Aritech CS 350 - Query

altor

minder2009 wrote: »

just looking in the control panel of my cs350.I see that the tamper circuit seems to be the yellow /blue cables just stuck together in sheaths. Does the tamper circuit have a connection in the actual panel to monitor it?

I would have thought that it must be connected into the panel in order to monitor any breaks in the circuit. Appreciate a bit of advice on this subject!

A lot of CS350s I come across are done the same. That is the tamper circuit I was telling you about with the sensors. Instead of wiring them all dual, they are just wired single end of line, makes it easier for the installer.

KAGY

Don't mean to hijack, but it's definitely on topic and think that the answer maybe useful to others.
On the CS 350 Panel would a gross setting of 1 reduce the sensitivity, or activate on a lighter gross input?

KoolKid

The lower the number the more sensitive it is.
Gross 1 most sensitive Gross 9 least sensitive.
Gross level is how muce force must be applied in a single action.
Pulse level is the amount of lower level force that must be applied.
Eg Gross 4 would determine how hard a single bang on the window must be.
Pulse 4 would be detecting lover levels eg cutting glass or trying to to remove glass .

KAGY

koolkid wrote: »

The lower the number the more sensitive it is.
Gross 1 most sensitive Gross 9 least sensitive.
Gross level is how muce force must be applied in a single action.
Pulse level is the amount of lower level force that must be applied.
Eg Gross 4 would determine how hard a single bang on the window must be.
Pulse 4 would be detecting lover levels eg cutting glass or trying to to remove glass .

So problems with birds flying into the patio doors I should set the gross to 7 maybe and leave pulse at 5 (they're not going to do it more that once :-) )

KoolKid

That's the correct way of thinking.
Although I would up the gross one at a time so as to get the problem solved at the lowest possible level.

minder2009

installed 2 nd RPK. Works fine mainly! I notice todaY i had the new one on engineer mode and the original just showed usual time and date. I thought both should work in unison. I can alarm/disarm etc on both no bother.
Can i check the folowing:

I set the 2nd RKP Dip for 2.
I programmed in on 'output/remotes. It showed K*k* on original remote , then the 2 nd one worked fine.

Under 'output /remotes' (I may have inadvertingly hit a wrong seting whilst setting the kekpads to PA - they work with the arrows now ok)

output type.
01 PA
02 PA
03 ALARM
04 DIS/ARM
05 INT BELL
06 EXT BELL

ARE THESE CORRECt UNDER THE SETTINGS ABOVE?
setting:-
INSTALL REMOTE
REMOTE K*K*

tHKS

KAGY

I can answer the first bit. You can only program on one pad at a time, stops someone on the other side of a building messing around with settings when the engineer is in!

minder2009

sound thks makes sense!! i am still curious about all those differnt options on the outputs!! cheers:p

KoolKid

Outputs 1 2 3 4 are terminals 8 9 10 and 11 on the main PCB . These can be user defined for the corresponding terminal to switch + or -

They were generall used to trigger a digi.

Out puts 5 & 6 are terminals 5 and 7 on the PCB these are the - triggers for the internal & external bell (strobe)

The correct setting for keypad 2 is dip 1 on.
The dips work as binary of the address -1
Keypad 1 all off
Keypad 2 1 on
Keypad 3 2 on
Keypad 4 1 and 2 on

minder2009

THKS A LOT.

I SELECTED NUMBER 2 ON THE DIP ON NEW SECOND KEYPAD.I UNDERSTAND NOW THATS INCORRECT. I SHOULD HAVE SELECTED THE FIRST , NO 1 ON THE DIP , FOR THE SECOND RKP?

I WILL TAKE OFF THE COVER AND PUT 2 BACK AT IT WAS AND CLICK FORWARD NUMBER 1. IS THERE ANY NEED TO REPROGRAM ON INITIAL RKP? I ALREADY PROGRAMMED IT FOR INSTALL REMOTES

CHEERS
-update update!! should have left well enough alone! on last advice , went into engineer mode , removed new RPK lid deselected no 2 and selected no 1.- RKP FAULT message 'rem disconnect 4' rem disconnect 3 !yellow fault led .
- HELP! - message now displayed: Original RPK #04 03 remote and 2 RKP -RKP FAULT and yellow fault LED on.on checking the instal remote menu shows KK** is that correct?

ALL WELL!! READ MANUAL , MUST BE NO POWER TO RKP WHEN CHANGING DIP. DID THAT AND ALL IS WELL.

CHEERS AND THANKS...

D

KoolKid

minder2009 wrote: »

THKS A LOT.

I SELECTED NUMBER 2 ON THE DIP ON NEW SECOND KEYPAD.I UNDERSTAND NOW THATS INCORRECT. I SHOULD HAVE SELECTED THE FIRST , NO 1 ON THE DIP , FOR THE SECOND RKP?

