Aritech CS 350 - Query

altor

I would think there must of being a problem with the cable on the original install for it to be left like this. Running a new cable may be your only option.

minder2009

Have wired back the 3 sensors on front windows. WAlk tested all working fine.Cannot understand how there is no continuity at panel on this zone however. I noted that testing the red wire with the black on this zone (z3) shows:
On the meter at 'V' volts - (setting 20K) - reading of 3.98 and 0.08 ohms (20K)


compared with other upstairs zone for other window circuit as follows:



V ( at 20k ) - (Z1) Setting ohms 00.0 / v - 2.50.
Thks

altor

minder2009 wrote: »

Have wired back the 3 sensors on front windows. WAlk tested all working fine.Cannot understand how there is no continuity at panel on this zone however. I noted that testing the red wire with the black on this zone (z3) shows:
On the meter at 'V' volts - (setting 20K) - reading of 3.98 and 0.08 ohms (20K)


compared with other upstairs zone for other window circuit as follows:



V ( at 20k ) - (Z1) Setting ohms 00.0 / v - 2.50.
Thks

It should be giving you continuity for it to be working on walk test. You should run a loose cable to the sensors and test it that way to see if it works.

minder2009

just trying to join 2 zones (upstairs windows) Altor following your previous post re this...


Both have continuity at Panel. Have 2 red 2 black wires. Join black to red , put in one terminal of zone.
Join remaining black and red into a connector together , ensuring contact with leg of 4k7 resistor , join other leg of resistor to other terminal.

walk test - no reaction.

am i missing something?

aaltor you mentioned , this should work in 'single end of line' set up. wonder has that anything to do with the prob. here?

Cheers
thks

altor

I said..

Without looking at it I would think its an issue with the resistor. If you have a meter set it on continuity and test the red/black if that is the alarm colours to see if both zones work.

If the alarm zone is only set up for single end of line it will be done this way with one resistor.
If you have red/black as alarm for one zone back at the panel then join the red to the black of the other loop, This will leave you with a red and black. Put black in one part of the zone, put resistor leg in the other side and join the other leg to the red.

Plus i said..

By joining the red with the black, one off each loop you are going to make just one. Black in one side of the zone, resistor in the other and join the red on to the other resistor leg coming out of the panel.

Do you know what the zone loop is set up for ? Do you have engineer access to the alarm to check this ?

minder2009

altor wrote: »

I said..

Without looking at it I would think its an issue with the resistor. If you have a meter set it on continuity and test the red/black if that is the alarm colours to see if both zones work.

If the alarm zone is only set up for single end of line it will be done this way with one resistor.
If you have red/black as alarm for one zone back at the panel then join the red to the black of the other loop, This will leave you with a red and black. Put black in one part of the zone, put resistor leg in the other side and join the other leg to the red.

Plus i said..

By joining the red with the black, one off each loop you are going to make just one. Black in one side of the zone, resistor in the other and join the red on to the other resistor leg coming out of the panel.

Do you know what the zone loop is set up for ? Do you have engineer access to the alarm to check this ?

---

I bought a new resistor as you advised there may be a problem there.It is fine and works in the zone presently. I tested both zones and both have continuity at panel thats grand. I joined the black wire of one zone to the red wire from the other zone and placed them into terminal (1) of a zone in panel.Thats the joining one off each loop as you say above(I think!)

---

I then have a red and a black wire from each loop left. Trying to follow what you say then , you say black in one side of zone , resistor in other...does that mean put the remaining black wire into the other terminal of the zone by itself?(if so ok will do) ..
____________________________________________________________
you then say resistor in the other...do I then put one leg in resistor (in the other..) is that the other terminal the (1st) where I initially joined the black &red?Is that what you mean?
______________________________________________________________

then lastly ..join the red onto the other resistor leg coming out of the panel........at this point there will be one remaining red wire ok, i should join this red wire to resistor leg and place in 2 nd terminal?is that right.

---

I am sorry for making a mountain out of a molehill here , I would leave if I didnt need free zone. I see your making it very simple I am grand with R/B joined one terminal , bit hard to follow for 2 nd red black with resistor. sorry.
_______________________________________________________________

I have engineer access just re the end of line set up ,its probably the way I am putting the wires into zone thats causing problem.

altor

I see where your going wrong

When you join the red and black together you put a connector block over this. You dont put this in the zone in the panel.

The red and black that is left it the circuit your using.
Place the black in one side of the zone terminal.
One leg of the resistor gets connected on to the red core with a connector block.
The other leg of the resistor goes in the zone terminal.

It does not mater if you use the colours the other way around.

Let me know how you get on..

minder2009

hi altor think i have the picture now at long last!

