Matterhorn

claxxix

Hi lads,

I’m looking for information from people who have climbed (or attempted to climb) the Matterhorn. I recently slogged up and down Mt Blanc by the Trois Mont route in June this year. It was great to summit this year. I went over last year only to be denied by weather that was deemed too dangerous to attempt an accent.

I do a little scrambling and have started rock climbing in the last two years. Realising that the Matterhorn is a totally different proposition from Mt Blanc I went to Zermatt for a few days before I headed to Chamonix for the Mt Blanc preparation this year. I spent a night in the Hornli hut to check it out and to do a recce on the climb. It looks exciting but doable. I’ve already done my own research on what guides require and the fitness levels expected. I am under no allusions as to the fitness levels required. I am very confident I can reach the required fitness level.

However, I’m looking for information from those who have climbed (or attempted) the mountain, by guide or with a climbing partner. Myself, and possibly two friends will hopefully be getting a guide to climb the mountain next year. That said, but I’m anxious to hear about the climb itself, the best and / or cheapest guides available, and the preparation needed.

Regards,
claxxix

Down South

There are regular threads on www.ukc2.com on this. I think the guide ratio on the Matterhorn is 1:1, though that might be only the Hornli Ridge

Mickeroo

For a guided accent would you still need a lot of alpine experince? Or is it pretty straight forward?