K1100LTIC losing power

Darith

About nearly two years ago my '94'k1100 got power issues. I eventually found out that the intake tubes were not in the best shape. Just replaced these. Now in fairness the bike has not been that active for the last two years although i regularly turned on the engine. I replaced the spark plugs. It isn't running smoothly though. At idle the engine seems fine. But when i take it on the roads it loses power at about 2000 rpm and as i apply more throttle the rpm or speed will not increase then suddenly it will get a boost of power and accelerate in rpm and speed. At idle after one or two miles of this behaviour the idle might experience the same behaviour.

galwaytt

...when you say it loses or gains power, is it smooth the whole time ?

In other words, is it actually running on all 4-cylinder's ? I've had K's that have been idle for a long time and the injector's can stick. Outside of that, and assuming no air leaks in the induction system, then fuel pressure is the next thing I'd be looking at - the injection system on the K is actually straightforward.

If it's been idle for a while, I'm hoping there was plenty of juice in the tank - the pump in the tank is a peristaltic type, and need to be kept immersed in petrol to stop it drying out. When the plastic pipe in it dries out, it cracks, and thus you could end up with no/low/intermittent fuel pressure. If you do need to get a pump, only buy (a used) one from a bike that's had the pump stored in a tank, or can, of petrol..........

judas1369

There is another very real possibility and that is power to the coil(s).
I had something similar happen to me a while ago on a K100RS 16V, so its close to the K11 in layout with regards to the coil arrangement. Any way riding along and out of the blue started to run erratically, 4 down to 3 back to 4 down to 2 etc, BUT even on 4 seemed sluggish you know lacking a bit of umph. Checked fuel, air and spark everything fine, ticked over fine then lumpy but ticked over. Took out for a shakedown run and same sh1t- missing and going from 4 to 3 etc. Heres the thing it was running on 3 cylinders when I hit a small pothole in the road and BANG! all 4 cylinders came in and very much full power, deliberately hit another small pothole and ... back to 3 again. Long story short remove your coils as there is an earth wire at the back that can either break or corrode causing erratic coil performance, while you're in there clean and put some silicone oil or WD40 on all wire connectors as these can also cause the problem if corrosion gets in, a bad earth. BTW its fairly straight forward to sort but not to diagnose!
Best of luck with it!

Papa_Bear

judas1369 wrote: »

There is another very real possibility and that is power to the coil(s).
I had something similar happen to me a while ago on a K100RS 16V, so its close to the K11 in layout with regards to the coil arrangement. Any way riding along and out of the blue started to run erratically, 4 down to 3 back to 4 down to 2 etc, BUT even on 4 seemed sluggish you know lacking a bit of umph. Checked fuel, air and spark everything fine, ticked over fine then lumpy but ticked over. Took out for a shakedown run and same sh1t- missing and going from 4 to 3 etc. Heres the thing it was running on 3 cylinders when I hit a small pothole in the road and BANG! all 4 cylinders came in and very much full power, deliberately hit another small pothole and ... back to 3 again. Long story short remove your coils as there is an earth wire at the back that can either break or corrode causing erratic coil performance, while you're in there clean and put some silicone oil or WD40 on all wire connectors as these can also cause the problem if corrosion gets in, a bad earth. BTW its fairly straight forward to sort but not to diagnose!
Best of luck with it!

I find silicone grease (get it in Maplins) is better than wd40 for keeping electrical connectons or any metal part protected from corrosion. It remains mildly tacky (depending on amount applied) and doesnt dry out. I use it on my bike lock to keep it from rusting.

judas1369

Papa_Bear wrote: »

I find silicone grease (get it in Maplins) is better than wd40 for keeping electrical connectons or any metal part protected from corrosion. It remains mildly tacky (depending on amount applied) and doesnt dry out. I use it on my bike lock to keep it from rusting.

Yeah, I'd agree with you on that except I did say that I would use Silicone oil OR WD 40. The oil being my first choice.
The oil in my experience also has the "cling" or tackiness that you describe, I use both oil and grease depending on the application.
The reason I mentioned WD40 is that is what people will have to hand in most cases, and would certainly be good enough to do the job even if not as quite effective as the silicone oil/grease.

