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ROK Jigsaw ..

  • 09-11-2010 6:16pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 23,718 ✭✭✭✭


    Hi lads,

    Bought a ROK 800w laser guided jigsaw for cutting a little bit of metal (2mms thick) at home... says on the box that it will cut up to 10mms.. After cutting about 1.5 feet the blade is completely shagged... Do they purposely give you a crap blade so that you have to make further purchases, or is it just a wooden blade (i.e. and I need to get steel cutting blades)...

    thanks,
    J


Comments

  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Hi lads,

    Bought a ROK 800w laser guided jigsaw for cutting a little bit of metal (2mms thick) at home... says on the box that it will cut up to 10mms.. After cutting about 1.5 feet the blade is completely shagged... Do they purposely give you a crap blade so that you have to make further purchases, or is it just a wooden blade (i.e. and I need to get steel cutting blades)...

    thanks,
    J


    Cutting through 2mm metal with a wood blade,will usually feck it up pretty fast.

    Why do you think you use a "Steel/Metal" blade/disc for metal and a wood blade/disc for wood????

    I mean,you dont use a wood drill bit in a drill to drill though steel or concrete.;)

    Go to your local builders providers and buy yourself a HSS disc to suit.

    SIMPLES.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,259 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    paddy147 wrote: »
    Cutting through 2mm metal with a wood blade,will usually feck it up pretty fast.

    Why do you think you use a "Steel/Metal" blade/disc for metal and a wood blade/disc for wood????

    I mean,you dont use a wood drill bit in a drill to drill though steel or concrete.;)

    Go to your local builders providers and buy yourself a HSS disc to suit.

    SIMPLES.

    I disagree. No reason you can't cut it with a steel blade for a Jigsaw


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Appoligies,I was thinking of a ROK chop saw.(was talking to someone about a chop saw earlier on).

    But same rule applies for a jigsaaw.

    HSS Steel blade for steel/metal

    Wood blade for wood.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    the jigsaw is grand. and its generally the blades that are crap. the usual market for the likes of rok or own brand tools is an ocassional use.

    i have a cheap b&q jigsaw. the jigsaw is grand laid 3 houses worth of wood floors with it. the original baldes were rubbish. bought i think bosch blades. still have the original pack of 10 i think.

    so invest in good blades. mind you i think the pack of blades cost as musch as the jigsaw :D

    p.s. That laser guide is the business!!!

    just to add i think i only got blades for wood. so steel blades will be different.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 23,718 ✭✭✭✭JonathanAnon


    I know what you are saying about the metal/concrete drillbits... but I was just wondering why they would say on the side of the box that it could cut 10mms, then the blade cant even cut more than a foot of 2mms steel... I mean the teeth of the saw have COMPLETELY melted... bit disingenuous to give such a crap blade... Gonna get some proper blades and do some serious damage tomorrow.. ;-)
    p.s. That laser guide is the business!!!
    The laser IS amazingly handy.. but does it need to be calibrated or something...? My laser is slightly to the right of the centre line, where the saw cuts... what I mean is if I line the jigsaw laser up with the line I have drawn, it cuts about 2mms to the left of the laser line....


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  • Registered Users Posts: 166 ✭✭Spannerman7


    Hi Jonathan,
    Use some cutting oil to lubricate the blade, lay a line of it where you intend to cut.
    You may have better results with an angle grinder (115mm) and some skinny discs and then use a sanding pad and sanding discs to deburr after the cutting.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 23,718 ✭✭✭✭JonathanAnon


    Hi again Spannerman, As you can see I'm still working on my little project.. I think it's almost there after a few more revisions and tweaks..

    I got the Jigsaw (as opposed to the angle grinder) to give a smoother edge, this is what I was advised.. and to be fair it does give a good edge.. I saw that tapping/cutting fluid on a youtube video, but didnt imagine that it would make a huge difference.. If you think that it will help significantly, I'll get some today, when I'm buying my new blades...

    tks again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,632 ✭✭✭ART6


    Hi again Spannerman, As you can see I'm still working on my little project.. I think it's almost there after a few more revisions and tweaks..

