HKC ALARM Installation

Light Buzzyear

Update: went back on-site today, and identified a loose connection on one of the EOL resistors that was intermittently giving a tamper fault only when the contact was open, which explains the symptoms. Open tamper diagnostic screen showed it up eventually after practically wearing the hinges off the unfortunate door. Re-wired the sensor just to make sure. Hopefully that's it, time will tell. All my own fault.

I had posted last night from memory that is was a HKC sensor, it wasn't, it was an Aritech slimline sensor that was put it due to size constraints. Aritechs have never been my favourite, and guess what? I like them even less now... :-)

Thanks for the pointers Altor and Thunderbird2, you were spot on. Greatly appreciated.

KoolKid

Glad you got it sorted.
It was probably the older Aritech GS610/611 sensors. They used a leaf switch for the tampers which were a very fine connection at times. The GS612/613 or the Newer GS710/711 where the pins on the lid make contact are much more reliable.

altor

Light Buzzyear wrote: »

Update: went back on-site today, and identified a loose connection on one of the EOL resistors that was intermittently giving a tamper fault only when the contact was open, which explains the symptoms. Open tamper diagnostic screen showed it up eventually after practically wearing the hinges off the unfortunate door. Re-wired the sensor just to make sure. Hopefully that's it, time will tell. All my own fault.

I had posted last night from memory that is was a HKC sensor, it wasn't, it was an Aritech slimline sensor that was put it due to size constraints. Aritechs have never been my favourite, and guess what? I like them even less now... :-)

Thanks for the pointers Altor and Thunderbird2, you were spot on. Greatly appreciated.

Good to see you got it sorted and thanks for coming back to let us know

Jmann123

Hi guys,
I'm new to this site
I've been looking for a simple diagram on how to wire up shock sensors.

I have three zones
Zone1 is 5 shock sensors with built in reed
Zone2 is 6 shock sensors with built in reed
Zone 3 is 4 shock sensors

I'm using a hkc 10/70 panel and hkc sensors but I can't seem to get my connections correct. I also have a 4core going from the panel to each zone

So say on zone 1 how do I connect up sensor's 1,2,3&4 for example and do I have to fit a resistor into sensor 5 and if so how???

I have looked on other treads for this but can't seem to find an answer
Thanks in advance
Appreciate sum advice

KoolKid

If your wiring with resistors ....



If no resistors copy example one with out the resistors for both the alarm & tamper inputs . Treat the sensor head and the reed as 2 devices & series in & out of each.

Jmann123

KoolKid wrote: »

If your wiring with resistors ....



If no resistors copy example one with out the resistors for both the alarm & tamper inputs . Treat the sensor head and the reed as 2 devices & series in & out of each.

Thanks a million for the quick reply.

So say im calling 1&6 my reed switch. 2&5 my sensor switch and 3&4 my tamper.
If im using red and black for tamper do i put the first red into 3 and the second red into 4 and join the backs together in a connector and at the last sensor put red into 3 and black into 4.????

And for shock and reed if im using blue and yellow do i follow the same principal as above so say join 1&2 together in every sensor witha piece of cable then put the first blue into 5 and the second blue into 6 and join the yellows together in a connector.....then at the last sensor put blue into 5and yellow into 6.

Again really appreciate the help

KoolKid

Your spot on. Your basically making the whole zone one big loop.
The same with the tamper.

Jmann123

Ah good listen thanks again for your help especially getting back to me on a Sunday. I'll try that out
Cheers

KoolKid

Your welcome. Any problems give me a shout.

Jmann123

KoolKid wrote: »

Your welcome. Any problems give me a shout.

Just on the last question I tried that out and it worked fine. Thanks for the help.
Just wondering is what i done best practice
Ie; i wrapped the black and yellow together and tapped them up
Should I have wired differently using resistors and if so how exactly do I wire it up this way??

KoolKid

Single or Duel EOL would be best practice. So would soldering & taping all joints.

Jmann123

KoolKid wrote: »

Single or Duel EOL would be best practice. So would soldering & taping all joints.

Cheers,
I got a soldering gun, made off all my joints and everythings fine.
Thanks for the advice

KoolKid

Not a problem, your welcome.;)

panoodles

How many MC sensors (reed & shock) can I get from one 6 core cable? What way should they be wired? They will be HKC sensors which I am adding to my already installed alarm.