I WILL TAKE OFF THE COVER AND PUT 2 BACK AT IT WAS AND CLICK FORWARD NUMBER 1. IS THERE ANY NEED TO REPROGRAM ON INITIAL RKP? I ALREADY PROGRAMMED IT FOR INSTALL REMOTES

It is not a big deal & it wont actuall affect the operation of the second keypad. If you chang the dip to 1 on (keypad 2) go back into Remotes /Keypad
Install Remote.
It will now show kk** press accept & the second keypad should come online.

minder2009

re z3.

Altor taking your advice cut back the plaster and have cables joined now ok. Joined the black and red at panel , took out resistor , and went back to the front window where I had the broken cable. I took one pair of wires (black and red) from one cable and put them on tester and got a reading, so it seems that wires from panel are going to this sensor anyway.
I joined red from one cable (coming in) to black of other cable (going out)and the other way around and got reading on both.I presume the circuit is continuing ok.
Got reading from joining one set of tampers but not other ,(maybe thats because cover off and metal spikes not connecting to tamoer on the actual s/sensor).
I tested the wires in the panel that I had connected initially and they give a reading..would not indicate that the circuit is complete (alarm circuit anyway?) and then that its probably the sensor is the problem

Sorry for the long one again , faukt finder is my weakest area! Dying to get fixed to move on to 2nd pir installation stage!!

altor

If you disconnect all the cables going to the sensors, join red with red, black with black, blue with blue and yellow with yellow on the alarm loop you will soon see where you have the problem with the cable. If you find it not working then start with the furthest cable away from the panel on the loop and touch red with black plus blue with yellow off each cable. You will soon see where the fault is.

minder2009

(Thks For message re Drawing Altor, I got it sorted ok rewired the circuit ok , but wud be handy to have yours for ref)

I now found that I appear to have three circuits upstairs.
1 is Z1 the front windows , connected walked tested & grand
2. is Z2 the back windows of the house , connected , walked tested & grand.All zones now used on panel

---

I have 2 shock sensors left , the landing window and the main bathroom.
I took lid off the landing window and I see a bell wire(being used as alarm cable) and an alarm 4 core cable at this window.
RE: Landing window s/sensor -I presume one is coming from panel to landing , and looped onto the bathroom s/sensor.
I cannot see any 'extra'wire at panel for this circuit (no spare zones anyway its possible these s/sensors were never connected to panel), will try trace it later.

On the chance I do find this cable I have no zones spare anyway,The bathroom s/sensor is tiled in and will be difficult to remove.
Whats the best way to try and see if it is in fact connected properly to avoid breaking tiles to open it!

Secondly (altor advised in this instance already that I can join two zones to free up one) I tried to join (see above) z1 & z2 together
without sucess. I put the two red wires out of z2 into zone 1 and joined the black wires together into a connector and connected other end to z1 with the 4k7 resistor. I then programmed z2 to 'unused' and walk tested , only one zone would work and the other would not. Any advice? I could use the spare if this worked to try get the landing window and bathroom sensor onto this spare circuit if joining the 2 would work

thks

minder2009

Hi

I have an aritech cs350. I wonder would any one be able to draw a simple wiring diagram including colour of wires (red/black alarm circuit) to show -

Panel to 3 Shock sensors in series please.


Having problem with one particular circuit with 5 shock zones , just cannot recall how the wiring goes exactly.
Thks A Lot:rolleyes:

altor

I will do you one up for you, I will post it later as I am on the mobile;)

altor

Hope this helps.

minder2009

Another thing I wondered about:)

I got the alarm guy to add magnetic sensor the front window shock sensors , so / shock and opening the window would set the alarm off.

I notice now that the old shock sensor is still there with two magnet strips beside it. It looks like he just fitted to magnetic strils beside the sensor and it works! Open/close - activated - and bang the window activates with window closed. I cant seem to see any wires going from the original shock sensor??

Is it only a matter of putting the magnetic part beside the shock sensor and it will work?

Confused! :eek:

altor

minder2009 wrote: »

Another thing I wondered about:)

I got the alarm guy to add magnetic sensor the front window shock sensors , so / shock and opening the window would set the alarm off.

I notice now that the old shock sensor is still there with two magnet strips beside it. It looks like he just fitted to magnetic strils beside the sensor and it works! Open/close - activated - and bang the window activates with window closed. I cant seem to see any wires going from the original shock sensor??

Is it only a matter of putting the magnetic part beside the shock sensor and it will work?

Confused! :eek:

It was more than likely a magnetic shock sensor that was installed. These have the reed fitted inside the sensor so changing the cabling inside the shock to incorporate this will make it work.

minder2009

altor fair play thks and for diagram earlier Your on the ball!

