Giving up rescued dog

daisling

Hi please help! I rehomed a 5 month old dog in Feb this year from a rescue home. She has grown and grown since. She is so strong that she pulled me over when walking her last month and I sprained my ankle I am afraid to bring her out now. She chews everything and this evening ate the fence between my neighbours garden and mine. It is just me and my 8 year old at home. I love her and she is a lovely dog who loves playing. This is killing me because she has no quality of life with me hobbling around on a walking stick. I dont want her to be stuck in the back garden but don't know when I will be able to walk her.

ISDW

The title of your post says 'giving up rescued dog', but in your actual post I don't know what you're asking of people. Do you want help in exercising her, or do you feel that you need to return her to the rescue you got her from?

I would suggest that you phone them and talk to them about the situation.

What breed is she? Have you tried a dogmatic halti type collar on her? Or there is a type of harness that you can get that helps to stop dogs pulling on the lead. I can't remember the name of it - sensible, or something like that, but I know that the wagging tail in Dunboyne sell them, and I think Dog Training Ireland in Blanchardstown do as well.

the_syco

How about a choke collar? Have walked strong dogs with it in the past, when I was younger. I think it restricts their breathing when they drag you, and slows them down, as they run out of breath.

TooManyDogs

What most people don't realise is that dogs don't naturally walk nicely on the lead, it's rare for anyone to get a pup that walks well on a lead without any training. Lead training is included in all basic training a pup needs so you can definitaly change this aspect quite quickly.

Where in the country are you? Someone will probably know of a good class near you. The chewing is due to age and will ease but keeping her stimulated with toys like kongs, learning tricks and exercise will make a huge difference.

TooManyDogs

the_syco wrote: »

How about a choke collar? Have walked strong dogs with it in the past, when I was younger. I think it restricts their breathing when they drag you, and slows them down, as they run out of breath.

Choke chains don't work in place of training, and mainly they just damage a dog's throat. I've seen plenty of dogs drag their owners down the street with a choke chain on! Really training is your only man

adser53

As ISDW said, I'm not entirely sure of the purpose of your post? Are you looking to rehome the dog or advice on walking it? My mam is a small woman and we had a very strong Red setter growing up that she couldn't walk without being pulled down the road. Having dealt with it before (and with my own 2 big dogs now) I would really reccommend a dogmatic headcollar for the dog as it gives you much greater control when your walking, without causing it any discomfort, in conjunction with treats/rewards etc when they walk well. If the dog pulls, just stop dead in your tracks. The dog will eventually realise that pulling means they get nowhere as you always stop. In saying that, this won't happen overnight so you have to be patient and not lose your rag with the dog.

the_syco wrote: »

How about a choke collar? Have walked strong dogs with it in the past, when I was younger. I think it restricts their breathing when they drag you, and slows them down, as they run out of breath.

Personally, and a lot of people would agree with me (IMO), that choke collars aren't a solution as they are uncomfortable, cruel and don't teach the dog anything. It's no different than walloping your dog whenever they pull and in the OP's case, I can't see it helping. This is just my opinion but in 99.9% of cases, postitive reinforcement and a halti/dogmatic headcollar work better than a choke collar and/or negative reinforcement.

LucyBliss

We have a dog who was a maniac on the lead when he was a pup. It wasn't fun walking him because he'd drag you half way across the country. Finally, I got one of those slip leads so it was easier to direct him. It's not a magic solution (unfortunately!) and it did take some practise but he's so much better now, it's actually a delight to be out with him instead of a chore.

I wouldn't go with choke chains myself, to be honest.

The Sweeper

If she was 5 months in Feb she's now just over a year old - 13-14 months (lookit me with da SUMS!). It's a problem with adopting a rescue muttski - it's unclear how large the finished dog will be. (I'm on 20.1kgs on his six month birthday with mine.)

A dog that age with high energy will be high maintenance while you can't walk her and I can appreciate you're feeling a bit strung out - especially if you're trying to manage your daily life on crutches. But think - there will be an end in sight!!

What you have to do in the meantime is try to survive the period of time it takes you to heal. I'm going to throw some suggestions out there and we'll see if you think you can manage them, or if others think they are a good idea.

First, no more dinner. Stop feeding your dog. She no longer gets a free lunch - from here on out, she has to work for every single piece of food she eats in a day. It's pointless opening a tin or pouring out a cup of kibble into her bowl in the kitchen in the morning and then putting her out in your yard - because all you're doing is giving her the fuel she needs to wreck the yard! You need kong toys, but raid local oxfam or second hand store for some old crockery - big heavy bowls and such like.

