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lense advice * totally puzzled*

  • 14-09-2010 6:17pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 21


    hi

    i have a canon 1000d but im looking to upgrade my lense , i take alot of photos in mondello and i find that my current lense (canon zoom lens ef 75-300mm 1 :4-5.6f) takes ages to focus and i cant get the clear sharp images i want .

    i have a budget of around 500+

    what sould i be looking for , i want something with a good zoom like what i have . and how do i know if a lense if good etc

    thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,511 ✭✭✭Old Perry


    Not sure if a new lens may be the answer to your problem but heres this anyways, http://www.pixmania.ie/ie/uk/155727/art/canon/ef-70-300mm-f-4-5-6-is-us.html, rear focusing USM delivers fast, silent auto focus. Hope this is'nt the lens you already have.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭pixbyjohn


    Have you tried manual focus yet ? You may well be surprised how it can improve your photos. Go on try it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 533 ✭✭✭blackbird98


    If you're not getting sharp images, is it a focussing problem, or a shutter speed problem? To get clear sharp images in the likes of Mondello you need a fairly fast shutter speed.

    Using the widest aperture possible to get a shutter speed of 250th / 500th of a second, or more, depending on light and speed of vehicles.

    Whenever I'm in mondello, if i'm shooting on a fast part of the track, I switch to manual focus, pre-focus on a particular part of the track and shoot when the vehicle enters to focus zone.

    bear in mind that a wide aperture will give you shallow depth of field. you could also increase your ISO, which will up your shutter speed


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 21 MrcValets


    i see where you are coming from here are some examples , i can only really get good shots on bright sunny days , when its over cast i can seem to get the shot i want , a big problem for me is the focus being so slow

    IMG_9305.jpg

    IMG_9418.jpg

    DSC_0136-1.jpg

    DSC_0215-1-1.jpg

    the 3rd and 4th pic where on a overcast day .

    all advise welcome

    thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 533 ✭✭✭blackbird98


    do you use a monopod / tripod?

    have a look at the metadata and see what your exposure settings are.

    stick them up here and we'll have a look


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 79 ✭✭goldseeker


    I could sugest Canon EF 70-300 f/4-5.6 IS USM
    It is about 450euro from ebay.Or on adverts there is one for 400 euro.
    Chears


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,204 ✭✭✭FoxT


    Per the EXIF data your shutter speeds are 1/125,1/100,1/250,1/250. The first 2 photos are about as sharp as I would expect to see at that shutter speed.

    This is a reasonable speed range for panning shots, but if you want absolute sharpness then

    - shoot at the widest possible aperture ( lowest f/number)
    - increase the ISO to get a shutter speed in the 1/1000 sec range

    I have a 70-300mm IS, you can see some pics I took with it here:

    http://bit.ly/bfLnWR

    (It is a great general purpose lens but I would prefer a wider aperture at the long end for sport photos. )
    When shooting sport I use Aperture priority, keep the lens wide open, and initially set the ISO to give a shutter speed to about 1/1000th. I continually monitor shutter speed. depending on light available I try to keep the shutter speed in the region of 1/1000th. If the speed drops below 1/500th I always go to a faster ISO. If I am at the max ISO then I put my camera away & light a fag. If the speed goes faster than 1/2000th I will reduce the ISO. This works better than shutter priority.

    I also use a monopod quite a lot. You don't strictly need one, but I find it helps.

    If you do not need to zoom as close as 300mm than I suggest you also look at the non-IS 70-200mm f/4 L lens, which is about the same price.

    Finally, for panning shots I will use shutter priority and let the aperture vary. Generally I have found that between 1/125 and 1/250 is a good start here. If they are too blurry, go for a faster shutter speed, too sharp, a slower one.

    I suggest you work on using faster shutter speeds before parting with your 500 quid!

    Regards,

    - FoxT


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,204 ✭✭✭FoxT


    ...I like #1 above - Nice one!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 21 MrcValets


    thanks for that great reply foxt .

    what metering mode should i use also?

    and here is a lense i was advised http://www.simplyelectronics.net/mainproduct.php?pid=646


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,511 ✭✭✭Old Perry


    Do a search on Simply Electronics before buying anything from them.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,204 ✭✭✭FoxT


    I generally use evaluative metering. Centre-weighted is probably OK too.
    If there are very bright highlights ( the front of the car on #1 , or, in my case, shooting players in white kit on a sunny day) Then I will set the exposure compensation to -1/2 a stop, and keep an eye on the histogram to ensure no blown highlights.


    Other settings
    - I always use 'Back-button AF' If the 1000D supports it, I recommend it. Basically you use a separate button to turn AF on & off. (Google it, otherwise I will be typing all night!) The shutter button has no impact on AF. It is a great feature because you can do stuff like
    *Prefocus on a certain spot then shoot away as your target approaches the spot.
    * Easier to fire up AF before you start shooting - gives the AF time to lock on the target. I prefer this to the 'press the shutter button half way' method
    * If somebody or something gets between you & the target then you can keep shooting but turn off the AF so the target is still in focus. This happens in soccer a lot, probably less so in motor sport.



    - I enable all AF points, but I mostly aim the centre AF point at the subject.
    - I use AI servo. In this mode, if you are shooting a moving target the camera will focus first using the centre AF point ( assuming the target is on this point) and if the target moves, it will 'hand off' the AF to other points as required. I find this works well with practice. To practice with it, You can try this on static subjects & move the camera around

    - I use continuous shooting mode. The 40D runs at about 6 frames per sec. At a soccer match I will generally shoot 400-1000 photos but end up with keeping only about 40-50.
    - I do not shoot RAW, only jpegs, because in RAW mode the frames per sec is much slower.

    That's as far as I've got!

    - FoxT


  • Registered Users Posts: 597 ✭✭✭Cook my sock


    when did you get rid of the d60?
    If you still had that I use the 55-200 in mondello and it does the job.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 21 MrcValets


    when did you get rid of the d60?
    If you still had that I use the 55-200 in mondello and it does the job.

    whos this?? got rid of it a while ago swapped my sister for her canon


    also did a serch on simply electronics . i dunno a friend has spent over 6k with them and never had one days trouble


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