I was trying to join two shock zones earlier today with no luck ,,,,,you advised me previously.

I did a post on it earlier , here , just to summarise...two shock zones upstairs..Z1 and Z2. Joined both reds to Z1 Both blacks also with R 4k7 into the second terminal for Z1. 'Unused' in RKP for z2 which i want for spare.
I did walk test then on Z1 and only one of the original zones worked. The other dead. I put it back the way it was and its ok....Any ideas?

Thks

:rolleyes:

altor

minder2009 wrote: »

altor fair play thks and for diagram earlier Your on the ball!

I was trying to join two shock zones earlier today with no luck ,,,,,you advised me previously.

I did a post on it earlier , here , just to summarise...two shock zones upstairs..Z1 and Z2. Joined both reds to Z1 Both blacks also with R 4k7 into the second terminal for Z1. 'Unused' in RKP for z2 which i want for spare.
I did walk test then on Z1 and only one of the original zones worked. The other dead. I put it back the way it was and its ok....Any ideas?

Thks

:rolleyes:

Your welcome minder2009, always happy to help

Without looking at it I would think its an issue with the resistor. If you have a meter set it on continuity and test the red/black if that is the alarm colours to see if both zones work.

If the alarm zone is only set up for single end of line it will be done this way with one resistor.
If you have red/black as alarm for one zone back at the panel then join the red to the black of the other loop, This will leave you with a red and black. Put black in one part of the zone, put resistor leg in the other side and join the other leg to the red.

minder2009

I Have Black And Red As Alarm Circuit.So , Is this right?! Join the
red wire of 1st Zone to the Black wire of the 2nd zone. (Then that
leaves me with a black and red)
I put the first wires joined into 1st terminal of a zone.

then put the remaining red wire and black together , and join them ,
making sure that both have contact with the resistor and insert into
the second terminal of same zone?
I am sorry for trying to make it so simplistic..If this is the case I
will shoot up into the attic and give it a try! I know you were clear
in yr reply , but i need baby steps at mo!
- Show quoted text -

altor

minder2009 wrote: »

I Have Black And Red As Alarm Circuit.So , Is this right?! Join the
red wire of 1st Zone to the Black wire of the 2nd zone. (Then that
leaves me with a black and red)
I put the first wires joined into 1st terminal of a zone.

then put the remaining red wire and black together , and join them ,
making sure that both have contact with the resistor and insert into
the second terminal of same zone?
I am sorry for trying to make it so simplistic..If this is the case I
will shoot up into the attic and give it a try! I know you were clear
in yr reply , but i need baby steps at mo!
- Show quoted text -

Correct. By joining the red with the black, one off each loop you are going to make just one. Black in one side of the zone, resistor in the other and join the red on to the other resistor leg coming out of the panel.

Hope this is clear for you.

minder2009

:eek: I have 3 shock zones. I identified the 1st from panel. I joined all the red wires together then the black wires together , and joined the red& black together on the last on loop.I checked at panel I put tester on the red&black for that zone I got continuity.

I wired all the sensors together (nummerous times!) and cannot get continuity.
(Sensor layout: 6 terminals -1.spare 2and3 (linked to 'shock barrell')4 spare. 5/6Tamper terminals at bottom of sensor.


Simply put - (Alarm Circuit) I put the red wire from panel to 1st sensor to terminal no.2 and black from cable comimg in from next sensor to terminal no.3.I joined the black /red left and put it to terminal 1(spare)

2nd sensor. I put black wire from cable coming from 1st sensor into terminal no.2 and the red wire from 3rd(final sensor)into terminal no3.again I joined the black and red together and into terminal no.1(Spare)

on the 3rd(last) there is a red/black which I put to terminal no.2 and terminal no.3.

Thats the alarm circuit..What did I do wrong there???

Just re Tampers , I joined a blue & yellow from different cables in each sensor and put the 2 wires (1) to spare terminal and other 2 to the bottom terminals one wire to 5 & other to terminal 6.

any advice gratefully accepted!!!

altor

minder2009 wrote: »

:eek: I have 3 shock zones. I identified the 1st from panel. I joined all the red wires together then the black wires together , and joined the red& black together on the last on loop.I checked at panel I put tester on the red&black for that zone I got continuity.

I wired all the sensors together (nummerous times!) and cannot get continuity.
(Sensor layout: 6 terminals -1.spare 2and3 (linked to 'shock barrell')4 spare. 5/6Tamper terminals at bottom of sensor.


Simply put - (Alarm Circuit) I put the red wire from panel to 1st sensor to terminal no.2 and black from cable comimg in from next sensor to terminal no.3.I joined the black /red left and put it to terminal 1(spare)

2nd sensor. I put black wire from cable coming from 1st sensor into terminal no.2 and the red wire from 3rd(final sensor)into terminal no3.again I joined the black and red together and into terminal no.1(Spare)

on the 3rd(last) there is a red/black which I put to terminal no.2 and terminal no.3.