Papa_Bear

Fair enough, point taken. Most people would have wd40 knockin' around!

Darith

galwaytt wrote: »

...when you say it loses or gains power, is it smooth the whole time ?

In other words, is it actually running on all 4-cylinder's ? I've had K's that have been idle for a long time and the injector's can stick. Outside of that, and assuming no air leaks in the induction system, then fuel pressure is the next thing I'd be looking at - the injection system on the K is actually straightforward.

If it's been idle for a while, I'm hoping there was plenty of juice in the tank - the pump in the tank is a peristaltic type, and need to be kept immersed in petrol to stop it drying out. When the plastic pipe in it dries out, it cracks, and thus you could end up with no/low/intermittent fuel pressure. If you do need to get a pump, only buy (a used) one from a bike that's had the pump stored in a tank, or can, of petrol..........

Thanks for that; i will check if all the cylinders are firing plus the fuel pump could do with good looking at

judas1369 wrote: »

There is another very real possibility and that is power to the coil(s).
I had something similar happen to me a while ago on a K100RS 16V, so its close to the K11 in layout with regards to the coil arrangement. Any way riding along and out of the blue started to run erratically, 4 down to 3 back to 4 down to 2 etc, BUT even on 4 seemed sluggish you know lacking a bit of umph. Checked fuel, air and spark everything fine, ticked over fine then lumpy but ticked over. Took out for a shakedown run and same sh1t- missing and going from 4 to 3 etc. Heres the thing it was running on 3 cylinders when I hit a small pothole in the road and BANG! all 4 cylinders came in and very much full power, deliberately hit another small pothole and ... back to 3 again. Long story short remove your coils as there is an earth wire at the back that can either break or corrode causing erratic coil performance, while you're in there clean and put some silicone oil or WD40 on all wire connectors as these can also cause the problem if corrosion gets in, a bad earth. BTW its fairly straight forward to sort but not to diagnose!
Best of luck with it!

I was advised that the coils could be an issue including the relevant earth, i will also check the other earth connections

Papa_Bear wrote: »

I find silicone grease (get it in Maplins) is better than wd40 for keeping electrical connectons or any metal part protected from corrosion. It remains mildly tacky (depending on amount applied) and doesnt dry out. I use it on my bike lock to keep it from rusting.

judas1369 wrote: »

Yeah, I'd agree with you on that except I did say that I would use Silicone oil OR WD 40. The oil being my first choice.
The oil in my experience also has the "cling" or tackiness that you describe, I use both oil and grease depending on the application.
The reason I mentioned WD40 is that is what people will have to hand in most cases, and would certainly be good enough to do the job even if not as quite effective as the silicone oil/grease.

Darith

judas1369 wrote: »

Yeah, I'd agree with you on that except I did say that I would use Silicone oil OR WD 40. The oil being my first choice.
The oil in my experience also has the "cling" or tackiness that you describe, I use both oil and grease depending on the application.
The reason I mentioned WD40 is that is what people will have to hand in most cases, and would certainly be good enough to do the job even if not as quite effective as the silicone oil/grease.

I will get some oil it is probably more suitable

Papa_Bear wrote: »

Fair enough, point taken. Most people would have wd40 knockin' around!

I might some wd40 lying around

Darith

galwaytt wrote: »

...when you say it loses or gains power, is it smooth the whole time ?

In other words, is it actually running on all 4-cylinder's ? I've had K's that have been idle for a long time and the injector's can stick. Outside of that, and assuming no air leaks in the induction system, then fuel pressure is the next thing I'd be looking at - the injection system on the K is actually straightforward.

If it's been idle for a while, I'm hoping there was plenty of juice in the tank - the pump in the tank is a peristaltic type, and need to be kept immersed in petrol to stop it drying out. When the plastic pipe in it dries out, it cracks, and thus you could end up with no/low/intermittent fuel pressure. If you do need to get a pump, only buy (a used) one from a bike that's had the pump stored in a tank, or can, of petrol..........

judas1369 wrote: »