I was hoping to be able to put 6 MC sensors on it, 4 windows, 2 doors?

KoolKid

The recommendation is 10 or less per zone. But as a rule the less the better.
You could break them up easily into 2 zones using dual wiring as described earlier.. (Or more if you want to get adventurous )

panoodles

Which wiring method would i use, went back over thread and unsure which method use.

My current alarm has no resistors installed. I just created a loop for the tamper?

KoolKid

Ideally the duel end of line for each as that will give you individual tampers for each zone. If your not too bothered on the tampers single end of line is fine also.

panoodles

Koolkid, thanks for help and speedy reply.

On a different alarm, hkc also, I am using wireless reed and shock sensor alarms, I have gross and pulse both set to 9. When I do a walk test and give the window or frame a small knock, alarm activates. How can I adjust them so they are not so sensitive, heavy rain would probably set them off!

KoolKid

Gross & Pulse of 9 is the least sensitive. 4 or 5 is the norm.

panoodles

Ya, but even wit both on 9, they are still way too sensitive.

Do I have to chage any other settings any were else. The panel recognised they're were inertia dectors. I just set them as alarm, was I ment do something with zone options, inhibit or double knock or something like that?

KoolKid

Are they false alarming.?
Why do you think they are too sensitive?

panoodles

When i do the walk test, i tip the frame or window, the alarm goes off for a second or so, which indicates it would go off with this force under full alarm??

Heavy rain would set it off the way they are now!!

KoolKid

Set your alarm and then test them.

panoodles

ok tanx ill test them this evening.

I am using an HKC Quatum 70 panel. For the outside bell, is it possible to wire it to the panel so that the LED's always light?

KoolKid

If you have a cable going to the external bell why not use a global wired bell?

panoodles

KoolKid wrote: »

If you have a cable going to the external bell why not use a global wired bell?

It came as part of a wireless kit,hkc quantum pack 2 . Want led b flashing all da time. I dont ave a wire ran yet, but I can if it would be a better job

fred funk }{

panoodles wrote: »

It came as part of a wireless kit,hkc quantum pack 2 . Want led b flashing all da time. I dont ave a wire ran yet, but I can if it would be a better job

You can connect 12vdc to the bell. You can power the bell locally if it's handier than running a cable to the panel. You'll also need to purchase a hkc rechargeable battery pack.

panoodles

if i run the 12 volt from the panel, will the panel battery be enough to supply both the panel and the bell in event of power failure??

KoolKid

Yes , sure the battery would have to able to handle a wired bell.

panoodles

Tanx again for all the help

When I set off alarm, if I press any key on keypad bell stops ringing for about 20 seconds, when it starts again I can press any key again to silence it.

Surely it should only stop when entire code is entered? How can I change this?

Also how can I reduce time between calls to assigned phone numbers. There is at least 2 mins between each call been received?

KoolKid

It silences to give you a chance to enter a valid code.

panoodles

thanks for the help. The alarm stopped silencing once the external sounder was fitted. i wanted to have all my testing done before connecting in external sounder!

Evolution1

Sensors have to be tested outside of engineer mode to get the most accurate result .

If you want you can get an extra battery pack to have the LEDs flash for up to three years .

If you wire to the external bell the LEDs will light but I think you have to remove the battery pack and use a rechargeable battery .

panoodles

ya, when i tested shock sensors in walk test mode, they would activate with slighest touch. Once tested on full arm mode they were functioning properly.

I wired a 12volt supply from panel and removed external sounder battery pack. The panel also has a rechargeable battery which will supply internal & external sounder in a power failure.

Evolution1

panoodles wrote: »

ya, when i tested shock sensors in walk test mode, they would activate with slighest touch. Once tested on full arm mode they were functioning properly.

I wired a 12volt supply from panel and removed external sounder battery pack. The panel also has a rechargeable battery which will supply internal & external sounder in a power failure.

There's nothing wrong doing it this way but its technically no longer a self activating bell . If the panel is knocked off the wall the bell will stop sounding .. But you'll get a text well in advanced so its nothing to really worry about

panoodles

Evolution1 wrote: »

There's nothing wrong doing it this way but its technically no longer a self activating bell . If the panel is knocked off the wall the bell will stop sounding .. But you'll get a text well in advanced so its nothing to really worry about

Is the way I configured it, how all wired external bells are wired, fed from a panel with a battery back up?

