Advice required for problem with PVC door catching on floor

Carlow52

The picture below show the top hinge on the door in question, which is fitted in a recessed ope

A laminate floor was fitted and the fitter 'cranked up' the hinge to the last to get clearance under the door.

The door has now sagged and is catching the floor at the front corner.

There is only 1" between top of door and the head of the recess.

The weather seal on the door is right on the outside edge so cutting a piece of the bottom of the door is not an attractive option.

How these hinge are adjusted would be useful to know?

Is it possible to take the hinge off the door without having the door off the frame?
Thanks

altor

Carlow52 wrote: »

The picture below show the top hinge on the door in question, which is fitted in a recessed ope

A laminate floor was fitted and the fitter 'cranked up' the hinge to the last to get clearance under the door.

The door has now sagged and is catching the floor at the front corner.

There is only 1" between top of door and the head of the recess.

The weather seal on the door is right on the outside edge so cutting a piece of the bottom of the door is not an attractive option.

How these hinge are adjusted would be useful to know?

Is it possible to take the hinge off the door without having the door off the frame?
Thanks

The top hinge looks like it has twisted, if you have a big pain of glass in the door you will need to toe and heal the glass. What this does is pushes the weight off the glass back up to stop it sagging. Any glazing company will do this for you. The hinges look like the door sits on them. You will have to lift the door off the hinges by releasing the screw that you see in the picture.

kitser

can you put up a pic of the door when closed from the inside. need to see the top of door and as much of the frame top as possible. also pic of door opened, where it hits the floor. need this pic to show the entire gap at bottom or lack of gap. i'll know better how to fix it then. could be just a toe and hole but not sure yet

Carlow52

Altor,
Many thanks for the insights here.

Googled the topic and found this link
http://www.lairdsecurity.co.uk/Datasheets/General%20Information/Toeing%20And%20Heeling.pdf

which is explained further by this text from another source

<<1/ To start with place your 6mm packers in the bottom hinge corner as per C and D in the picture, forming an 'L', you will have to silicone the vertical one in place to stop it falling down

2/ Place the DGU or pvc panel in the door on top of the packers, you will note it leans over to the right

3/ Get a glazing shovel and up in the top right corner push it in between the DGU or panel and the pvc, lever it over and put a 6mm packer 'B' in the gap, a blob of silicone underneath it will stop it falling to the bottom, this more or less should see the panel vertically level and equally spaced side to side, if not then thinner packers can be used for fine adjustments.

4/ Now comes the clever part and the last packer, using your glazing shovel push it in the gap on top of the panel, lever up on it and you make that gap bigger, lever it up till the diagonal weld on the door runs in-line with the weld on the door frame, now push enough packers in the gap 'A' so when you release the pressure on the glazing shovel the door doesn't drop.

5/ I find it best if you put the top packers in 90 degrees to the door so they poke out until you get the right amount in, try the door, make sure it locks and doesnt catch the bottom then fold/twist the packers in so they sit flat on the panel.

As for other packers elsewhere i would take up the gap over on the top left vertical, this stops the panel being pushed over when a burglar crow bars your door open, as well as that put packers level where the hooks or roller cams are, this will stop the pvc bending enough for the locks to disengage, more so roller cams. >>

Kitser wrote:can you put up a pic of the door when closed from the inside. need to see the top of door and as much of the frame top as possible. also pic of door opened, where it hits the floor. need this pic to show the entire gap at bottom or lack of gap. i'll know better how to fix it then. could be just a toe and hole but not sure yet

Will get the pics on Monday: door hits floor at lock side bottom corner only, the door has dropped on the lock side so will try the toeing and heeling and see what happens.

In passing, where to get a glazing shovel, or what else can I use, I have taken out DG panels before so know how easy is to chip them with the 36 " Gorilla bar?

johneym

sorry for hijacking but....is it then possible to raise a pvc door an inch or so? I will be putting down 1 and 1/2 inch insulation on the floor which will be a problem for the front door.
If it could be raised a bit it would be great.

Thanks a lot4

John

altor

johneym wrote: »

sorry for hijacking but....is it then possible to raise a pvc door an inch or so? I will be putting down 1 and 1/2 inch insulation on the floor which will be a problem for the front door.
If it could be raised a bit it would be great.

Thanks a lot4

John

If there is room at the head the door and frame can be raised. Alternatively depending on the door the door and frame would have to be cut to suit.

Carlow52

Just to close this off: did the job based on the ideas provided here and it worked well. Thank you

I got 5 mm clearance at the front of the door and the hinge in the original pic went back down quite a bit

altor

Carlow52 wrote: »

Just to close this off: did the job based on the ideas provided here and it worked well. Thank you

I got 5 mm clearance at the front of the door and the hinge in the original pic went back down quite a bit

Good to hear it worked