For breakfast: put some of breakfast into a kong, (I feed my guy raw so his kong gets raw beef mince or raw lamb mince, which packs in nicely) or into more than one kong. If you feed dry kibble, dish it out in little heaps in the yard and cover each heap with a bowl or a cup, so your dog has to work out how to get to it. Scatter a cup of kibble through the grass if it's a dry morning and you don't have time to do anything else.

If your dog's a digger, consider a sandpit. I'm seriously considering this for my dog, who is digging obsessed:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs412.ash2/69010_1552688092082_1081557036_31595356_3828124_n.jpg

I saw that on another dog-related forum the other day and it was like a light went on in my head! I have the space for it, but it means that on a day where I'm out at work all day for eight plus hours, my guys toys and his food can go into a sandpit like that and he can dig to his heart's content and get the food or toy reward for his efforts (and he'll leave my garden alone)!

It's very possible that you could achieve something similar without needing to build such a construction - dig a hole, fill it with sand, hide things in it, VOILA!

Chew toys are a must for a dog who's going to be stuck inside. Kongs are all well and good, but I found big success with other heavy rubber toys as well. I have this 'morningstar ball' - a round rubber ball covered in rubber spikes. It's the best chew toy - gives the gums a great massage as he gnaws it over. He also adores his rope - one of those knotted rope toys, about a foot long. Simplest toy ever, but EXTREMELY popular and gets maximum use.

Does your dog fetch or chase a ball? Even in a small yard, a game of fetch can help to exercise her and stimulate her mind - you could even bring out a chair and sit on it to save your ankle. If she does it naturally, great - if not, then teach her to do it. Have a big bag of treats (remember she works for ALL of her food) and reward her as she returns the fetch toy.

My guy is a major destructo-chewer, and I find that, if supervised, he gets FANTASTIC mileage out of an empty two-litre coke bottle. Has to be the sculpted coke zero bottle, because the cheap soda bottles aren't as strong. I take off the cap and the ring around the cap so he won't choke, and take away the label, then give it to him. He's like a trash compacter - the bottle is reduced to a plastic stick basically. The plastic is seriously heavy duty - he can't chew bits off it, so no choking hazard again - he just chews and gnaws until the bottle is basically flattened and crumpled, at which point I take it off him and throw it in the recycling.

A few times a day, while my dog is in the house, I engage in 15 minutes of training with him. Sit, lie down, stay, come, in various orders - also crawl, give the paw, and leave the treat until he's told he can have it. Treats and praise are key, but it's really NOT an effort - you're sitting down, the dog's doing all the work, and you can do it in the middle of doing something else. Helps grow the bond with your dog too.

Once you're back on your feet, literally, look at head collars and chest harnesses made specifically for dogs who pull, so you can find one that fits your dog and you can still walk her. One word of advice about anti-pull devices - don't use them with a short lead. If you put an anti-pull device on a dog and then have a short lead too, half the time on the walk the length of the lead will cause you to trigger the dog's anti-pull device because YOU will be tugging against THEM - e.g. if you want to change direction or somesuch, you have no give between you and the dog because of the shortness of the lead, and hence you're the one who triggers the 'correction' when the dog wasn't actually doing anything wrong.

But don't stress too much about your dog not getting her walk - she needs stimulation yes, and if you can find someone to walk her GREAT, but this is a short-term problem and she has her whole life with you. If you love her, and can see yourself keeping her because there is no other reason that you haven't told us about yet, then weather this relatively short inconvenience - she's better with you than on the rehoming lists.

boxerly

the_syco wrote: »

How about a choke collar? Have walked strong dogs with it in the past, when I was younger. I think it restricts their breathing when they drag you, and slows them down, as they run out of breath.