Evolution1

All self activating bells have a battery in them . If the panel is smashed or the cable is cut the bell will still ring .

The hkc rf bell will sound if there is a break down of RF communications ( like cutting a wire for the wired bell )
The battery pack that's located in the HKC rf bell is what keeps it going .

If you don't have the rechargeable battery in the HKC RF bell when the 12v wire is cut then the bell will stop sounding .

paulfitzg

Hi everyone. Thanks for an excellent forum, learned a lot so far.

I am installing a HKC 10/70 but have run into a problem wiring up MC sensors. I am trying to wire 5 HKC MC sensors on a signle zone but it is showing as open. I have attached a wiring diagram if anyone has a few minutes to look at if for me.

Thanks

Paul.

altor

paulfitzg wrote: »

Hi everyone. Thanks for an excellent forum, learned a lot so far.

I am installing a HKC 10/70 but have run into a problem wiring up MC sensors. I am trying to wire 5 HKC MC sensors on a signle zone but it is showing as open. I have attached a wiring diagram if anyone has a few minutes to look at if for me.

Thanks

Paul.

Hi Paul, diagram looks good.
A few things to check.
Zone hardware for the zone is set to DEOL.
Magnets are lines up with the reed correctly.
Sensor head on HKC sensors has an arrow, this needs to point upwards.

paulfitzg

Hi Altor,

Thanks for replying so quickly. I have checked the three things you suggested and am still getting open when trying to set the zone.

1.All sensor heads are pointing upwards
2.Magnets are correctly aligned with reeds
3.Zone set to D-EOL 4k7

Paul

altor

paulfitzg wrote: »

Hi Altor,

Thanks for replying so quickly. I have checked the three things you suggested and am still getting open when trying to set the zone.

1.All sensor heads are pointing upwards
2.Magnets are correctly aligned with reeds
3.Zone set to D-EOL 4k7

Paul

I would check for a loose connection on the alarm loop if it is showing the zone open but not the tamper.

paulfitzg

Hi Altor.

You are a life saver. While I was checking the wiring I decided to double check all the sensor heads again (only having checked them all 5 minutes ago) and would you believe one was pointing the wrong way.

Thanks for your help - sometimes you just need someone else to encourage you to check the obvious

Paul.

paulfitzg

Hi Altor,

I have one more question for you if you don't mind. I have six core cable and would like to run three zones on the one cable. I can't figure out how to augment my diagram to include three zones using a common black? I am using all HKC MC sensors.

Paul.

altor

paulfitzg wrote: »

Hi Altor,

I have one more question for you if you don't mind. I have six core cable and would like to run three zones on the one cable. I can't figure out how to augment my diagram to include three zones using a common black? I am using all HKC MC sensors.

Paul.

Always happy to help Paul.

Something like this?

emmetg

hi all i was woundering about wiring up PIRs 4 in a line on one zone useing the 1070HKC alarm panel can some one post up a drigam for me off how to do this thanks

KoolKid

Its not the recommended procedure.
Why do you want them all on the one zone.?

emmetg

i was told that there is a zone point id were you can wire the all in one the its the the way the house was wired up years ago so i got the 1070 panel
would you have a drawing on how to do this kollkid
any help would be great

KoolKid

You will need Point ID sensors .
You connect them all in parallel all the + together
all the - together & all the data together.
The + & - connect to aux power & the data connects to a zone set as point ID.
I'll PM you the manual that will help you more.
When you say the house is wired for this how do you mean?
Is there just one cable feeding all the PiRs?
Have you perimeter protection as well?
2 things I would say here. PiRs without perimeter protection with contacts and sensors is not much use. Someone has to have gained entry to your home before the alarm activates.
Secondly, Point ID would not be my first choice, I have had many issues with them.
If you can explain the wiring configuration to me I'll see if there's another option available to you.

emmetg

cool look forward to getting the manual koolkid
so do i under stand that the only pir that will work must be hkc point id ones coz i just pir from the holesale but thay are not hkc will it still work ?

KoolKid

They won't work as point ID , the way you asked.
What is the wiring configuration? That way I can tell you how you can wire them .