Just before I do that am stuck again!! I traced a cable from the 2 side windows of the house to panel. I discovered the cable sitting there connected to nothing. I need to join these 2 windows to a zone thats why I am trying to free up one.

---

I replaced the aritech sensor on the landing with a hkc.The other window is the main bathroom is Aritech.

Whats happening is , (Have continuity from panel to landing window and onto bathroom window -Via bell wire!) I am putting the black wires into the middle terminals of the HKC. And joining the reds in spare with tampers in other terminals. I can get one to walk test without the other!

Two things.A. is it ok to have the HKC sideways on the window frame(barrell to the right as you look at it) B. is it the middle two terminals that are joined on the HKC shock sensor.

thanks again

altor

Yes it is ok to put them on there side once the arrow on the barrel is pointing up.

The sensors are wired,
1 SPARE OR REED
2 ALARM
3 TAMPER
4 TAMPER
5 ALARM
6 SPARE OR REED

minder2009

ah thats brill altor thks a million. I was using 3/4 when i see I should have been using 2/5 for the blacks and joined the red in 1/6!
Another prob solved!:P

altor wrote: »

Yes it is ok to put them on there side once the arrow on the barrel is pointing up.

The sensors are wired,
1 SPARE OR REED
2 ALARM
3 TAMPER
4 TAMPER
5 ALARM
6 SPARE OR REED

altor

minder2009 wrote: »

ah thats brill altor thks a million. I was using 3/4 when i see I should have been using 2/5 for the blacks and joined the red in 1/6!
Another prob solved!:P

Your welcome, all easy with the right advice

minder2009

Thks again altor for all your knowledge and advice.

All working/ zones joined etc.

Couple of thgings i just wondered about.

What is a soak test , wahts the diff. from a walk test? Why would ya do it?

I asked ya about a dialler before u reckoned about 300 E. Would this be easy enough to set up on system with advice?

I have a smoke alarm in landing supposely wired in series with the one in kitchen and hall , all to go off when one activates, Missus burnt toast other morn , while the kitchen /hall activated the landing (most important partic at night) didnt. I was half thinking of wiring it into the panel.

Are most modern smoke alarms (220vsupply /batt supplied) suitable for alarm panels or is there a recommended specific one?

Thks

No panic on reply!

altor

Your welcome, good to here you have it all working now.

Soak test is used by engineers on zones that keep activating the alarm. I never use it myself as there is always a reason for a zone activating Applying soak test to a zone results in the zone becoming none reporting. When the system is set, the soaked zones activity will not activate the alarm system but the activation will be logged in the systems log. The zone returns to its normal status after a pre-determined period.

Smoke detectors should be on there own zone also. The ones I use are 12v EI Electronics Ionisation Smoke Detector. It can be connected to the alarm.

Yes, there are easy to set up with the right advice

minder2009

hi
have little problem! Had joined two zones together. Walk test all well.
however twice yesterday returned to house alarm was ringing. RKP showing there two joined zones(Z3) as activation. (on one occassion showed Gross '5' -Z3)

Before setting it last night , i took out the joined zone from z3 and put it back the way it was ...just back windows on this zone..Set alarm at 12mn and again it activated at 3 a.m. same zone.

There was no problem what so ever with this zone from the start.
I had presumed that the newly joined zone was causing the problem.-obviously not!
The resistor , is one I got new , tested it , it , comes back at 4.7.
Is there anything else I should check before I back track and re check all connections on the circuit.

thks

KoolKid

If you have access to a multi meter procede as follows.
Remove the EOL resistor and leave the zone closed.
Disconnect the zone from the panel and connect to the meter leads on a long length of cable.
Set meter to residence 200 ohms.
Make a now of the residence, now tap each sensor one by one.
The value should return to around the same level. It the reading stays higher disconnect and close of that sensor and continue to check all the others.Remember more than one may be faulty.
Replace any faulty sensors and reconnect to panel.Don't forget to reconnect resistor.

altor

minder2009 wrote: »

hi
have little problem! Had joined two zones together. Walk test all well.
however twice yesterday returned to house alarm was ringing. RKP showing there two joined zones(Z3) as activation. (on one occassion showed Gross '5' -Z3)

Before setting it last night , i took out the joined zone from z3 and put it back the way it was ...just back windows on this zone..Set alarm at 12mn and again it activated at 3 a.m. same zone.

There was no problem what so ever with this zone from the start.
I had presumed that the newly joined zone was causing the problem.-obviously not!
The resistor , is one I got new , tested it , it , comes back at 4.7.
Is there anything else I should check before I back track and re check all connections on the circuit.

thks

I would also be checking for loose cables in the sensors.

minder2009

Just to say had Altor out today , sorted all the problems in quick time , reasonable price. knows his stuff!

minder2009

RE: PiR's (x2) Open Zones.