Thats the alarm circuit..What did I do wrong there???

Just re Tampers , I joined a blue & yellow from different cables in each sensor and put the 2 wires (1) to spare terminal and other 2 to the bottom terminals one wire to 5 & other to terminal 6.

any advice gratefully accepted!!!

At the panel you have red and black, first sensor if the windows are looped together put the two black in shock terminals, two red in spare. Second sensor the same as 1, 3rd sensor you put the red in the shock plus the black in the shock. This closes the loop.

minder2009

Hi Altor

Thks a Mill. Just did that and walk tested , its perfect!
One thing though!!!

After I wired as you said I went to panel , and tested for continuity (without resistor) no continuity !How was that I wonder yet the 3 sensors are perfect on walk test??!!

Have to head to work now , gonna gave a bash at joining that circuit with another as you advised earlier when I get back.

I am just concerned that despite the walk test success , i may have a problem with joining the 2 zones , as i did yesterday!

Again thanks for all your time (Thank god)d no fee is involved would owe ya a fortunte!!)

altor

minder2009 wrote: »

Hi Altor

Thks a Mill. Just did that and walk tested , its perfect!
One thing though!!!

After I wired as you said I went to panel , and tested for continuity (without resistor) no continuity !How was that I wonder yet the 3 sensors are perfect on walk test??!!

Have to head to work now , gonna gave a bash at joining that circuit with another as you advised earlier when I get back.

I am just concerned that despite the walk test success , i may have a problem with joining the 2 zones , as i did yesterday!

Again thanks for all your time (Thank god)d no fee is involved would owe ya a fortunte!!)

The bill is in the post

What you should do is close the red and black together without the resistor at the panel. Go to the first and test for continuity, if you hear it ring go to the second and third sensor and try the same. You should be getting continuity for the alarm to test the zone.

minder2009

yeah I did that initially tested with red/black joined in panel.got continuity.


Is it ok now , to do this , will join black and red again at panel without resistor and check back thru sensors , If I put one point of tester at the 1st black wire in the sensor and the other to the joined reds , if I get signal then will that do?and then to the 2nd black wire in the same sensor with the joined reds Or


Is is necessary to remove the joined reds and specifically test the actual red wire coming from panel? with the actual black from the panel? Its a pain having to keep twisting them together in 1st instance then unravelling again to test!

thks

altor

minder2009 wrote: »

yeah I did that initially tested with red/black joined in panel.got continuity.


Is it ok now , to do this , will join black and red again at panel without resistor and check back thru sensors , If I put one point of tester at the 1st black wire in the sensor and the other to the joined reds , if I get signal then will that do?and then to the 2nd black wire in the same sensor with the joined reds Or


Is is necessary to remove the joined reds and specifically test the actual red wire coming from panel? with the actual black from the panel? Its a pain having to keep twisting them together in 1st instance then unravelling again to test!

thks

You will need to disconnect it in the last sensor if you going to test them that way as the meter will still ring as the loop is still closed. You could also disconnect one of the cables going to the shock to break the circuit meaning you wont have to disconnect everything.

minder2009

3 shock zones.(black /red alarm circuit)wired as follows: Black in and out of reeds , joined the reds at spare , last on loop red and black in/out of reed.Tampers joined correctly. Walk test and fine. Removed 4k7R from zone tested R/B wires for continuity - none.joined all the reds to the reds and blacks to the black and the last on loop black and red together , have continuity at panel.

---

(Re joined B/R at panel for this zone) starting at last on loop(no3) working backwards(no.3) - Joined R/B wires throught the reed tested at middle sensor (no2) have continuity at the the B/R coming to 2nd sensor from last on loop(no3).(The 1st sensor still has the red to red/ black to black joined and the wires at panel joined together) So at the middle (2sensor) I have continuity from No3(last on loop) and from No 1 (1st in loop) I join the reds together in spare terminal. I join the blacks and test at panel - have continuity. When i put the 2black wires thru the reed I lost continuity. I changed the reed and still none.I tested the reed and continuity is fine. I am stuck at this point. (Note Moved here recently I did notice that who ever put alarm in initially had the black& red together at spare terminal in the last shock sensor at end of loop so that sensor did not work. They should have been put through the reed- perhaps he had a problem with this circuit as well!) I am stuck now!! Any further ideas anyone?!At the end of the day I can join them and they will work and there will be no problem ,however , I was hoping to join 2 upstairs circuit to the one zone to free a spare one for the side windows which appear to never have been connected at all to the system (Cowboys!) cheers