HKC ALARM Installation

emmetg

could you tell me should the tampers not be linked to gather with the rest of the contacts and sensor I was looking at this diagram
ALTOR DUAL PLUS SINGLE WIRING.pdf
I all ways belived the tampers were separated
can you show me a link or diagram koolkid
again thanks for your help

KoolKid

That diagram is for sensors. You can put multiple sensors on the one zone. You should not do this with PiRs. Thats why I have asked what's the wiring configuration you have for the PiRs you want to install.
If you tell me this I can help you with the best way to wire & install the PiRs you have.
Its a pity you have a HKC panel, with others you can bring zones back on a single cable , giving you the option to wire up to 4 PiRs fully tampered on a single 6 core cable.

emmetg

I have a 6 core cable going to the windows koolkid and 2 6 core going to pir so for the windows I got shock reed contacts sensors but looking at the diagram I see you are only using 2 core for the lot ?
could you send me a diagram on wiring up the tamper as well as the sensors/reed I think It should take 4 core should it not
or can I use the 2 core in the diagram above ?

KoolKid

So is it a 6 core feeding the pirs & onto the windows?
If so how many PiRs is this cable feeding?

emmetg

no 6 core supplying the pirs and 6 core supplying the windows two different runs im just wondering which way to wire the windows using both the tampers and zone the diagram above only shows two core doing both the contacts and tampers i.e. no tampers wired in back in the panel
could you show me a diagram for this
thanks for any help

KoolKid

The easy way for the sensors is to forget about the resistors and wire one pair in series for all sensors & contacts and a second pair in series & wire into the tamper for that zone at the panel.

So, on the PiRs, how many PiRs are you wanting to put on that 6 core cable?

altor

emmetg wrote: »

no 6 core supplying the pirs and 6 core supplying the windows two different runs im just wondering which way to wire the windows using both the tampers and zone the diagram above only shows two core doing both the contacts and tampers i.e. no tampers wired in back in the panel
could you show me a diagram for this
thanks for any help

Wiring more than one PIR on a zone will work but it is not recommended.
The problem is more so with trying to isolate and leave some on if they are on the same zone.

You could use Point ID PIRs. That would solve the issue as you can have 10 on a 3 core cable and still be able to set up different settings for each one.

emmetg

so ive wired me hkc alarm 1070 panel up and ive just switched power on and set the alarm but when i open the door or window it dose not set the alarm off
can some one tell me why this is ill add a attchment of the way i wired the windows and door
https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/231647/132480.pdf
do i have it rite or do i have to set up some progame in the menu
can any one help
looking for a fast reponse thanks

KoolKid

If you select show open zones do they show up there?

kub

emmetg wrote: »

so ive wired me hkc alarm 1070 panel up and ive just switched power on and set the alarm but when i open the door or window it dose not set the alarm off
can some one tell me why this is ill add a attchment of the way i wired the windows and door
https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/231647/132480.pdf
do i have it rite or do i have to set up some progame in the menu
can any one help
looking for a fast reponse thanks

Have you programmed the individual zones which you have wired according with your attachment to dual 4k7?

Its in Zone Hardware in the Zone Menu.

emmetg

ive just set them now as dule EOL 4k
can you tell me shoule the front door be set up as single EOL as its only one sensor on the door also how do I set the alarm to give me 30 sec to leave the house coz when I set up the alarm it goes off rite away and program the PIRs to be on full fullgaurd or half guard

emmetg

I THINK TO STOP THE ALARM FROM GOING OFF I MUST SET THE ZONES UP TO ENTERY/EXIT FRONT DOOR AND THE PIR IN SIDE THE FRONT DOOR THEY ARE ON TWO DRIFFENT ZONES COULD THIS BE RIGHT ?
ANYBODY

KoolKid

Front Door needs to be entry exit. The PiR needs to be access.

emmetg

ok that's great thanks koolkid
just ned to figure out how to do that

KoolKid

Set zone type as Alarm, in zone options set Access to Yes.

emmetg

so ive wired up the alarm and all seems to be good except one thing on one of the zones I have 4 contacts/reed/sensors and when I done the walk test everthing worked but the first two contact/reed/sensors on that zone the last two worked fine and im not sure why dose anyone have any ideas ?

KoolKid

While in walk test disconnect and close off each device one by one. Then open the pair for the sensor and see if it activates, then the same with the pair for the contact. If that works reconnect and test again.

Jmann123

Hi,
Quick question...
I have a hkc sabb and I wanted to install it in a house as a dummy box. There is an existing alarm panel (prob 20 years old in house) and am wondering how I could connect it in so I'll get the flashing neon lights on the bottom of the sabb to work.
Will it light up if I just connect 12volts from panel into sabb connections

Thanks in advance
Johnny

KoolKid

Yes just give it +&- 12volts.

