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Remote Control Question

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«13

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    #2
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    As i had said to you on the electrical forum this big servo http://www.tonegawaseiko.co.jp/pro/e_pro02.html would work for the steering and a normal one for the throttle pot, both controlled from a radio controller,

    But that big servo cost is a bit prohibitive. But it might give others here an idea,


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    #3
    syl77
    Registered Users Posts: 446 ✭✭syl77


    How did the electronics handle the RC car, would they be able for the Tractor?, would there be any components worth transfering over?..
    Tx/Rx .... battery, motor, servos...etc....
    Other than that you are looking at what Robbie suggested....
    Best of luck......


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    #4
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Another servo the same make as that other big one is about 160 euro,
    http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/PS050.html

    Should be strong enough for steering but still expensive enough when you consider a radio system is needed as well.
    Our Mod on this forum might have some ideas, its an interesting one anyway.


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    #5
    coolwings
    Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 3,455 Mod ✭✭✭✭coolwings


    Looking at the photo, I'd be inclined to fit a metal rod from left to right side through the steering column, the rod protruding about 6" each side, rounded ends, and drilled near the tips
    Fit a sail winch servo in the body with a continuous loop of dacron cord round the winch and to the ends of the rod.
    The winch would then pull the operative side back and release the other side, a pull-pull system if you need to search online for a diagram.
    A sail winch servo has about 11 to 13kgs of torque, and about 9 to 13 inches of "draw", and this might be sufficient.
    The steering wheel above would have to be disabled, by cutting the steering column, and reattaching but with a free movement.

    Just my thoughts on one way to approach it.
    Let the ideas flow in and compare pros and cons I guess.


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    #6
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    coolwings wrote: »
    Looking at the photo, I'd be inclined to fit a metal rod from left to right side through the steering column.
    Fit a sail winch servo in the body with a continuous loop of dacron cord round the winch and to the ends of the rod. the winch would then pull the operative side back and release the other side, a pull-pull system if you need to search online for a diagram.
    A sail winch servo has about 11 to 13kgs of torque, and about 9 to 13 inches of "draw", and this might be sufficient.
    The steering wheel above would have to be disabled, by cutting the steering column, and reattaching but with a free movement.

    Just my thoughts on one way to approach it.
    Let the ideas flow in and compare I guess.

    Yea i thought of the sail winch type one or continous rotation type but i did`t think it would have that much torque, 13kg would`t be too bad on a small pulley on the servo pull-pull to a relatively wide rod. I have converted normal servo`s to continous ones as well before. But the average ones would not have the torque.


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    #7
    mtierney5
    Registered Users Posts: 109 ✭✭mtierney5


    coolwings wrote: »
    Looking at the photo, I'd be inclined to fit a metal rod from left to right side through the steering column, the rod protruding about 6" each side, rounded ends, and drilled near the tips
    Fit a sail winch servo in the body with a continuous loop of dacron cord round the winch and to the ends of the rod.
    The winch would then pull the operative side back and release the other side, a pull-pull system if you need to search online for a diagram.
    A sail winch servo has about 11 to 13kgs of torque, and about 9 to 13 inches of "draw", and this might be sufficient.
    The steering wheel above would have to be disabled, by cutting the steering column, and reattaching but with a free movement.

    Just my thoughts on one way to approach it.
    Let the ideas flow in and compare pros and cons I guess.


    All sounds good lads, anyone know someone who'd be willing to do it????


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    #8
    mtierney5
    Registered Users Posts: 109 ✭✭mtierney5


    I though a few pics of the old car might help, i'll try to strip it down a bit to get more detailed ones, maybe transfering stuff from this one might work....

    this is the under side anyway....


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    #9
    mtierney5
    Registered Users Posts: 109 ✭✭mtierney5


    this is what is under the seat....

    i think its a very basic system really, the whole car only cost €100 so it cant be too complicated or the parts too dear.


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    #10
    mtierney5
    Registered Users Posts: 109 ✭✭mtierney5


    this is the remote control, again a very cheap light plastic, but works fine...


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    #11
    mtierney5
    Registered Users Posts: 109 ✭✭mtierney5


    ok, this is under the bonnet/behind the steering wheel....

    if anyone wants pics of a specific part etc just ask...


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    #12
    mtierney5
    Registered Users Posts: 109 ✭✭mtierney5


    i think the black box behind the battery under the seat is the remote control reciever. Theres a single brown wire from it thats just strealled along the under body. An aerial i presume.

    Then there are three sets of wires leaving it, one set runs along the under body to behind the steering. it then branchs into two, 3 wires go to a switch for power on/off. two more go into the blcak box behing the steering wheel.

    The second set leaving the box behind the battery is also running along the bottom and goes straight in under the pedal that makes the car drive.

    The third set goes directly to the motor on the rear wheel which can be seen in the pic of under the seat.

    The car drives by the child pressing this pedal, but can be over ridden by the remote control.


    Hope this helps!


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    #13
    mtierney5
    Registered Users Posts: 109 ✭✭mtierney5


    this is the set up on the dash from the front and behind


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    #14
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    I myself think its probably better to start afresh with the new tractor, not using parts from the old one. The main problem is always going to be the steering. I think whatever happens, the new tractor would need to be got and looked at and see what can be done with it.


