1 x 10 drivechain

Gavin

Looking at putting together a new commuter/cyclocross bike. Going to go with a single chainring and 10 speed cassette. Trying to figure out what a decent crank set would be and if chain line is going to be a problem. I was looking at a shimano 105 double crank set, and just remove the small ring. Dodgy ?

Perhaps a triple and move the big ring to the middle ? Or does anyone know of a decent singlespeed crankset that would do the job? All black. Not worried about too large a ring as I plan on using a mtb cassette/shifter on the rear. Could also use a mtb crank too

Idleater

I understand where you are going with this, and I was about to do something similar thanks to a cracked LHS crankarm on the roadbike, but if it were me, I'd be using the 39x standard 12-25 (or 11-25/23) instead of the mtb block.

I suppose this depends basically on what components you already have for the bike - I'm thinking in terms of rear deraileur as a short road cage won't have the capacity for a mtb block. The capacity issue will affect you because of the usable gears without the front derailleur to either being too tight on the big cogs or too loose on the small ones.

I did the reverse of this on the MTB - replaced a 12-32 with a 12-27 as a lightweight 3x9 cheap alternative to 2x10 and found it worked great.

As regards chainline, a triple or track single might be the best if removing rings.

Gavin

I know what you mean about the cassette but I figure that it will be handy to have the extra room for cyclocross if I only have the one ring up front. I have a spare SLX derailleur I was going to use. Thought it would be handy too as it is a shadow one, so the cable is in tight for cyclocross and it should be a bit tougher for daily commuting. I can use a chain tensioner on the front if I find the chain is hopping off.

Morgan

Is it one of the new 10-speed SLX rear mechs? Otherwise you'll be limited to 9-speed. The cage will also be far longer than necessary, maybe increasing chances of dropping the chain.

Up front a 42-tooth chainring would be your best option - you'll be quite under-geared otherwise (especially if you're going to do a few cross races). A front chain-guide would be a good option too - I recall seeing one somewhere - will post if I find it.

Morgan

Looking around - a 42 tooth ring in the inner position (on a double chainset) along with an outer chainring guard (like a bash-guard) and a chain-keeper on the inside seems like a common setup.

Double 105 would be fine.

Gavin

Morgan wrote: »

Is it one of the new 10-speed SLX rear mechs? Otherwise you'll be limited to 9-speed. The cage will also be far longer than necessary, maybe increasing chances of dropping the chain.

Up front a 42-tooth chainring would be your best option - you'll be quite under-geared otherwise (especially if you're going to do a few cross races). A front chain-guide would be a good option too - I recall seeing one somewhere - will post if I find it.

The 10 speed cassette is the same width as the 9 speed though isn't it ? The dérailleur will just do what the shifter tells it to do, so the 9 speed should be fine.

A slx crank set with the 48 ring on the middle looks a reasonably priced option too

CramCycle

Gavin wrote: »

The 10 speed cassette is the same width as the 9 speed though isn't it ? The dérailleur will just do what the shifter tells it to do, so the 9 speed should be fine.

A slx crank set with the 48 ring on the middle looks a reasonably priced option too

Some shops/salesman will tell you that there is a difference but thats not true as I put a 10 speed 105 on where my 9 speed was before and it works fine. You may have to adjust your shifters (not certain), or if you have cheap ones like mine, just switch them to friction, I'm sure my jargon is wrong but i think that covers it.

blorg

What is your thought process behind this? E.g. why is it better for you than a double up front. As Morgan suggests chain drop is the big issue; you could certainly choose a single ring up front that would be suitable for cross racing. 48 would be unnecessary for cross, 42 more like it. The other option which is popular in cross is a very closely spaced double at the front. What cassette are you planning on the back?

Gavin

I have found lately that on the mtb, I can get away with being in the big ring alone a good chunk of the time, that includes using the largest rear cog (Ned Overend says it's ok sometimes!).

Also, given the mud that accumulates in cyclocross, a single front chairing with no front derailleur should be a bit cleaner/more reliable. With a MTB 11 or 12 to 32 cassette on the rear (as mentioned above) and a 44 or 48 or so on the front I have a fairly substantial range, for both cyclocross and commuting. Gappy perhaps, but I'm not too concerned about that and it's not as bad with 10 speed versus 9 speed. I just don't think there's a need for two chain-rings up the front, with the intended use.

Lumen

Gav, there has been discussion of bash rings and single chainring CX setups before. I could only find this (further down the page).

dave2pvd might be your man for advice.

niceonetom

I tried running an old hybrid of mine as a 1x9 set up few years. Tiagra medium cage dr and (I think) deore shifters. 48 on the front, 11-25 on the back.

Constant problems with dropping the chain - and that was just on the road.

Morgan

Gavin wrote: »

The 10 speed cassette is the same width as the 9 speed though isn't it ? The dérailleur will just do what the shifter tells it to do, so the 9 speed should be fine.

A slx crank set with the 48 ring on the middle looks a reasonably priced option too

Yeah, looks like you'll get away with a 9-speed mech (it'll still be really long though ). SLX crankset sounds...ugly...a road one would be better. Is the chainline different on mtb and road cranksets?

penexpers

I ran 1 x 8 48 x 11-27T with no issues....

blorg

In my admittedly brief experience with cross mud seems to accumulate:

- around the brakes and the frame/fork near these (primarily)
- around the rear derailleur (secondarily)

The cassette also gets crudded up. Never had an issue with the front, it is far more open anyway.

Again the issue is not the gearing which you can get perfectly suitable on 1x10 but the risk of throwing the chain (Miller lost the 2003 TdF prologue running I think 1x9 due to chain drop.) You would probably want to use a chain catcher and a bash guard. It seems a lot of effort to go to specifically with very little benefit. You will also have better chainline with 2 rings up front (presuming you don't cross chain) although this probably not such a biggie.

rob1891

Lots of example setups here:

http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/race-tech-us-cyclo-cross-national-championships-24352

Surprised to see the MRP 1.x in that gallery. I was going to suggest it but the only version for sale at present is bb-mounted wuth a 40t max. Also costs as much as a front derailleur which you can fix via limit screws ...:rolleyes:

(edit: MRP alternative for CX: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=47875)

dave2pvd

Sorry I missed this.

I am a firm believer in 1 x 10. For cross or commuting. I also do road training on mine. My cross setup is 42 up front, with 12-27 out back. Road training features an 11-23 on the rear.

Outer chain guard. On the inner, I use the N-Gear Jump Stop, mounted high. DON'T use a Dog Fang. Make sure your chain length is correct. If you have a carbon fiber frame with odd-shaped tubes, I have a different type of chain guide for you - PM me.

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