BowWow

Using my HKC Securewatch a year now with no issues. But lately its going off during the night. Could be an hour after setting or six hours after setting. When I say going off, its the E/E zone (front door) thats starts beeping for the 30 second countdown.
Initially I thought it was breeze shaking the door, but its also happening on quiet nights.
Replaced the magnetic contacts with a spare, but no change.
Anything else I could try?
Thanks.

JonKelleher

KoolKid wrote: »

Thats why I asked what cable is feeding those windows.
If its 6 core or more your could still wire all 5 on individual zones.
More reliable IMO, and there would not be much extra in the cost.

Chuck Norris I think.

kub

BowWow wrote: »

Using my HKC Securewatch a year now with no issues. But lately its going off during the night. Could be an hour after setting or six hours after setting. When I say going off, its the E/E zone (front door) thats starts beeping for the 30 second countdown.
Initially I thought it was breeze shaking the door, but its also happening on quiet nights.
Replaced the magnetic contacts with a spare, but no change.
Anything else I could try?
Thanks.

When you say you changed the magnetic contact, did you replace the wired section or the magnet?
So you have any other detector on this zone?

Do you have engineer access to your system?

BowWow

Replaced both parts of the magnetic contact. Wired side and magnet.
Yes there is also a shock sensor on the door.
Yes, have eng access.
Thanks.

kub

BowWow wrote: »

Replaced both parts of the magnetic contact. Wired side and magnet.
Yes there is also a shock sensor on the door.
Yes, have eng access.
Thanks.

Ok from here i would suspect the shock sensor, you hardly have a spare have you?

BowWow

No, but will get one Monday and try it. Thanks again for your help.

altor

BowWow wrote: »

No, but will get one Monday and try it. Thanks again for your help.

In many cases you can disconnect the shock part of the sensor and just have the reed working. This will also rule out if it was the shock part of the sensor activating the system.

Jodel

Hi,
I have installed a HKC 812 and it has been working fine for the last few days. However I am now getting "No RPK Comms " error on the key pad and a constant amber light. I have checked the continuity of all the wires between keypad and main board and they are OK. I have now moved the keypad near the control panel and temporarly wired it up with a short wires and still the problem persists.
The red led on the panel is unlit. There is power to the board.
Could the main board be faulty?
Jodel

Jodel

Sorry, forgot to mention, I tried another key pad and still same problem.

fred funk }{

More than likely a cable problem.

mickjohnlong

Did you try both keypads on the short bit of cable

Jodel

Yes I did and I am certain that 1 is connected to 1 etc up to 4 -4. Wire is a foot log and each wire and connection checked for continuity with a multimeter.

KoolKid

Just to be sure have you tried connecting each keypad directly on its own.
Also is there anything else on the keypad bus, like an expander.

Jodel

No. There are no extras added - it is just a standard control panel.
Just wondering if the red LED in the middle of the board is any help? I recall seing it flash before but now it is off. What is it for?

KoolKid

That sounds like a comms issue. Have you tried powering the panel down completely and powering up again.

Jodel

Yes. I have powered it down, disconnected the battery and repowered it several times.

KoolKid

If your 100% on the wiring being correct I would say its the PCB on the panel.
To be 100% I'd connect those keypads to another panel and see if they work ok.

Jodel

Both keypads were new out of the box and both behave the same. I suspect the PCB also. I do not have access to another panel to test the keypads so I will have to go back to to supplier for a replacement panel. Thanks for the help.

KoolKid

Your welcome. Let us know how you get on.

altor

Jodel wrote: »

Both keypads were new out of the box and both behave the same. I suspect the PCB also. I do not have access to another panel to test the keypads so I will have to go back to to supplier for a replacement panel. Thanks for the help.

Could be a device attached to the system pulling it down.
I would disconnect all bells, battery and any powered devices to rule that out.
Failing that it has to be the board itself.

Jodel

Changed the PCB in the control panel to a new one and the problem is solved.

KoolKid

Had an idea that was the problem. Glad all is good now.

Light Buzzyear

Hi guys,

I've encountered some intermittent "Code Tamper" faults on a number of SW812s with GSM diallers.

In each case the keypad will be beeping and a text alert will be sent. Neither the internal or external sounders is triggered. Entering the user code cancels the "Code Tamper" fault.

This happens typically every 1-3 months. I've seen this on three separate (but identical spec) units, from two different installers. There is no obvious or known reason for the "Code Tamper" fault, e.g. works being carried out on the system, a sensor or component being hit, vibration close to any alarm component.

By chance I happened to be close to one of the keypads with the alarm system was unset when it started beeping and a tamper code being recorded.

It's relatively minor nuisance in the greater scheme of things, but I'd like to get to the bottom of it and haven't been able to figure it out.

