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Terminating ceiling fittings

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  • 20-10-2010 11:59am
    #1
    Kaiblue
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1 ✭


    Hi,
    Couple of questions relating to a a new domestic house build. For the ceiling mounted fittings, lights, fire alarms, sensors, etc I am wondering do most electricians put in a back box or mounting box screwed to the joists or do you just clip the cables to the joists and pull down through the slabs. Basically, I am wondering if it is safe to assume I will have enough room in the fittings to loop in and out and also accommodate the switch wire or should I be giving myself some room above the plaster slab.
    I am not planning on using any recessed fittings. I know they are so popular but I do not like them because of the loss of thermal insulation and reduced sound insulation due to keeping insulation away from them. Where the fitting is between joists I plan to screw 2" by 7" timber across and pull the cables down through a 20mm diameter hole in this timber. This will allow a heavy fitting to be fitted in the future even if the original fitting does not need this strength.
    The build is my own. I am familiar with the ETCI regs and power theory through my work but I do not normally do installations.
    Also, where wall mounted fittings are used, what type of box is the cable pulled into at first fix stage? Does everyone just use a single back box as per the standard light switch? I have seen some done where the cable is just pulled down through the conduit and no box is used. The cable basically just sticks out through the plaster. I doubt this is considered good practice?


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    #2
    M cebee
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    loop-in to switches will simplify your lighting connections

    you'll have 1 t&e at each light,use 35mm back boxes for switches if possible


    the problem of thermal insulation and spots can be overcome by using

    -led downlights

    there are f-capped fittings suitable for covering with thermal insulation and also fire-rated spots for the fire-barrier if required

    part of the reason i stopped using halogen downlights is the massive amount of thermal insulation being specified and it's just not practical fitting trafos and halogens etc


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