Shower door paint/cover - fixing

polyfusion

The bottom of my shower door is showing signs of bubbling, and I'd like to clean it up. Haven't taken the door out to check the full extent or reason why it's bubbling, but will be taking it out fully anyway, as I want to reseal the join between the tray and tiles.

Has anyone tackled this type of job before? What types of paint and/or primers will I need to get? Also, how to clean up the bad patches fully before starting with the treatment/repair?

Any other things I need to consider?

Thanks for any useful pointers.

Joey the lips

Your shower door is bubbleing because it is made of steel rather than aluminium.

I dont imagine many have tackled it successfully.

Primers paints etc will cost about 40 euro for the job.

A new door will be about 100 -300 euro depending on the type.

Most people will tell you shower doors are like people the older they get the less they want to be moved....


Do you know the type of door you have....

polyfusion

Thanks for the reply.

I have the instructions for putting it together, but there is no manufacturer name on them. I got it in one of the big DIY stores, either B&Q or Woodies, I can't remember which, maybe 5 years ago.

I came home for lunch, and had a bit of a scrape at some of the bubbling, but it doesn't look like typical brown rusting, it's more of a loose salty, white/grey looking material that's flaking under the paint. It looks like how I'd imagine aluminium corrosion to be.

Anyway, looking at it, it looks like it might be possible to flip the 2 parts of the door, and change the hinge bits, might get another 5 years out of it, but I would still like to treat the bubbled bits if possible (the top of it probably never gets wet). The corrosion is just around the bottom parts, the rest of the door is perfect, so would be a shame to have to replace it.

jack of all

Sounds like an aluminium extrusion to me. A simple and inexpensive repair would be to remove the deposits with fine wet and dry paper, working back to bare, clean metal. Mask off with tape then use a standard acrylic primer and top coat (from automotive suppliers). As long as you've removed the powdery residue and are painting on sound metal the new paint should extend the life of the door for another few years. That said Joey has a point about moving the doors in the first place....

Joey the lips

polyfusion wrote: »

Thanks for the reply.

I have the instructions for putting it together, but there is no manufacturer name on them. I got it in one of the big DIY stores, either B&Q or Woodies, I can't remember which, maybe 5 years ago.

I came home for lunch, and had a bit of a scrape at some of the bubbling, but it doesn't look like typical brown rusting, it's more of a loose salty, white/grey looking material that's flaking under the paint. It looks like how I'd imagine aluminium corrosion to be.

Anyway, looking at it, it looks like it might be possible to flip the 2 parts of the door, and change the hinge bits, might get another 5 years out of it, but I would still like to treat the bubbled bits if possible (the top of it probably never gets wet). The corrosion is just around the bottom parts, the rest of the door is perfect, so would be a shame to have to replace it.

I dont think flipping the door will work... but your door...Fire away... Just bear in mind you usually have to disassemble the whole door.

If its not brown rust and its just flaking it would not bother me for the 5 years i am saving;

AckwelFoley

Joey the lips wrote: »

If its not brown rust and its just flaking it would not bother me for the 5 years i am saving;

A man after my own heart.

Pity my missus isnt the same

polyfusion

You're right, flipping the door won't work for me; it is possible, the hinges and sliders allow for it, but it would leave the door to open on the other side, and in the ensuite where it is, it just won't work.

I do want to reseal the tray though, so need to get under the door jambs (or whatever they're called) to do that properly, so I'll take it all out, and try some patch job on the flaking. I know what you're saying about leaving the flaking, but while I have it out, I might as well give it a go. Might make it easier to keep clean.

Thanks both for the tips.

Joey the lips

polyfusion wrote: »

You're right, flipping the door won't work for me; it is possible, the hinges and sliders allow for it, but it would leave the door to open on the other side, and in the ensuite where it is, it just won't work.

I do want to reseal the tray though, so need to get under the door jambs (or whatever they're called) to do that properly, so I'll take it all out, and try some patch job on the flaking. I know what you're saying about leaving the flaking, but while I have it out, I might as well give it a go. Might make it easier to keep clean.

Thanks both for the tips.

What ever your doing now your breaking new ground.....