Loctite

FISMA

Lads,
When mounting bases onto the receiver, are ye using loctite on the bolt/screw threads?

I am hearing conflicting ideas and emails to Remington have not been responded to.

I have heard that the manufacturer does not want to recommend loctite on the screws for the receiver in case they freeze and you break off the heads during removal.

So, please advise if you do loctite, if so, what color - blue? If not, what do you use.

Tackleberrywho

FISMA wrote: »

Lads,
When mounting bases onto the receiver, are ye using loctite on the bolt/screw threads?

I am hearing conflicting ideas and emails to Remington have not been responded to.

I have heard that the manufacturer does not want to recommend loctite on the screws for the receiver in case they freeze and you break off the heads during removal.

So, please advise if you do loctite, if so, what color - blue? If not, what do you use.

Thread lock is better as does same thing but can be removed slightly easier

FISMA

Tackle,
Have you a link?

Is this made by Loctite?

Thanks for the fast response

Tackleberrywho

FISMA wrote: »

Tackle,
Have you a link?

Is this made by Loctite?

Thanks for the fast response

Yes
http://www.loctite.com/welcome-to-loctite-12165.htm

SUPER GLUE or cyanoacrylate is only one product of the company
We use it in work all the time

FISMA

What color do you use: red, green, or blue?

dwighet

All my bases and rails are epoxied on to my receivers.... I notch a X with the dremell on the receiver were the bases/rail sits and the same on the underside of the bases/rails about 2-3 thou deep then apply araldite 2 part epoxy to the area then tighten em up and wipe away the epoxy with a que tip that oozes out from around the edges.....
Doing it this way gives you both friction and sear engagement from receiver to your bases/rail...

This works well for me especially for hard kickn rifles....

Without using epoxy and relying on the screws only, can fail as mass produced bases/rails have the screwholes drilled slightly bigger than the screws themselves....So all your relying on is friction engagment to keep everything stable... All it takes is for the screws to loosen slightly and your bases can move sideways a few thou and thats all it takes to throw your shot way off..

juice1304

there is another product called Gun-Tite Removable Theadlocker by uncle mike's.
http://www.uncle-mikes.com/products/gun_tite.html

Tackleberrywho

FISMA wrote: »

What color do you use: red, green, or blue?

We have red at home in the press. It will only open with an impact driverafter it hardens.
I bought Burris mounts as they are very secure with 6 torx heads and a big bolt holding them onto the rifle itself.

I'd only use thread lock on engine components, as dwighet said, better mounts do not losen IMHO

gunhappy_ie

FISMA wrote: »

Lads,
When mounting bases onto the receiver, are ye using loctite on the bolt/screw threads?

I am hearing conflicting ideas and emails to Remington have not been responded to.

I have heard that the manufacturer does not want to recommend loctite on the screws for the receiver in case they freeze and you break off the heads during removal.

So, please advise if you do loctite, if so, what color - blue? If not, what do you use.

There are so many types of locktite that choosing the right 1 can make or break a part.

The red bottle of locktite 221 or 222 will suffice for what you need.

If your worried about screws breaking in the reciever..... If they arent already then replace them with machined bolts that require a allen key to open. That way even if you put the stronger strength locktite on youll be able to sufficent torgue to remove it .......

Also .... a little heat goes a long way if you have a problem wit locktite

clivej

I use the wifes nail varnish to lock any screws as it's easy to break the lock if you need to unscrew the screw.

Simple init.

gunhappy_ie

clivej wrote: »

I use the wifes nail varnish to lock any screws as it's easy to break the lock if you need to unscrew the screw.

Simple init.

Any particular colour :P ?????

bunny shooter

FISMA wrote: »

What color do you use: red, green, or blue?

I use it in blue and have never had a problem opening scress/bolts if I needed to or never had a screw/bolt getting loose during use

kerryman12

as gun happy says there are loads of different loctite so be carefully which you choose, from semi permanent to permanent. WE use the 243 semi permanent at work. to be honest I am not sure I would use it on my rifle. why not get the torquing values from the manufacturer and set accordingly?

gunhappy_ie

kerryman12 wrote: »

as gun happy says there are loads of different loctite so be carefully which you choose, from semi permanent to permanent. WE use the 243 semi permanent at work. to be honest I am not sure I would use it on my rifle. why not get the torquing values from the manufacturer and set accordingly?

Manufacturers toque settings will eventually loosen on heavy recoil rifles.

The 221 and 222 ive used on everything from scope mounts to browning .50 cal.... it will hold but come off easily. (again though it its a flat head screw you have id replace it with a machined screw.)

FISMA

Lads,
Thanks for the info, I'll try a few different ideas.

I am using a Leupold 2 piece weaver base for the Rem 700. The bolts are hex, however, there was no recommended torque from the manufacturer.

I emailed Leupold and they never got back to me. I guessed that they do not want to open themselves up to liability for rang heads.

Again, thanks for the sanity check.

Tackleberrywho

FISMA wrote: »

Lads,
Thanks for the info, I'll try a few different ideas.

I am using a Leupold 2 piece weaver base for the Rem 700. The bolts are hex, however, there was no recommended torque from the manufacturer.

I emailed Leupold and they never got back to me. I guessed that they do not want to open themselves up to liability for rang heads.

Again, thanks for the sanity check.