    I got the Jigsaw (as opposed to the angle grinder) to give a smoother edge, this is what I was advised.. and to be fair it does give a good edge.. I saw that tapping/cutting fluid on a youtube video, but didnt imagine that it would make a huge difference.. If you think that it will help significantly, I'll get some today, when I'm buying my new blades...

    tks again.

    Spannerman is right. You don't have to buy cutting fluid though. Any oil will do fine. Personally I use chain saw chain oil since it's biodegradable and readily available from DIY stores. If you don't use a lubricant any blade will wear out fast.


  • Registered Users Posts: 166 ✭✭Spannerman7


    It will make the world of difference for you, on something like alu, any oil will do, it is just to stop melting alu cloging the teeth, however on steel I would recomend a cutting oil, it has several jobs to do but mainly lubricating the contact area between the teeth and metal and secondly to remove heat from the blade, it's cheap as chips anyway. Use it while drilling after and increase the time between resharpening/replacing the bit.
    Hope the project is going well for you Jonathan.
    let us know how you get on.
    :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 23,718 ✭✭✭✭JonathanAnon


    okay, got the blades... Hi-Tech Black & Decker Piranha.... HSS X22052..

    After reading above...... FCUKKKKKK !! forgot the damned fluid... there's some engine oil in the shed for a diesel engine, gonna use that instead..

    put in the new blades, and tried.. it was moving through the steel slowly but surely.... But I found when I moved it away from the wooden table underneath (ooooppsss), it flew through ... Any good excuses I can give the landlord for a big line down the table?

    Regarding the laser guide, I'm not sure if I need to calibrate..
    laserguided_jigsaw.jpg
    You will notice in the image that there is a gap of about 0.5cm between the line marked on the jigsaw (indicating where it cuts) and the laser.. should they not be along the same line?

    I can actually cut it straight enough without the laser,but it probably would make it even easier.. Cut out the section I needed to cut very quickly, certainly much quicker than the hacksaw anyway.. ;)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 166 ✭✭Spannerman7


    Big ooops about the table, tell him Dr Evil crashed through the door, pinned you to the table and had a laser weapon tracking along which would have cut you in half, by a stroke of luck when Dr Evil left you managed to free yourself and turn off the laser but some damage had already occured to the table, and Evil came back later and removed his laser.
    I'd say he'd go for it. :D
    Thanks for letting us know the cutting worked out.
    Spannerman


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,259 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Laser guides on Jigsaws are useless. I have one on my Ryobi Cordless and its not inline with the blade. It sits to the right of the blade and if you want to cut 'on the line' it doesn't, so I don't bother with it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    the laser on my one was grand. its only an idicator though i suppose.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 23,718 ✭✭✭✭JonathanAnon


    It sits to the right of the blade and if you want to cut 'on the line' it doesn't, so I don't bother with it.

    yeah Fingers, that's the same with mine... I thought I just had to calibrate it, but there's nothing about that in the manual... I would agree with you, it's of no use if it's not along the line of cutting... gonna research it a bit more and see if I can find anything..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    well. if its right of the line. just offset your guidline from the cut line.

    e.g. set you line 3mm to the right of you cut line. so when the laser is on your guide line although its off to one side it will but your desired line.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 23,718 ✭✭✭✭JonathanAnon


    Ahhhhh, I can cut straight enough just by drawing a line and aligning it with the marker on the jigsaw... but the laser would have been a bit more visible...

    I mean they did say laser guided... not guided by a laser offset by 3mms... I could have saved a tenner getting the non laser non guided Jigsaw.. :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    well its not rocket science adding an extra 3mm and then it will be laser guided again. and the tenner was not lost.


    its annoying though.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 23,718 ✭✭✭✭JonathanAnon


    Sorry for resurrecting this one lads, but the jigsaw is cutting crookedly now... Is it as simple as replacing the blade or what else should I be looking for?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,259 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Check and see if the blade is straight. If its not, then the shaft that runs the blades is most likely bent off center which is causing it. Same with my own, and I just live with it tbh. I'm used to it now.


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