There is another very real possibility and that is power to the coil(s).
I had something similar happen to me a while ago on a K100RS 16V, so its close to the K11 in layout with regards to the coil arrangement. Any way riding along and out of the blue started to run erratically, 4 down to 3 back to 4 down to 2 etc, BUT even on 4 seemed sluggish you know lacking a bit of umph. Checked fuel, air and spark everything fine, ticked over fine then lumpy but ticked over. Took out for a shakedown run and same sh1t- missing and going from 4 to 3 etc. Heres the thing it was running on 3 cylinders when I hit a small pothole in the road and BANG! all 4 cylinders came in and very much full power, deliberately hit another small pothole and ... back to 3 again. Long story short remove your coils as there is an earth wire at the back that can either break or corrode causing erratic coil performance, while you're in there clean and put some silicone oil or WD40 on all wire connectors as these can also cause the problem if corrosion gets in, a bad earth. BTW its fairly straight forward to sort but not to diagnose!
Best of luck with it!

Papa_Bear wrote: »

I find silicone grease (get it in Maplins) is better than wd40 for keeping electrical connectons or any metal part protected from corrosion. It remains mildly tacky (depending on amount applied) and doesnt dry out. I use it on my bike lock to keep it from rusting.

Well the spark plugs are all firing. Currently replacing the fuel filter and then i can test the fuel pump. Forgot to mention this. I said i could not replicate the problem when the bike was idle but if i put on centre stand and rev her form first to third and even fourth with plenty of rpm, i cannot replicate the issue either ?

galwaytt

Darith wrote: »

Well the spark plugs are all firing. Currently replacing the fuel filter and then i can test the fuel pump. Forgot to mention this. I said i could not replicate the problem when the bike was idle but if i put on centre stand and rev her form first to third and even fourth with plenty of rpm, i cannot replicate the issue either ?

...brave lad.....hope it doesn't shoot off the bench !!

..seriously, sounds like a misfire under load, which points in the direction of plugs/leads/coils, tbh.

I've dumped perfectly-sparking on a tester, plugs before in a K100RS, and new ones cured it. It could just be a duff plug.

Darith

galwaytt wrote: »

...brave lad.....hope it doesn't shoot off the bench !!

..seriously, sounds like a misfire under load, which points in the direction of plugs/leads/coils, tbh.

I've dumped perfectly-sparking on a tester, plugs before in a K100RS, and new ones cured it. It could just be a duff plug.

In order to test if the hall unit or sensor is at fault. I remove the t cover, turn the bike on at
say about 2000 rpm. Appy the heat gun and notice if the power goes awol?

Darith

Took my k1100 to a mechanic. He identified firstly the idle was wrong.
Corrected that. Only two to three cylinders running due to two faulty injectors.
Also the butterfly assembly will have to be factory reset as they were previously adjusted.
They adjusted as best they could. I got two secondhand injectors which left the engine running
more smooth but still sometimes losing power 2-3000 rpm. MPG is about 40. It fine on the motorway except
pulling out of a roundabout. So how does one reset the assembly, whom does it and what is usually
the cost ?

galwaytt

Darith wrote: »

Took my k1100 to a mechanic. He identified firstly the idle was wrong.
Corrected that. Only two to three cylinders running due to two faulty injectors.
Also the butterfly assembly will have to be factory reset as they were previously adjusted.
They adjusted as best they could. I got two secondhand injectors which left the engine running
more smooth but still sometimes losing power 2-3000 rpm. MPG is about 40. It fine on the motorway except
pulling out of a roundabout. So how does one reset the assembly, whom does it and what is usually
the cost ?

Aha........as I said earlier, sticking injector's is a result of non-use. The cure for the future: just use the bike. Storing them just ........stores up trouble ! :rolleyes:

I gotta be honest: in 20+ years of riding BeeEmm bike's I've never, ever, seen anyone adjust those: whoever went at them should be beaten with a stick.

Realistically, the only people who'll have even a remote clue on the procedure is a BeeEmm dealer: there's only 3 in RoI: Paddy Maddock in Bray, Joe Duffy on the M50, and Keary's Motorrad in Cork. Or take it to N.I. and visit Charles Hurst.

Being main dealer's, expect main dealer prices

It might be possible to find a used (and unadjusted set) secondhand, cheaper than fixing your's. You could try contacting Motorworks in the UK - www.motorworks.co.uk


sorry for your trouble, btw, it's just one of those where the only way out is to pay your way out.