&G Plank

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  • 02-07-2010 3:45pm
    #1
    CBYR1983
    Registered Users Posts: 336 ✭✭


    I want to make a saddle board from some oak flooring I have - would need to be about a metre and a half long. Want to have it tapered down on both sides.

    What tools should I be using here to make it as clean as possible.

    I have a circular saw that is adjustable that I thought I would take to it, but it's too awkward to use with the clamps.

    I'm useless BTW.


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    #2
    Double Barrel
    Registered Users Posts: 1,464 ✭✭✭Double Barrel


    A bench plane with a sharp blade will do the job quite well. A No.5 jack - No.8 jointer used with the grain and take thin (almost see through) shavings, works for me.


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    #3
    SpitfireIV
    Registered Users Posts: 4,504 ✭✭✭SpitfireIV


    CBYR1983 wrote: »
    I want to make a saddle board from some oak flooring I have - would need to be about a metre and a half long. Want to have it tapered down on both sides.

    What tools should I be using here to make it as clean as possible.

    I have a circular saw that is adjustable that I thought I would take to it, but it's too awkward to use with the clamps.

    I'm useless BTW.

    Maybe a stoopid question, but I assume its a complete solid oak plank and not laminate. Like DB said, a hand plane, or failing that an electric plane would do the job (I did something similar with an electric plane a few years back, cutting a large bevel for the frame of a display case, dont know how I did it exactly, but I did it! :p) A circular saw aint gonna work and would be very dangerous.


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    #4
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    Has to be planed as said above, but a good sander afterwards will give it the good finish.


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    #5
    jack of all
    Registered Users Posts: 2,376 ✭✭✭jack of all


    As above, use a hand plane only- mark the required profile on the end grain and use a marking guage or a sliding square and pencil to mark your lines on the face and edges. Plane down to the lines, with the blade set for a deep cut initially and set more finely as you approach your lines.


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