Xbox fell over :(

Idioteque

My darling GF knocked my Xbox over last night (It's my fault of course for leaving as a tower!). Anyway, story is it has no green light on the power button and will not turn on via wireless controllers. It WILL however, turn on fine with a wired controller and everything works perfectly (still no lights on console power button though).
When I turn it off using wired controller it shuts down but the fan seems to continue running when it would have normally just shut down after 10 secs - 1 min depending on use.
I've checked online and looks like it's min €75 to get it repaired - I'm guessing this is just a standard charge and could go higher.
It's out of warranty and a 20GB version.
Any suggestions?
I had been considering buying one of the new ones.

Thanks

That_Guy

Have you tried syncing your controller to the console? Might work that way. If the problem persists it might be as well to bite the bullet and indulge in a new slim.

TouchingVirus

Do the wireless controllers work after you turn it on with the wired controller? The board for wireless/power button could be damaged. picking up a new one is a cheaper investment than a new slim.

Adamcp898

When you say wired do you mean an actual wired controller or just a wireless one with the play and charge kit plugged in?

I only ask because if it's a wireless controller with the play and charge kit hooked up then the machine stays on even after shutting it down in order to charge the controller. To remedy this just bring up the shut down console screen, unplug the usb for the play and charge kit and hit "a" to turn off the console.

witnessmenow

The wireless/Power button boards is something that 360 modders would have loads of. I'd try fix it rather than investing in a new one just yet.

EDIT:

Ask one of the 360 modders in the area to give you a price for replacing it

Raze_them_all

Idioteque wrote: »

My darling GF knocked my Xbox over last night (It's my fault of course for leaving as a tower!). Anyway, story is it has no green light on the power button and will not turn on via wireless controllers. It WILL however, turn on fine with a wired controller and everything works perfectly (still no lights on console power button though).
When I turn it off using wired controller it shuts down but the fan seems to continue running when it would have normally just shut down after 10 secs - 1 min depending on use.
I've checked online and looks like it's min €75 to get it repaired - I'm guessing this is just a standard charge and could go higher.
It's out of warranty and a 20GB version.
Any suggestions?
I had been considering buying one of the new ones.

Thanks

Get a less clumsy girlfriend!!

Idioteque

That_Guy wrote: »

Have you tried syncing your controller to the console? Might work that way. If the problem persists it might be as well to bite the bullet and indulge in a new slim.

Yes, tried that didn't work unfortunatly.

@TouchingVirus - nope wireless controllers don't work even when it's turned on. (centre button just keeps flashing green as it's looking for the console to pair with)

@Adamcp898 - No it's one of the actual wired controllers.

@witnessmenow - will do thanks

@raze_them_all - yes currently looking at an upgrade there too

Adamcp898

Idioteque wrote: »

Yes, tried that didn't work unfortunatly.

@TouchingVirus - nope wireless controllers don't work even when it's turned on. (centre button just keeps flashing green as it's looking for the console to pair with)

@Adamcp898 - No it's one of the actual wired controllers.

@witnessmenow - will do thanks

@raze_them_all - yes currently looking at an upgrade there too

Do you have one of the official xbox media remotes (the one that looks like a TV remote control) ?

Because if the fan staying on is an indication that the xbox is turned on like it would be if it was recharging a controller, then the media remote is able to turn it off completely.

Wez

Sounds like your RF module / ROL board is gone, ya can get these for €5-€15 if ya look around, or try borrow one from a RROD console if ya know of one.. If everything works fine, but the lights etc still don't work right, that's the only problem so replace it.

Wired controllers or media remote should work, since they're attached to the mobo completely seperately.

Normally the centre (always green) light blinking means the DVD drive isn't attached, or is moving in/out. If you can play DVD's or Games, that rules the DVD drive out..

Idioteque

Wez wrote: »

Sounds like your RF module / ROL board is gone, ya can get these for €5-€15 if ya look around, or try borrow one from a RROD console if ya know of one.. If everything works fine, but the lights etc still don't work right, that's the only problem so replace it.

Wired controllers or media remote should work, since they're attached to the mobo completely seperately.

Normally the centre (always green) light blinking means the DVD drive isn't attached, or is moving in/out. If you can play DVD's or Games, that rules the DVD drive out..

Great thanks - will try this. Everything works just like it's not broken except for the wireless and light issue so I'd say what you said here is spot on.

Cheers

-=al=-

if it is the lil power button board being replaced, this means gota open up the box, and this will void the warranty right?

peejay1986

-=al=- wrote: »

if it is the lil power button board being replaced, this means gota open up the box, and this will void the warranty right?

He said the warranty is expired anyway so that shouldn't be a problem

Idioteque

peejay1986 wrote: »

He said the warranty is expired anyway so that shouldn't be a problem

What about my XBL service - is this considered just a straight part swap as opposed to modding? (and getting me banned)

Wez

XBL is to do with your profile etc (I think, never use Live personally), once you have your original HDD / memory unit inserted, you should be fine!

The only part you're worried about is the RF module / board, this can be swapped between any console and the only thing it pairs with is wireless controllers.

You'll need to open your console to have a look inside, although if it's working don't play with anything too much (anything apart from the RF board really).. You'll need some Torx screwdrivers to take it apart and then take the RF board off. You can get these in Maplin/Peats as a set for under a tenner (PM me if you can't sort any).

TouchingVirus

Idioteque wrote: »

What about my XBL service - is this considered just a straight part swap as opposed to modding? (and getting me banned)

If you don't want to open your console I'll replace this with a working Wireless/ROL board for you while you wait (5 minutes). You just need to get the console to me If it doesn't fix your issue I'll just take back the part & we'll go our separate ways

Idioteque

Thanks for the reply Wez - I have a set of Torx screwdrivers.

TouchingVirus - cheers for the offer, if I run into any difficulty I'll PM you and organise to meet up. I'm used to taking electronic equipment apart and swapping/fixing parts so wouldn't mind giving it a go myself.

TouchingVirus

Idioteque wrote: »

TouchingVirus - cheers for the offer, if I run into any difficulty I'll PM you and organise to meet up. I'm used to taking electronic equipment apart and swapping/fixing parts so wouldn't mind giving it a go myself.

No hassle at all, it's really just a straight swap so if you're willing to dig in you should be fine.

Take off the faceplate and hard drive, use a small screwdriver to poke the clips on the grey plastic at the top & bottom (the grills) and take them off. Use the same small screwdriver to pry open the clips at the back of the case - be careful and don't lose your temper, chances are high you're going to break a clip or two without using the xbox360 opening tool and you don't want to break your case altogether Once the back is unclipped, unclip the front and remove the top cover. Remove the eject button. Remove the six Torx-10 screws (should be silver in colour) and then remove the bottom part of the case.

Remove the white cover over the wireless board's power button (snaps off from the top or bottom), and crack out the T8 and remove the 3 screws present. Remove the wireless board by pulling from the left hand side at the bottom where the actual connector goes through the chassis into the motherboard. Pop in a replacement one and you should be good to go.