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    #15
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Another servo possibility for the steering. Id say that would work, so if you had the tractor and you can get all the bits i`d have a look at it anyway.


    Here is the unit, looks like a good possiblity to me, any other opinions?
    http://www.servocity.com/html/spg755a-bm_standard_rotation.html


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    #16
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    I have been looking at videos of that tractor and i dont see any reason it cant be done, you would need the tractor first, so we can see how to proceed, but it can be done i would think.

    A few euros of parts would be needed, i dont know exactly how much parts would be needed, the steering would be the bit that needs an extra bit of power in the motorised servo that moves the steering, but looking at the kids on the tractor in videos it seems very light on the steering, but that would become more clear if we had the tractor to look at. Another servo to use in place of the foot pedal, and also the forward reverse control, but these servos would be cheap. So thats my view on it anyway.


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    #17
    mtierney5
    Registered Users Posts: 109 ✭✭mtierney5


    this is the radio unit i have


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    #18
    coolwings
    Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 3,455 Mod ✭✭✭✭coolwings


    Should be fine.
    But if you put in one of those big high torque servos, they really suck power, so the little 4 x AA battery box for the blue receiver will have to be bumped up in size to a 4 x C cell battery.


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    #19
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    It will be a servo similar to the winch ones you mentioned in a geared drive id say, something like this, might not be too bad on the AA`s but the C ones are not a bad idea.

    The only thing about the 27 mhz is prone to interference from other radio control cars other kids might be using, Other than that it will work fine. Can try it anyway,

    Forgot servo photo, i will repost.


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    #20
    mtierney5
    Registered Users Posts: 109 ✭✭mtierney5


    robbie7730 wrote: »
    It will be a servo similar to the winch ones you mentioned in a geared drive id say, something like this, might not be too bad on the AA`s but the C ones are not a bad idea.

    The only thing about the 27 mhz is prone to interference from other radio control cars other kids might be using, Other than that it will work fine. Can try it anyway,


    I'll leave it up to you about the batteries but im living out in the country so interference should not be a problem...


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    #21
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    It will be a servo similar to the winch ones you mentioned in a geared drive id say, something like this,

    Image1.jpg
    Might not be too bad on the AA`s but the C ones are not a bad idea.

    The only thing about the 27 mhz is prone to interference from other radio control cars other kids might be using, Other than that it will work fine. Can try it anyway,


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    #22
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    mtierney5 wrote: »
    I'll leave it up to you about the batteries but im living out in the country so interference should not be a problem...

    Thats grand so, sure you can try it and see how it works, where will you be operating it, on a driveway at house? The ride on tractors and cars get better battery performance etc on hard surfaces than on grass for example.


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    #23
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    coolwings wrote: »
    Should be fine.
    But if you put in one of those big high torque servos, they really suck power, so the little 4 x AA battery box for the blue receiver will have to be bumped up in size to a 4 x C cell battery.


    The really big powerful servos i first linked have a seperate lead on them to connect to 12 lead acid batteries, i have never seen them myself, id say they would turn a real tractor.


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    #24
    mtierney5
    Registered Users Posts: 109 ✭✭mtierney5


    robbie7730 wrote: »
    Thats grand so, sure you can try it and see how it works, where will you be operating it, on a driveway at house? The ride on tractors and cars get better battery performance etc on hard surfaces than on grass for example.

    ya tarmac and footpaths mainly, maye on the lawn a bit too.... battery permitting i suppose!


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    #25
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    mtierney5 wrote: »
    ya tarmac and footpaths mainly, maye on the lawn a bit too.... battery permitting i suppose!


    yes it will run on the lawn alright, just better battery run time on the tarmac, easier on the drive motors etc, next you will be attaching a mower to the back of it and control it from livin room:D


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    #26
    mtierney5
    Registered Users Posts: 109 ✭✭mtierney5


    now theres an idea!!!!


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    #27
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    coolwings wrote: »
    Should be fine.

    Do you think them hitec digital servos etc will work properly with the 27mhz radio. Im not certain on that one myself.


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    #28
    coolwings
    Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 3,455 Mod ✭✭✭✭coolwings


    No problem.
    The signal coming from the receiver is the same for both types.


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    #29
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Would be interesting project anyway. The forward and reverse in the tractor is done electrically as well so if a 4 or 5 channel radio was used, the stick normally used for rudder could be rewired into a 3 position switch on the radio to give 3 positions on a servo to operate the forward 2 speeds and reverse on the tractor too.


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    #30
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    The tractor is here anyway, you probably got my email. The 2 speeds are done by swapping the 2 drive motors from parallel to series connected when the gear stick is moved. So we can do that with the radio controlled switches if i can get relays up to the job (30amp dpdt relays) if you want the 2 speed setup on the radio oand another switch can control another relay to reverse the polarity to the motors. Should be interesting.


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    #31
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Here is the progress on the tractor conversion to RC.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZLcRTeU2eI


    Control circuit designed for tractor modification
    tractordrivecontrolcircuit5smallerres.jpg

    relays.jpg

    Wiring temporarily in to do quick test
    relays2.jpg

    Relays temporarily in place to test radio control.
    relays3.jpg


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