System working fine till I tried to set it yesterday. Would not set showed 'open zones' on the two PIRS.Two Pirs on system one in kitchen other(new) on landing. I walked by both , red light didnt react to my presence on either PIR. Both On separate Zones , programmed correctly.

I had thought perhaps that the fuse blew on the power outlet form these in panel.

Low and behold , tried to set the alarm today and no problem.Both PIRS working and setting
.
Not happy now that a fault will not happen on the PIRS in the future as a result of this incident.

The only recent addittion to the panel is the 2nd PIR in landing , Its obviously wired correctly as both are now working.

What to DO!???:mad:

thundercatgary

minder2009 wrote: »

RE: PiR's (x2) Open Zones.

System working fine till I tried to set it yesterday. Would not set showed 'open zones' on the two PIRS.Two Pirs on system one in kitchen other(new) on landing. I walked by both , red light didnt react to my presence on either PIR. Both On separate Zones , programmed correctly.

I had thought perhaps that the fuse blew on the power outlet form these in panel.

Low and behold , tried to set the alarm today and no problem.Both PIRS working and setting
.
Not happy now that a fault will not happen on the PIRS in the future as a result of this incident.


The only recent addittion to the panel is the 2nd PIR in landing , Its obviously wired correctly as both are now working.

What to DO!???:mad:

It could be when you checked the fuse you might have seated it back into
position properly, it might have been loose. If you shorted the cable the
fuse would have blown. But at the end of the day just try it for a while ,
if it happens again there is a loose connection some where.

p.s was it the 12v fuse in the panel you checked

minder2009

Thks For your reply. I didnt open panel at all. didnt set day 1- set day 2!

Thks

Minder

thundercatgary

minder2009 wrote: »

Thks For your reply. I didnt open panel at all. didnt set day 1- set day 2!

Thks

Minder

there must be a loose connection in the panel ,
there is 12v + - terminals on the pcb board the problem is from there
to the pirs. If it was a problem with a loose connection on the pir it self
only one would switch off . its should be a easy fix

altor

I would of said the fuse has blown but since its working again it cant be that. If the problem happens again let me know and I will have a look at it for you.

minder2009

Thks to Altor for checking this problem. It has worked fine since. Quick return to fix problem without any quibble.:pac:

Wonderue

Hi Folks, just wondering can someone help? My went off the other day and now it just says 'Fuse' and the orange light is on. When i pressed the down arrow twice it says 'Hall Beam'. I opened the box with the fuses after reading some threads here and attempted to replace the all but they all seemed fine so now i'm not sure what the problem is. The Hall Beam doesn't light up like it normally would when you walk out in front of it. Any help would be appreciated. thanks.

altor

Wonderue wrote: »

Hi Folks, just wondering can someone help? My went off the other day and now it just says 'Fuse' and the orange light is on. When i pressed the down arrow twice it says 'Hall Beam'. I opened the box with the fuses after reading some threads here and attempted to replace the all but they all seemed fine so now i'm not sure what the problem is. The Hall Beam doesn't light up like it normally would when you walk out in front of it. Any help would be appreciated. thanks.

The fuse for the 12V must of blown, here is the fuse location F2

Wonderue

Thanks for getting back so quick Altor, i'm pretty sure i changed that one but i'll try it again and let you know. Cheers

altor

Wonderue wrote: »

Thanks for getting back so quick Altor, i'm pretty sure i changed that one but i'll try it again and let you know. Cheers

Your welcome,

If you are walking in front of the PIR while pressing the down arrow twice it will show up as open on the keypad. I would also check the other fuses in case one of theses is blown.

Wonderue

Do I need to reset the alarm after doing that? I've replaced the fuse but still no red light on the sensor in the hall. The yellow light is still on the panel and it says a number of faults like "230 Volt fail", "Power fail", "230V reset", "Bell Tamper" and more. Now i did cut the electricity to the house when i opened the panel like it said on the threads. Do i need to call somebody do you think?

altor

Wonderue wrote: »

Do I need to reset the alarm after doing that? I've replaced the fuse but still no red light on the sensor in the hall. The yellow light is still on the panel and it says a number of faults like "230 Volt fail", "Power fail", "230V reset", "Bell Tamper" and more. Now i did cut the electricity to the house when i opened the panel like it said on the threads. Do i need to call somebody do you think?

They would be issues that are easily fixed.
The power fail is just the mains off.
Have you a meter to test if you getting voltage from the supply to the pir?
Did you move the cable for the bell tamper?

Wonderue

No meter i'm afraid but i could probably get one if you reckon i should? I don't think i messed with any cables, do you mean in the box? I did open the sensor to see if there was a fuse in it that needed replacing. Sorry for all the questions.