Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

warehouse lights

Options
  • 22-10-2010 9:58am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 338 ✭✭


    At work we have an area with quite a low ceiling.

    We had a series of fluorescent bulbs but when they kept getting damaged by the forklift.

    I have removed several of them and put junction boxes in their place.

    If you loo at the attached pics, you'll see what I have done, but I wanted to know if its safe enough (heat etc) to put replacement fluorescent fittings on the side of the joists like is done with the emergency light shown in the pic.

    Should I use the encased units or am I safe enough using the standard fittings?

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 5,379 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    I can't see why it would cause a problem. I would probably use single tube fittings, as half the light will be lost if you mount a twin there.


  • Registered Users Posts: 229 ✭✭ShamFeen


    Generally the fluorescent fittings don't get that hot. My worry would be that you wont have the same light output in the area by turning the fittings and fixing to the side of the joists. If possible try fixing timber sheets (squares) as noggings between the joists and using some form of recessed lighting in the square. Of course there will be more of an expense involved, buying the fittings etc. Or fix the old fittings to the noggings, thus keeping them out of reach of the forklift


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    i would prob fit the corrosion proofs



    check your fittings for the F mark(in the triangle) anyhow-that'll tell they're suitable for mounting on a flammable surface


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    You could put wood cross pieces up between the joists and refit the same lights recessed between the beams, you could get 2x2 inch wood and put the cross pieces right up against the floor boards, and fit lights to these possibly.
    Or 4x2 to have lights a bit lower in between the joists.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    ShamFeen wrote: »
    Generally the fluorescent fittings don't get that hot. My worry would be that you wont have the same light output in the area by turning the fittings and fixing to the side of the joists. If possible try fixing timber sheets (squares) as noggings between the joists and using some form of recessed lighting in the square. Of course there will be more of an expense involved, buying the fittings etc. Or fix the old fittings to the noggings, thus keeping them out of reach of the forklift

    Just seen this after my post. i must start reading more:D


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 5,379 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    robbie7730 wrote: »
    You could put wood cross pieces up between the joists and refit the same lights recessed between the beams, you could get 2x2 inch wood and put the cross pieces right up against the floor boards, and fit lights to these possibly.
    Or 4x2 to have lights a bit lower in between the joists.

    That sounds like an even better idea. Also you could re mount all the fittings that aren't currently broken too.


  • Registered Users Posts: 834 ✭✭✭indie armada


    as allready stated if these fittings are prone to getting knocked corrosion proofs would be a better idea, if this is not possible then i would suggest shatter proof sleeves for the tubes themselves. having open fittings in a position where they can rain down glass and other toxic materials on people is not ideal.
    if you want to make them a little bit more robust to the odd knock then hang them using jack chain so they are level with the bottom of the joist, same idea as fitting them to noggins but gives them a bit of movement if they get tipped.


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    you could fit standard batton reflectors to the fittings, increasing their output, wire cages are also an option. The reflectors do make a difference to the output though and would help towards making up for the fact you've moved the fittings up.


Advertisement