Tighten chainring bolts before sportives

ashleey

I had never bothered to check them but I lost a chainring bolt on the skyride on Sunday which explains my schlek moment out of lahinch and subsequent bad changes to the inner ring on my tiagra set. Does anyone know the torque settings please? Also to advise others to give these a quick check as maybe the bumps can cause them to slowly work loose?

Captain Havoc

Here ya go

ashleey

Thanks. Obviously it was the power and cadence that did it.

FISMA

These bolts are factory glued with loctite or something.

If they came loose, then someone has been tinkering with them or the factory messed up.

Get some loctite and tighten down, nothing crazy.

I have had bicycles with 10,000 miles and mountain bikes that were heavily used. Never had a bolt rattle loose.

ashleey

Good tip. Thanks very much

irishmotorist

I'm not sure if I'd advocate sticking them with glue. I had to change my worn middle ring a few weeks ago and if it was glued, it could have turned a straightforward job into a nightmare.

Lumen

irishmotorist wrote: »

I'm not sure if I'd advocate sticking them with glue. I had to change my worn middle ring a few weeks ago and if it was glued, it could have turned a straightforward job into a nightmare.

The "loctite" reference was probably to threadlock, not glue. It's blue gunk, not adhesive.

There are a several types of loctite threadlock designed for different applications.

Note that alloy chainring bolts have much lower torque ratings.

ArraMusha

..are the "chainring bolts" the red bolts in this image ?...... Thanks for d'tip

irishmotorist

Lumen wrote: »

The "loctite" reference was probably to threadlock, not glue. It's blue gunk, not adhesive.

There are a several types of loctite threadlock designed for different applications.

Note that alloy chainring bolts have much lower torque ratings.

I did spot that there was blue gunk on the threads as I was taking them off. Is this something that I would be advised to have put on again? Would my local friendly neighbourhood bike shop likely have such stuff?

Lumen

irishmotorist wrote: »

I did spot that there was blue gunk on the threads as I was taking them off. Is this something that I would be advised to have put on again? Would my local friendly neighbourhood bike shop likely have such stuff?

It does wear off eventually. This may help.

tunney

Lumen wrote: »

The "loctite" reference was probably to threadlock, not glue. It's blue gunk, not adhesive.

There are a several types of loctite threadlock designed for different applications.

Note that alloy chainring bolts have much lower torque ratings.

And the green stuff is impossible to find

monkeypants

Loctite is used on racing motorcycles to keep it all together, so there's nothing on a bicycle that should need anything more than that.

Lumen

monkeypants wrote: »

Loctite is used on racing motorcycles to keep it all together, so there's nothing on a bicycle that should need anything more than that.

Ah, but which loctite?

( and please don't say "the blue one" :pac: )

Morgan

Lumen wrote: »

Ah, but which loctite?

( and please don't say "the blue one" :pac: )

242 for most purposes (the blue one)

tunney

monkeypants wrote: »

Loctite is used on racing motorcycles to keep it all together, so there's nothing on a bicycle that should need anything more than that.

Loctite 609 aka the green threadlock loctite is an anerobic activated medium strength glue - thats what should be used not normal loctite that gets everywhere and sticks to surfaces. 609 is recommended for things like setting rebuilding bottom brackets.

Lumen

Morgan wrote: »

242 for most purposes (the blue one)

Thanks.

LOCTITE® 242® is designed for the locking and sealing of
threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with
standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the
absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces and
prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration.

ah, but....

LOCTITE® 243™ is designed for the locking and sealing of
threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with
standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the
absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces and
prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration.

Spot the difference. :pac:

A quick Google suggests 243 has superceded 242.

Raam

I tighten mine with an allen key.

monkeypants

Lumen wrote: »

Ah, but which loctite?

( and please don't say "the blue one" :pac: )

*runs off to check toolbox*

It's 243.

I could check what my Da's been using, but he's been using it so long it's probably called Loctite 1.

tunney

monkeypants wrote: »

*runs off to check toolbox*

It's 243.

I could check what my Da's been using, but he's been using it so long it's probably called Loctite 1.

About two months ago I posted here looking for 609 - anyone know where I can get it?

Lumen

tunney wrote: »

About two months ago I posted here looking for 609 - anyone know where I can get it?

I think about two months ago I suggested ebay.

You wanted it quicker than that. :pac:

bcmf

Raam wrote: »

I tighten mine with an allen key.

I cant believe it
took someone so long to post this

tunney

bcmf wrote: »

I cant believe it
took someone so long to post this

If you have ever had a bolt or two pop *just* as you sprint. You'd understand why loctite is required. They do loosen and if they pop at the wrong moment - you fold the ring (literally) and crash hard.

bcmf

@ tunney I was reffering to the tongue in cheek style of answer.