Eircom master line to network patch panel?

bro'

Hi
I have a Cat5e cable going from rear of Eircom master socket up to my attic where all my room faceplates have cat 5e cables terminated together in a terminal juntion box [see picture attached]. This is how electrician wired me up for telephone but as can be seen only 2 wires from the 8 are used.

What I want to do is take this a step further with a network structure.

As I already have all cables return to central area 'node 0' then I should be able to relocate my wifi router up to attic and using a patch panel and ethernet switch I can alocate data and voice over each room faceplate.

My question is with the single cat5e cable coming from the master socket, this must carry both phone and BB but what is best way to terminate this on the patch panel as I know the phone carries 50-75v and can damage network equipment if connected directly?
Should I find the master cable extension in the junction box and hard wire this to an adsl filter to split phone and data which can then be connected seapartely on the patch panel?
Is there something that is already available to do this or can someone calrify exactly what must be done?

Thanks in advance

sunnysoutheast

That should work, the way mine is set up is:

Eircom master socket
<-ADSL splitter
<-BB socket<-Netopia router<-Netgear switch<-patch cables<-patch panel<-faceplates<-computers
<-phone socket(<-double adapter)<-RJ11 cable<-RJ11/RJ45 converter<-patch panel<-faceplates<-RJ11/RJ45 converter<-phones

The router is set up as the DHCP server. You may not need the RJ11/RJ45 converters but I found some RJ11 connectors wouldn't sit right in some RJ45 sockets. You can also plug NAS drives etc. straight into the switch.

The phone only uses two wires - the middle two of an RJ45.

SSE

bro'

sunnysoutheast wrote: »

That should work, the way mine is set up is:

Eircom master socket
<-ADSL splitter
<-BB socket<-Netopia router<-Netgear switch<-patch cables<-patch panel<-faceplates<-computers
<-phone socket(<-double adapter)<-RJ11 cable<-RJ11/RJ45 converter<-patch panel<-faceplates<-RJ11/RJ45 converter<-phones

The router is set up as the DHCP server. You may not need the RJ11/RJ45 converters but I found some RJ11 connectors wouldn't sit right in some RJ45 sockets. You can also plug NAS drives etc. straight into the switch.

The phone only uses two wires - the middle two of an RJ45.

SSE

Thanks SSE ,Ive been away last 2 days .. .

Can I ask did you hard wire your adsl splitter or did to put an RJ11 or RJ45 connector on the cable from the master socket to connect to an adsl filter? Can you recommend an adsl splitter/filter for using?

Thanks

sunnysoutheast

bro' wrote: »

Thanks SSE ,Ive been away last 2 days .. .

Can I ask did you hard wire your adsl splitter or did to put an RJ11 or RJ45 connector on the cable from the master socket to connect to an adsl filter? Can you recommend an adsl splitter/filter for using?

Thanks

I've got the splitter Eircom gave me plugged in the front of the master socket (RJ11). I'd say your best bet might be to try and get another "master" socket to put on the end of your cable and plug the splitter into that?

Not sure if I've misunderstood you, let me know if so!

SSE

bro'

Hi SSE
So the current cat 5e blue/whiteblue connection at the back of master faceplate is unfiltered going up to my attic, then connect this to the same colour code wires of a DSL/phone splitter?


I noticed that if I plug the router DSL line direct into the Master Rj11 front socket i do not need a filter on it but do need a filter on it if connect a phone line to the master faceplate is this correct?

ST

Hi,

Is your Master Socket the same as the one in the photos at the start of this thread?

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=66898963#post66898963

If so the Broadband Splitter / Filter is already built into the Master Socket.

Modem into the Computer Socket, Phone into the Phone one.

Your incoming line should be connected into the Backplate (2nd & 3rd photos). All internal wiring should be connected to the connectors on the back of the faceplate.

The theory is, in the event of a fault, you can disconnect all the internal wiring by removing the faceplate and then test the incoming line by plugging a phone into the socket on the backplate, thus identifying if the fault is on Eircoms line or the internal wiring.

There are also connections for the Communicator of a Monitored Alarm panel on the back of the faceplate.

Would it be practical to fit the modem/router beside the master socket, and just send the network and voice signals up to the attic to a patch panel and network switch?

I have my modem/router in the attic and is a pain if I need to get up to reboot it or need to check connections. (Fortunately thats not very often :-) ).

Standard 10/100 Network wiring only uses 2 pairs of the 4 in the cable (usually the orange and green pairs) however Gigabit Network uses all 4 pairs.

If you're sending phone and network signals down the same cable it might be best to use separate sockets in the patch panel for phone and network. Terminate the blue pair in one socket for the phone, and the orange and green in a different socket for the network.

You could then fit faceplates with both RJ11 (phone) & RJ45 (network) Sockets on them in the different rooms. (I've seen these in both Maplins and B&Q but on closer inspection the phone socket is not an RJ11 but a BT style socket).

