Best jtag guide ?

thenightrider

Hi i started to jtag my 360 a while back but never got to finish it got as far as dumping the files and checking them with a hex editor but as far as i rember the guide wanted me to do more solidering i cant find the guide.

Is there new guides that will save me doing more soldering after doing the dump's ?

Myrddin

Have a look in the links forum, think there's a few guides there.

TouchingVirus

thenightrider wrote: »

Is there new guides that will save me doing more soldering after doing the dump's ?

You must solder again.

The first soldering is to enable you to do the NAND dumps, read the keyvault and inject it into the modified OS (XeLL, XBR or freeBoot) and write the NAND.

After this step is done you can remove those wires.

The second soldering is to enable the console to go into JTAG mode, which will enable you to run unsigned code. These wires cannot be removed or you will RROD. Without them you are wasting your time.

So crack out that soldering iron and get to it. 3x100ohm resistors in series will suffice if you do not have diodes or experience problems with random RRODing like I did with the xenon.

Xenon:


Others
You need the 3 bits on the left of the image over at J2D2.

witnessmenow

Word on the street is this is a better job as it avoids the RROD lights going crazy (like my one). But dont take my word for it I havent ever successfuly jtagged anything!

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/5687/newwiring.jpg

TouchingVirus

witnessmenow wrote: »

Word on the street is this is a better job as it avoids the RROD lights going crazy (like my one). But dont take my word for it I havent ever successfuly jtagged anything!

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/5687/newwiring.jpg

Blackaddr knows his stuff, but by god does that diagram look way more complicated than the original 3 diode one It also requires moar parts, second port of call tbh

padraig91

once you have soldered the jtag wires like TouchingVirus showed you in the picture find a application called autoxbins http://dwl.xbox-scene.com/iriez/auto_xbins_2008.rar and run it then download the xbr image for your motherboard

/XBOX 360/development/XBReboot/

then download nandpro http://dwl.xbox-scene.com/xbox360pc/nandtools/nandpro20b.rar extract the contents of the download into a folder called nandpro and place the nandpro folder in the root of your harddrive and in the nandpro folder place your good nand dump and the xbr image name the good nand dump nand.bin and the xbr image xbr.bin now open up command prompt and type

cd\nandpro

nandpro nand.bin: -r16 rawkv.bin 1 1

***only type in 16 if your nand size is 16mb

nandpro nand.bin: -r 16 rawconfig.bin 3de 2

nandpro xbr.bin: -w16 rawkv.bin 1 1

nandpro xbr.bin: -w16 rawconfig.bin 3de 2

nandpro lpt: -w16 xbr.bin

***only type lpt if you are using a lpt port to flash if you are using a usb flasher then type usb instead

now assuming u have a 16mb nand and are using a lpt port this should take about 35-40 mins to finish writing the nand once it is done unplug the xbox from the power supply and the lpt port and leave it for about ten mins before turning it on. good luck

Wez

You can also flash just Xell to your Xbox through LPT (only 50 blocks instead of 400/3FF), update it to Xellous (rename it from 1f-xell.bin to updxell.bin, inject KV + config) and then unplug power and insert USB to the rear USB port. Xell will search your USB for the file updxell.bin (to update to Xellous) and tell you to unplug USB + power cycle once it's done. You should then unplug it for about 10-20 secs.

Then you've got Xellous on your box (they look very similar), now just rename your XBR/FB image to updflash.bin and insert KV + config from Nandpro. Put that on your USB stick and insert it like before. Power on with eject for Xell/Xellous and it will flash your entire Nand from onboard.

If you have any doubts about your wiring/it's taking too long this really helps. You'll be amazed how much faster it is with USB! It's especially handy for big block Nands of 256/512 mb.

Best of luck and let us know how it goes! Also, I found it MUCH easier when I used cat5 (ethernet cable) as they're single strands of copper and can take more pressure than normal cable. Also, USE FLUX, makes things so much easier!!

Also, for J1D2.6 (on your LPT cable - I know you're finished with it but still) I found it was a nightmare getting the solder to hold the cable, so I made up my own cable and just clip onto the metal casing for ground. I'll try throw up a pic later on to show ya.

All the software is available from Xbins, just Google "easy xbins" and it's like the 1st result.

Oh yeh, I use TV's wiring method, and if you wanna get the 1N4148 switching diodes head to Peats, they're 13c a pop, or 45c in Maplin!!