Any suggestions as to what might be causing it, known failure modes, firmware bugs or fixes, would be greatly appreciated.

LB

altor

Light Buzzyear wrote: »

Hi guys,

I've encountered some intermittent "Code Tamper" faults on a number of SW812s with GSM diallers.

In each case the keypad will be beeping and a text alert will be sent. Neither the internal or external sounders is triggered. Entering the user code cancels the "Code Tamper" fault.

This happens typically every 1-3 months. I've seen this on three separate (but identical spec) units, from two different installers. There is no obvious or known reason for the "Code Tamper" fault, e.g. works being carried out on the system, a sensor or component being hit, vibration close to any alarm component.

By chance I happened to be close to one of the keypads with the alarm system was unset when it started beeping and a tamper code being recorded.

It's relatively minor nuisance in the greater scheme of things, but I'd like to get to the bottom of it and haven't been able to figure it out.

Any suggestions as to what might be causing it, known failure modes, firmware bugs or fixes, would be greatly appreciated.

LB

A code tamper on the GSM is the wrong code being texted to the GSM.
This usually happens if the service provider sends a text of a promotional offer. This can be turned off with your provider so you don't receive these texts.

Light Buzzyear

Cheers Altor. I've contacted the telecoms SIM provider and have done as advised. I'll keep an eye on it over a month or two and let you know how it goes. Much appreciated. Thanks. LB

altor

Light Buzzyear wrote: »

Cheers Altor. I've contacted the telecoms SIM provider and have done as advised. I'll keep an eye on it over a month or two and let you know how it goes. Much appreciated. Thanks. LB

That should sort it for you LB.
Any other issues let us know

SharkTale

Hi,

Just a quick question, I have had a new window installed and had to remove the previously fitted magnetic/shock sensor.
I wish to now install a HKC shock sensor where the previously magnetic/shock sensor was, but I just can't seem to get it to work.
The wiring on the old sensor was:

1. Pin 1 Link
2. Pin 2 Link
3. Pin 3 blue wire Tamper
4. Pin 4 Yellow wire Tamper
5. Pin 5 Yellow wire sensor
6. Pin 6 Black wire Feed Spare

I have removed the link wire from pin 1&2, and reconnected the wires to the new HKC shock sensor as above, but in engineer mode it shows the zone open. I am at a loss to what it might be, when I reconnect the old sensor it works fine with no "Open zone"
The old and new sensors look identical with the exception of the magnetic reed contact on the older sensor.

Any help would be very appreciative,

If I get the shock sensor working on its own, can you also tell me how to run/connect a cable from the shock sensor to also run to the magnetic/shock sensor on the second section of the new window

Thanks in advance.

John Kelly of

when you say pin link do you mean 1 and 2 were linked together with a piece of wire?

SharkTale

Thanks John,

Not sure on your reply,

What I have is on the original shock & read sensor:

1. Pin 1: Reed/Spare Link wire
2. Pin 2: Sensor - Link Wire
3. Pin 3: Tamper - Blue wire
4. Pin 4: Tamper - Yellow wire
5. Pin 5: Sensor - Red Wire
6. Pin 6: Reed/Spare - Black Wire

Pin 1 & 2 on old shock/read sensor joined with a piece of wire.

I have connected new shock only sensor - removed the link wire on pin 1 & 2. and connected the blue, yellow, red & black wires to terminal/pin 3,4,5 & 6 respectively. And it shows zone open.

I have refitted a 2nd (different) shock/read sensor and this also works fine like the original sensor.

Hope this makes sense.

Thanks in advance

John Kelly of

the new sensor you have is shock only so the 2 outer terminals marked reed/contact are redundant in that one.
the alarm circuit is the red and black and the tamper circuit is on the blue and yellow.
put the blue and yellow wires into the middle 2 terminals (marked tamper) like before but now put the red and black wires into the terminals marked sensor. Leave the outer terminals empty as they are not working as your new sensor is only a shock sensor.
terminal 1 empty
terminal 2 black
terminal 3 blue
terminal 4 yellow
termianl 5 red
terminal 6 empty

SharkTale

John Kelly of wrote: »

the new sensor you have is shock only so the 2 outer terminals marked reed/contact are redundant in that one.
the alarm circuit is the red and black and the tamper circuit is on the blue and yellow.
put the blue and yellow wires into the middle 2 terminals (marked tamper) like before but now put the red and black wires into the terminals marked sensor. Leave the outer terminals empty as they are not working as your new sensor is only a shock sensor.
terminal 1 empty
terminal 2 black
terminal 3 blue
terminal 4 yellow
termianl 5 red
terminal 6 empty

Thanks John, tried over the weekend and all is working now.

many thanks again