What about getting DECT phones and you can use the cables for network signals only. It would also give you the options of internal calls between handsets.

Good luck with your wiring.

bro'

ST wrote: »

Hi,

Is your Master Socket the same as the one in the photos at the start of this thread?

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=66898963#post66898963

If so the Broadband Splitter / Filter is already built into the Master Socket.

Modem into the Computer Socket, Phone into the Phone one.

Your incoming line should be connected into the Backplate (2nd & 3rd photos). All internal wiring should be connected to the connectors on the back of the faceplate.

The theory is, in the event of a fault, you can disconnect all the internal wiring by removing the faceplate and then test the incoming line by plugging a phone into the socket on the backplate, thus identifying if the fault is on Eircoms line or the internal wiring.

There are also connections for the Communicator of a Monitored Alarm panel on the back of the faceplate.

Would it be practical to fit the modem/router beside the master socket, and just send the network and voice signals up to the attic to a patch panel and network switch?

I have my modem/router in the attic and is a pain if I need to get up to reboot it or need to check connections. (Fortunately thats not very often :-) ).

Standard 10/100 Network wiring only uses 2 pairs of the 4 in the cable (usually the orange and green pairs) however Gigabit Network uses all 4 pairs.

If you're sending phone and network signals down the same cable it might be best to use separate sockets in the patch panel for phone and network. Terminate the blue pair in one socket for the phone, and the orange and green in a different socket for the network.

You could then fit faceplates with both RJ11 (phone) & RJ45 (network) Sockets on them in the different rooms. (I've seen these in both Maplins and B&Q but on closer inspection the phone socket is not an RJ11 but a BT style socket).

What about getting DECT phones and you can use the cables for network signals only. It would also give you the options of internal calls between handsets.

Good luck with your wiring.

Hi ST my master socket is the single port NTU [see attached pic i got from another post].
My main black eircom line has 2 wires connected to L1 & L2 on rear of master socket and then I have 2 CAT5e cables [ I assume one is for alarm? and other for phone/BB] with both having the blue/whiteblue connected to the L1 & L2 of the CCU faceplate in my picture attached.

As i only have the single port NTU M/S I dont think I can have the router downstairs. Also my attic is all floored and have the Stira steps so access is very easy.:)
I think I need to find the master extension line going to my attic junction box and as SSE says connect this to a DSL/Phone splitter then connect direct to the relevant room faceplate extensions.

By having the room faceplate extensions terminated to a patch panel i can change the port from a phone or data exchange easy enough but cannot be both as i believe you shoud not have both phone and data running on the same cat5e line.

It all sounds straight forward enough -I think:rolleyes:

ST

If you have a monitored alarm, the phone cable going to the dialler should be connected to the red punch down connectors on the back of the CCU face plate. (There should also be links cut on the bottom of the faceplate) This is to enable the alarm to seize the line and dial out even if a phone is left off hook or in use.

Is it possible that the second cable is for phone extensions downstairs?

You could run both over the one cable - while not recommended some people have done it successfully - http://www.zytrax.com/tech/layer_1/cables/mixed.html

http://www.instructables.com/id/Hack-your-House-Run-both-ethernet-and-phone-over-/

Since you've only the standard socket, SSE's idea is probably the best.

Good luck.

sunnysoutheast

bro' wrote: »

Hi ST my master socket is the single port NTU [see attached pic i got from another post].
My main black eircom line has 2 wires connected to L1 & L2 on rear of master socket and then I have 2 CAT5e cables [ I assume one is for alarm? and other for phone/BB] with both having the blue/whiteblue connected to the L1 & L2 of the CCU faceplate in my picture attached.

As i only have the single port NTU M/S I dont think I can have the router downstairs. Also my attic is all floored and have the Stira steps so access is very easy.:)
I think I need to find the master extension line going to my attic junction box and as SSE says connect this to a DSL/Phone splitter then connect direct to the relevant room faceplate extensions.

By having the room faceplate extensions terminated to a patch panel i can change the port from a phone or data exchange easy enough but cannot be both as i believe you shoud not have both phone and data running on the same cat5e line.

It all sounds straight forward enough -I think:rolleyes:

My only query would be the alarm, is it possible to contact the electrician to double check? Are both cables disconnected at the "loft" end?

Otherwise, this should be quite simple to do. You'll need a few tools though. Are the cables marked to tell you which cable goes where? If not you'll need a toner or to rig up a battery and bulb. You'll also need a punchdown tool and a line tester. Make sure your patch panels and modules are guaranteed compatible with RJ11 (phone) plugs (not all are, hence my adapters ). Maybe try and get yourself a small data cabinet, a 1U power block and a shelf is useful. Might be useful to get yourself a 8,16 or 24 port switch depending on how many outputs you will have, often it's only a little bit more for double the sockets. If you only have 2 or 3 then just use the router.