Rule of tumb for me, use no more than 2 fingers to tighten any screws "no pun intended", and Torx are less likely to ring.

that is why i like burris tactical mounts.
tighten in a star manner, to fix in place evenly, seems common sense but I have seen scopes loosen as the screws were not tightened evenly.
If you dont have a torque drive, count the revs of the screw, mark a dot with chalk. tighten the same amount of revs.

Burris mounts have 6 screws per mount, so you get a universally distrivuted load over a broad base, much less likely to loosen, 3 years and no issues on .223 and .308.

Cass

My own personal thoughts on the matter are stay the hell away from Loctite, Glue, Epoxy, etc, etc. Loctite Red needs heat and an impact driver to remove any nuts bolts secured by it. araldite is one of the strongest bonding agents i've ever seen. It bonded items that super glue could not.

If properly installed and monitored occasionally all screws, etc should remain well tightened.

If you insist on using something i would recommend stripping the screw. Cleain the threading EXTREMELY well. Apply a small amount of Blue Loctite. This is a semi-permanent agent and screws "should" be more easily removed with just handtools.




PS - I've heard some talk of torque settings for rails, rings, etc and they range from 20 inch/lb to 35 inch/lb. I think it more guess work than actual knowledge.

FISMA

Ezridax,
I have done all that you recommended. I was at the range the other day and looked down and noticed a bolt on the ground. It was obviously "mission-specific," not just some random bit of junk that came off of an auld board or the like.

Then I noticed that it looked a lot like a Burris bolt, like mine! Yep, it rattled loose. The bolt is the one that keeps the rings on the base.

Rifle was shooting spot on, even without the bolt.

Anyhow, I figured it is best to put something on. I just don't want it to be permanent.

I think I am going to try Uncle Mike's. I got some of the red stuff here for other applications, but too afraid to try it on my kit.

+1 for the cleaning bit though, often overlooked.

gunhappy_ie

Right ladies ..... thought of ye today as I used my Locktite on some heavy duty equiptment..... What exactly I wont say but it does fire an 84mm round...


The 243 I used i actually pickd up in a local hardware store ... between 4-6 euro i think. Sure the bigger bottles are better value but this is great to take on the range and the small bottle has lasted me a long time.

I also use the same stuff for mounting scopes on AIs, locking screws on mortars ... and in todays case it was a tiny nut on a sight. Works great and can be removed easily

SpringerF

If you dont understand the information on this page then
dont try this at home


http://www.mgtd.ca/Screw%20Torque.htm

Whoever said that 20lbs/inch or 35lbs/inch was just pure guess work
is spot on.

There is a definite torque for every combination of material, size ,thread form and use.

There is a general torque for every material, size and thread form ever invented.

Tackleberrywho

SpringerF wrote: »

If you dont understand the information on this page then
dont try this at home


http://www.mgtd.ca/Screw%20Torque.htm

Whoever said that 20lbs/inch or 35lbs/inch was just pure guess work
is spot on.

There is a definite torque for every combination of material, size ,thread form and use.

There is a general torque for every material, size and thread form ever invented.

These are what i use!

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=955&store=snapon-store

CJhaughey

I got a Picatinny rail from EGW in the states and the blurb that came with it recommended Loctite blue (243) on the threads of the mounting bolts.

Mr.Flibble

221 222 243

Why are the grades of Loctite calibre specific?

Is there a Loctite for 308?

CJhaughey

Mr.Flibble wrote: »

Why are the grades of Loctite calibre specific?

They are not calibre specific but Loctites codes for the different properties of the thread lockers.
243 just so happens to be one of the most popular and widely used thread locking compounds that Loctite produce.
It is blue and medium strength thread locking compound.
There also Green 270 and Red, some of these can be applied when the parts are assembled and wick their way down the thread to lock, others need to be applied before the threads are engaged.

Mr.Flibble

CJhaughey wrote: »

They are not calibre specific but Loctites codes for the different properties of the thread lockers.
243 just so happens to be one of the most popular and widely used thread locking compounds that Loctite produce.
It is blue and medium strength thread locking compound.
There also Green 270 and Red, some of these can be applied when the parts are assembled and wick their way down the thread to lock, others need to be applied before the threads are engaged.

Are you sure? There's another one.

Cass

Look on their website. Loctite. Its only a number assigned to the product. Its pure luck that some are the same as calibers on a rifle.

Its glue/threadlocker/bonding agent. How could their be a caliber specific type. Its a liquid. It doesn't care what the caliber is or even the material for that matter. It will not refuse to bond the threads of a .308 because it is called Blue 243. Also as no glue goes into the chamber/breech/action why would caliber even be an issue if it were assigned to a specific caliber.

Rovi

That some of Loctite's product numbers happen to coincide with some calibres is pure coincidence, in exactly the same way that some of the Statutory Instruments issued over the years relating to Firearm legislation sometimes happen to coincide with some calibres.

kerryman12

as gun happy says there are loads of different loctite so be carefully which you choose, from semi permanent to permanent. WE use the 243 semi permanent at work. to be honest I am not sure I would use it on my rifle. why not get the torquing values from the manufacturer and set accordingly?

See above my earlier post, as mentioned we use 243 at work a lot - it is good tac.
What ever you do be carefull in what you select - if if you accidently put on the permanent stuff you will have to heat it to get the screw out again :eek:
this is not something you want to have to do.