Why would you want to restrict your dogs breathing??

daisling

Ok the reason for the title of the post is that she has not been walked in 4 weeks and i dont know when i will be able to again. I was thinking it might be best for her to get a new home where she can have a full life. I could not use a choke chain on her. Her neck is huge and I would hate to do any damage to her. can not get one of those headcollars to fit her as the vet thinks she is a boxer mastiff cross weighed in at 35 kg in August. Anybody know where to get one for a dog with big muzzle. When i got her we were told she was fully grown :eek:. The Sweeper I like your ideas kongs dont work on her as she eats them fairly quickly. I just hate to see such a young dog sitting around

lrushe

OP like others have said I'm not sure if you want to give up your dog or are asking for help managing it.
If you are looking to give you're dog up I would urge you not to, you are already attached to this dog and are finding their behaviour off putting, what makes you think anyone else would want to put up with it ( I don't know how to phrase that without sounding blunt )
I really think the behaviour your dog is displaying is reflection on how it was brought up ie. having a little chew when it was tiny was cute so it wasn't corrected but now its a big dog chewing through fences it's not quite so cute. It also reflects the dogs age, the teenage years are when most dogs are surrendered to shelters and pounds because it is the time most dogs test boundaries and become for want of a better word a brat.
My first port of call would be to enroll your dog in some obedience classes, it will do it the world of good. If you cannot walk your dog at the moment prehaps you could ask a family member or friend to help out while you recover, or as a last resort hire a dog walker.
After your dogs has learned some obedience commands I would employ the NILF (Nothing In Life is Free) method of training. It basically means your dog gets nothing for free.
For example:
Put your dog’s leash on to go for a walk = Must sit until you’ve put the leash on
Feed your dog = Must lie down and stay until you’ve put the bowl down
Play a game of fetch after work = Must sit and shake hands each time you throw the toy
Rub your dog’s belly while watching TV = Must lie down and rollover before being pet

boxerly

I have 2 boxers and when I was heavily pregnant I had to use a halti on Bruno when he was younger because he pulled and bring like a ball on legs I would nearly fall over,so you can get a halti to fit her squishy face:)Have you thought about a dog walker?What area are you in?pm it if ye like

adser53

daisling wrote: »

can not get one of those headcollars to fit her as the vet thinks she is a boxer mastiff cross weighed in at 35 kg in August. Anybody know where to get one for a dog with big muzzle.

If you check the dogmatic webbie here http://www.dogmatic.org.uk/contents/en-uk/d10.html
You'll see size 6 is for bullmastiffs, 7 is for neopolitan mastiffs (very rare here) etc. Along with a measuring guide down the bottom

I have 2 (American) Akitas (one of which is fully grown at approx 50kg but has a longer muzzle than your lad) and a size 5L which is perfect. You should have no bother with this crowd and if it doesn't fit they'll take it back/refund without any hassle

The Sweeper

If you can't get a headcollar, look for a chest harness that tugs under the armpits when the dog pulls.

Also kongs - even the HUGE ones, the big black superkongs? If you mean she eats the contents of the kong, as opposed to chewing the toy to crap, then try different contents, or a smaller kong, or freeze the kong with contents before giving it to her, or compact the contents more. I'm not crazy about the stuff-it pastes that kong provides for their toys, just because the amount of preservative in them gives me the heebies, but as I said I find raw mince is an excellent kong-stuffer. If you don't fancy feeding raw mince, cook some liver and put it through a blender first with perhaps something like cooked brown rice - you want some sticky, lickable, gluey paste that will make the dog work to empty the toy. There's no point filling a kong with kibble and sealing the end with peanut butter - the second the butter's gone, there's an immediate kibble reward and the toy's empty!

adser53

The Sweeper wrote: »

If you can't get a headcollar, look for a chest harness that tugs under the armpits when the dog pulls.

I've never used a harness because,to me, it seemed like a harness would encourage them to pull as the strain is gone from their necks. Kind of like the way a sled dog pulls in a harness?

I'm happy with the headcollars but would you have a link for the type harness you recommend Sweeper? For future refernece

Shazanne

Hi Daisling! Seldom have I seen such good advice given on any thread - the suggestions you have received are excellent and one of the best, in my opinion, is to bring your dog to obedience classes and maybe them progress onto agility classes where they dog can burn off energy in a controlled way.
I have two rescue dogs, the one one will be with me two years in March and, to be honest, it took a year to really get to know her and for her to really know us. The second guy is only with us 12 weeks so we're very much on a learning curve with him. Every so often they will display a new characteristic - particularly the new guy who is very intelligent and headstrong (not at all like the submissive guy we met the first day at the shelter:eek:). I just put it down to the fact that they have a past and its one that I know nothing about so I try to work around it and correct it.
If at all possible please dont return your dog to a shelter - at least not without trying everything you have been advised to do. Times are hard right now and fewer dogs are being adopted, while hundreds are being abandoned. Plus, for your eight year olds sake, it would not be nice to give away the family pet.
I am not preaching at you or trying to make you feel guilty - sometimes it just does not work out with a dog but generally you would not have the dog that long before deciding to give him back. Give the dog (and youself) another chance, an open and honest chance, weigh up the pros and cons after you have tried to correct what is going wrong, and then make your decision. And, if you do decide that you cannot cope, then come back here and get advice on the best place to bring your dog.
Best of luck to you and I truly hope it all works out well. X

