Fujiroid negatives

DaireQuinlan · 30-08-2010 8:41am #1

There are a few people here who shoot peel apart instant film, mostly from fuji I guess, this might be of some interest. With 100c and 100b you can actually bleach off the black backing on the negative and get a proper transparency that you can scan as you would any negative.

It's (or at least it seems to be) considerably sharper than the print. Tones and exposure are a bit off though, but I haven't decided whether or not that's my PP after the scan or whether it's the negative itself. In addition you can give the print to someone and then keep the neg to scan as you wish. Win !

What you do is ... shoot the film. This shot I took at normal (100) speed, I might try underexposing it next. Wait for whatever length of time and peel it. Give the print to your willing accomplice for being patient enough to sit around and have their picture taken. Then ...

1. with COLD water clean off the gloop on the negative side. This'll be a fairly thick layer of whitish stuff. I say COLD water because if the water is in any way warm the emulsion will come off with the gloop. You don't want this to happen.

2. Let it dry, flip it over, and tape it down to the bottom of a plate or dish of some description. Reason here is to not allow any of the bleach to reach the emulsion as it'll apparently strip it right off.

3. I used milton sterilising fluid for this, but other people have used normal household bleach. Pour it onto the black backing of the negative. wait for a bit and start rubbing it to remove the backing. It should come off without any difficulty at all. Rinse, and if there's any left, repeat the above.

4. Unstick it, rinse it in a bit of water & photo-flo and hang it up to dry. I was shooting in a bronica so I then cut it to 61mm, same size as 120, so that I could sleeve it and put it into the scanner film holder.

Here's the result ...

Print ...

Negative scan ...

As above, I only had a limited time to try and PP the scan. I'm pretty sure you could colour correct it given time, the tones on the print are much nicer than the scan. The only thing I'm curious about is whether or not the negative side actually -is- that over exposed or not. Further experimentation needed ...

Fajitas! · 30-08-2010 9:38am

I really didn't think there'd be that much detail retained in the neg side, I'd just been so used to scrapping them.

Time for a new Polaroid back methinks. Sigh.

elven · 30-08-2010 10:08am

Oh!!!!!!

Chorcai · 30-08-2010 7:31pm

This recession busting tip was brought to you by DQ!

Joking aside, both neg + print look really well.

DaireQuinlan · 31-08-2010 9:44am

Actually, having done a bit more reading up on this, it's a known problem. The negative side is really really thin, having transferred most of its dyes to the print side. I'll try underexposing by a few stops and see what happens (which would be also kinda cool if I could have asa400 packfilm

) but the general consensus is that the shadow areas block up and get grainy fairly quickly.

DaireQuinlan · 13-09-2010 7:05pm

I think I'm going to forget about this, this is another shot I took at 400, so underexposed by 2 stops. Sure there's more density, but underexposure gives the highlights a magenta cast, and it gets real grainy real fast, nowhere near the quality of a proper MF neg. I think I'll stick to the prints

There's a nice sort of painterly feel to the grain though ...

Fajitas! · 13-09-2010 7:21pm

Are the results any better from the BW?

DaireQuinlan · 13-09-2010 7:39pm

Fajitas! wrote: »

Are the results any better from the BW?

I haven't tried the 100 speed BW, i guess you wouldn't have the problem with the colour casts anyhow. I know you can't get a negative out of the 3200 stuff anyhow, which is a pity, you can get some lovely shots out of it.

Fujiroid negatives

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