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shower enclosures, the right materials

  • 03-10-2010 10:10pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 834 ✭✭✭


    in the process of fitting out the ensuite bathroom and have the 900x900 shower tray in the corner of the room with a small partition wall on the third side to enclose it on 3 sides. ill be putting a shower curtain up untill i can afford the door. my question is what materials do i need to use to waterproof the enclosure before i tile it. my main bathroom has suffered water damage due to a leaking rad but also because the tiles in the shower enclosure were just fixed straight to the plaster walls. is there a designated board that i can fix to the existing wall before tiling to ensure i dont have future problems from water damage.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,340 CMod ✭✭✭✭Davy


    Use the moisture board, its just the same as standard plaster board sheets. Its a darker colour green.

    You just tile directly on top of this. You can do different types regarding the tray, be it tanking or using a classi seal around the edge. You can also you a epoxy grout which is tougher that normal stuff put its more awkward to put in.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 834 ✭✭✭indie armada


    cheers davy, the tray has a lip on 3 sides. i presume the back of the lip is to be sealed to the existing wall and then the moisture board is fitted and sealed to the tray side of the lip sitting on the tray itself with the tiles then fitted to it. is silicone ok to use to seal the corners where the boards meet obviously takin care not to the silicone seep out onto the boards preventing the tiles sticking.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 834 ✭✭✭indie armada


    got a price of 17.50 per 8x4 sheet for the moisture board in my local merchants....is this about the right price, includes delivery.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,259 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Do you mean there's an upstand on the tray? If there is, then it just sits straight against the wall, and the tiles go over it to keep the water out. Same as Classi Seal or Aqua Strap


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    This is a common misconception around bathrooms. You do not need to do anything but tile it correctly

    Do not use grout in the corners or where the tray meets the tile.

    Use a good quality silicone.


    However if you want to bullit proof it so to speak you can go out and buy a tanking kit for about 80 euro. You tape the edges where the corner meets and you paint the whole wall.

    However like i said at the start....Its overkill....

    It would make far more sense to spend the 100 euro on a good tiler...


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 500 ✭✭✭King Mallie


    I defo agree with joey. Tanking is an excellent things but again if not done correctly can be useless.

    Spend a few euro extra and get a highly recommended tiler.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 834 ✭✭✭indie armada


    thanks for the info, so its ok to score the painted wall and fit the tiles directly to the existing walls, providing that the joints where the tiles meet in the corners and at the tray is siliconed propperly.
    when you tank an area do you need special tile adhesive to adhere the tiles to the tanked area


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    thanks for the info, so its ok to score the painted wall and fit the tiles directly to the existing walls, providing that the joints where the tiles meet in the corners and at the tray is siliconed propperly.
    when you tank an area do you need special tile adhesive to adhere the tiles to the tanked area

    Score a painted wall with rough sandpaper, no need to go too deep then use primer on the walls.

    No you dont need a special adhesive.

    Just use flex white wall adhesive and flexi grout.


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