The Sweeper

http://www.ozpetshop.com.au/product_info.php/products_id/1241

Sporn training halter. They're designed to pull tight under the dog's armpits if they pull - which is uncomfortable, so they stop pulling. I saw one in use recently on a boxer (very flat faced girl) who's a dreadful puller on the lead - and you can see it work - she goes two or three steps, starts to lean in, gets the armpit tug and stops. Her walks now look more like stutters, but she was pretty bad for starters (rolls over, chews the lead, carries on a pace, so on).

hadook

I've a size 4L Dogmatic (14-16" nose, 22-30" neck) in the picture below that I replaced with a front control harness and then a Ruff Dog Harness when the arthritis started to kick in.

OP, if that Dogmatic would fit and you're in Ireland pm me and I'll post it to you. This may be excellent timing, I just spent 10 minutes trying desperately to get the dogstuff box to shut with limited success. The amount of dog related crap I've bought over the last 10 years is shocking

Another thing you can try is the front connection Sensible harness. We've had a few foster dogs in the past that weren't lead trained and it worked wonders with them. You can only barely see it but the MooDog is also wearing one of those in the picture below too.

adser53

The Sweeper wrote: »

http://www.ozpetshop.com.au/product_info.php/products_id/1241

Sporn training halter. They're designed to pull tight under the dog's armpits if they pull - which is uncomfortable, so they stop pulling. I saw one in use recently on a boxer (very flat faced girl) who's a dreadful puller on the lead - and you can see it work - she goes two or three steps, starts to lean in, gets the armpit tug and stops. Her walks now look more like stutters, but she was pretty bad for starters (rolls over, chews the lead, carries on a pace, so on).

Thanks Sweeper, I've never seen these before, gonna have a look at them now
Sorry OP for hijacking

hadook wrote: »

I've a size 4L Dogmatic (14-16" nose, 22-30" neck) in the picture below that I replaced with a front control harness and then a Ruff Dog Harness when the arthritis started to kick in.

Stunning dog hadook!

Just one more thing OP, If I were you I'd avoid buying the "Halti" brand headcollar. In my experience, they tend to pull up into your dogs eyes and can be very uncomfortable on them. Friends of mine with a GSD and numerous members on here have also said the same. If you look at the pic below, the "Dogmatic" is on my bigger akita and the halti on the smaller. At this angle they're almost indistinguishable but as soon as there is pressure on the lead from them pulling, the halti's flaws are immediately evident. (the dogmatic is also much better quality)

Jennyfer

The Sweeper wrote: »

http://www.ozpetshop.com.au/product_info.php/products_id/1241

Sporn training halter. They're designed to pull tight under the dog's armpits if they pull - which is uncomfortable, so they stop pulling. I saw one in use recently on a boxer (very flat faced girl) who's a dreadful puller on the lead - and you can see it work - she goes two or three steps, starts to lean in, gets the armpit tug and stops. Her walks now look more like stutters, but she was pretty bad for starters (rolls over, chews the lead, carries on a pace, so on).

Exactly what I use on my Boxer and what used to be a chore (i.e. taking her for a walk) is now a pleasure! She doesnt even bother tryin to pull anymore, just struts along beside me. I cant recommend this enough!

boomerang

OP As hadook says, the front-connection harnesses can work very well. I might have an extra-large one lying around that will fit. Will you measure your doggy's girth for me in inches - that's the circumference just behind her front legs. If it's the right size for her, I'll send it on to you.

Wouldn't be a big fan of the harnesses that pull under the front legs as the string can chafe, particularly if the dog ignores the discomfort and pulls anyways.

Just one other thing though - if you are seriously reconsidering owning this dog then the first thing to do would be to phone the rescue you took her from. Most rescues have it as a condition of adoption that if you no longer want the dog, it must go back to them. They'd rather handle that responsibility and ensure the dog gets another good home than leave it to chance.

boxerly

hadook wrote: »

I've a size 4L Dogmatic (14-16" nose, 22-30" neck) in the picture below that I replaced with a front control harness and then a Ruff Dog Harness when the arthritis started to kick in.