(Ignoring the alarm for now) run one of your cables to a master socket. Alternatively you could run this to port 1 on the patch panel BUT it's vital you don't plug any network equipment into it so mark it clearly!
All of the other CAT5 cable pairs are punched down to the patch panel and your modules - they will usually be colour coded. It doesn't really matter which scheme - A or B - you use but you have to use the same everywhere.
You then test each one with your line tester and, inevitably, will have to correct a few crossed wires.
When you're all done, plug your ADSL splitter into port 1 or the master socket. For internet an RJ11 cable goes from the splitter to the router.
If using a switch plug a patch cable from port 1 of the switch to port 1 of the router for DHCP (you won't need the router for anything else). Patch your switch/router to the network ports your want the internet in with patch cables.
For the phone plug an RJ11 cable from the phone socket on the splitter to the socket you want the phone going to, you can put doublers in if you want.

Think this what I did anyway, it's not too difficult but as ever with wiring etc. just take it easy and get a professional in if you're not sure.

SSE

bro'

sunnysoutheast wrote: »

My only query would be the alarm, is it possible to contact the electrician to double check? Are both cables disconnected at the "loft" end?

SSE

Hi SSE
I rang the electrician and whilst it is going back 3 years his initial thoughts are that the 2nd line was for the alarm although he is not sure ST got me thinking that it could be just another extension for the downstairs sockets and the other one rising up to the attic via the concrete Bisen slabs. I dont have phone watch alarm, just a stand alone alarm setup.
I have taken pictures of my actual master NTU socket attached where you can see the two cat5e joined together in silicon compound before terminating to the CCU faceplate.

I can get a hold of a punch down tool and data line tester , so this is good but as you say i would need a tone tester to help quickly decipher all 11 cables in my junction box in the attic.

I need to buy the patch panel, I think the router will do as only want 2 -3 data points for now and can upgrade to ethernet switch any time at a later date. I have a double socket available beside the existing attic junction box so covered there also. For the DSL splitter I was going to use an ISP supplied one with the RJ11 connector cut off one end so I can use an inline punch down coupler to connect to the master extension line.
As I need to move router to attic i will need to buy an Access point for downstairs so I can get WIfi again
My idea is to take a port connection from router to the faceplate downstairs and then just use a patch cable from faceplate to the acess point router to complete the connection?
Appreciate your comments and thanks for your help so far

sunnysoutheast

Where are you based? Maybe you can hire my toner for the week

Yes the wireless access point plugs in to an RJ45 socket. Maybe it's worth checking if your router can cover the WiFi before you buy one.

SSE

bro'

sunnysoutheast wrote: »

Where are you based? Maybe you can hire my toner for the week

Yes the wireless access point plugs in to an RJ45 socket. Maybe it's worth checking if your router can cover the WiFi before you buy one.

SSE

Your in the sunny south east and I'm in the Sunny [at least right now:p] North west!
My router is WIfi but I have to move it up to attic with patch panel etc and so no wifi signal downstairs with the block walls and concrete floors:(

Right as a sanity check and also for anyone else doing similar I drafted out my layout as i see it.

Comments appreciated.

sunnysoutheast

bro' wrote: »

Your in the sunny south east and I'm in the Sunny [at least right now:p] North west!
My router is WIfi but I have to move it up to attic with patch panel etc and so no wifi signal downstairs with the block walls and concrete floors:(

Right as a sanity check and also for anyone else doing similar I drafted out my layout as i see it.

Comments appreciated.

How did you know I was in the Sunny South....oh.

If you're using a switch all of the room plates will be patched through to that, you'll only need the router for DHCP.

11 cables isn't so bad, I had over 60 to do! You can maybe use a multimeter if you have one, just join one end of a pair and find the pair at the other end which has zero resistance.

Incidentally I find that it's the foil-backed insulation which kills wifi and GSM signals.

Good luck with it!

SSE

peterc14

I know this is an old thread but its exactly the problem I am faced with now. I am in the north so instead of Eircom it is BT....


Im in a new house and have wired all CAT5 to the attic with the intention of feeding them all into a 24 port switch and from the switch to BT Router (version 3).


BT made me install master socket at front door. Want to ask advice in the best way (ie to obtain optimum speeds and least interfernace etc) to connect the BT router to the master BT socket.


I have run a couple of CAT5s from the BT master socket to the attic. My intention was to extend the BT Master by connecting it to one of the CAT5s that run to the attic. Then connect this to the BT router that would be positioned in the attic. However from browsing the web I notice some people say that this will risk interferance and slow down speed by this method.


The other option would be to have the BT router at the BT Master socket (front door - would prefer not). Then connect one of the CAT5s (that I have run to the BT Master) to the BT Router and this will run up to the attic into the 24 port switch.

All advice/recommendations/opinions welcome.
What would be best?