OP, if that Dogmatic would fit and you're in Ireland pm me and I'll post it to you. This may be excellent timing, I just spent 10 minutes trying desperately to get the dogstuff box to shut with limited success. The amount of dog related crap I've bought over the last 10 years is shocking

Another thing you can try is the front connection Sensible harness. We've had a few foster dogs in the past that weren't lead trained and it worked wonders with them. You can only barely see it but the MooDog is also wearing one of those in the picture below too.

Your dog is fabbbbbbbbbbbbb xxxxxxxxxxx

magentas

Failing all of the advice given here, maybe you could contact the shelter you rescued the dog from and see if they would be willing to take her back temporarily until you're up and running again (no pun intended!)

I've heard of people doing this if they are unable to care for their dog for whatever reason. That way she keeps her family and you have time to recover.

Giving her up should be an absolute last resort

the_syco

boxerly wrote: »

Why would you want to restrict your dogs breathing??

Volunteered to walk someones dog once, and that was what I was given. The dog that I had volunteered to walk was a boxer I think. Friendly dog, but damn strong. Only needed to pull it back when he went towards another dog (other dogs owner looked scared of the boxer).

It was a suggestion.

liquoriceall

hi I have a 3 year old basset who I had major problems walking between lunging at other dogs dawdling behind me(sniffing!), I tried everything, sensible harness, choke chain (I am ashamed to say this but was on recommendation of dog trainer) harness, classes, long story short this summer I knew I was going to be having surgery in sept and wouldnt be able to walk him with all these issues.
Soo I got in a dog behaviouralist and he is now fab! Turns out there was nothing wrong with him I was giving him all sorts of signals that were setting him off, best money I have ever spent and now I walk him with his normal everyday collar and 3 ft lead and hes great a pleasure to walk
Would you consider a dog walker? Had to send my boy to my sister when I was recovering but I know not everyone has family to help out

Shanao

the_syco wrote: »

How about a choke collar? Have walked strong dogs with it in the past, when I was younger. I think it restricts their breathing when they drag you, and slows them down, as they run out of breath.

Sorry just had to leap in before its too late. 'Choke collars' are really check collars and only people who know how to use them should. There are two ways to put them on; one way chokes, the other one checks and releases. And I've done all of my obedience training with them so they really do work. Its just that the way people use them, the end up hurting the dog whereas the check is supposed to recall their attention to the owner.

Anyway, OP like the rest I would reccommend a dogmatic. The other thing I've used a few times are the Gentledog harnesses, I've found them pretty good too

daisling

Hi guys got her out in a local car park last night and played fetch for an hour in the rain. Felt so good to get her out she snored in front of the fire for the rest of the night. Have to say I was a bit worried about posting here but the posts have been nothing but helpful. I had never heard of making dogs work for food but it makes sense. Thank you all so much. I was at breaking point and ye all dragged me back to remember how important she is. Called vet and she is looking into classes for me in the area.

boxerly

exelent news xx,I love walking in the rain hehe,strange but true xxclears d head BUT with all the wind and rain lately i have an ear infection so block you ears with cotton wool,raincoat and cap is the answer hehe.Delighted for you both xxxx

macai

Never mind a choke chain as the dog will learn nothing, and only hurt it. What you need is a pinch collar if you google it you'll find details.

When you pull hard on the lead/dog misbehaving it pinches their neck just like their mother would do to them.

Dog will learn what their doing wrong very quickly, and will learn if they misbehave whilst walking they will have pain.

Secondly when using this do not respond if the dog howls when you pull on the lead, as their only looking for attention.

We use one on our fella also a rescue dog, and he knows well when I pull on the lead he's up to no good, and will subsequently heel.

Jelly2

This is a really great thread! I can't believe the detail that people have gone into to help Daisling, and it's a real reminder of how much can be done to help our relations with our dogs. I have my dogs a good while, but reading the posts reminded me that I need to be persistent in my routines etc, and not let bad habits (on my part, and the dogs'!) creep in. Good luck to you Daisling, and don't let the worry get you down....

Whispered

OP it is my opinion that to use a "pinch" collar is a very bad idea.



It cannot be comfortable for a dog - and while it may get results, I think you would be better off using one of the more humane methods mentioned above. Especially considering you have a rescue dog and probably know very little about their background.

As for ignoring your dog if it howls when it has a pinch collar on. My dog never howls or yelps for attention. I know if he does howl or yelp something is wrong. Some dogs may be more vocal, but it depends on the individual dog. I'm not sure it's a good idea to advise someone to ignore their dogs signals. Especially when using a piece of equipment which you would not be used to using.