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Socket Wiring Too Short after Dry-Lining

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  • 18-11-2010 12:29pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 336 ✭✭


    Realised after dry-lining that wiring was just slightly too short to reconnect socket (which is on ring).

    So used connectors for each to extend wiring, tightened up and taped.

    Only 38mm dry-lining so didn't feel I would have depth for a chocbox.

    Is this bad practice - the connections are behind the socket...


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 366 ✭✭johnnyjb


    As far as im concerned the cable connections should be accesable for inspection- can they be unscrewed too and must also but mechanically protected and insulated from the drylining etc..

    Cant point exactly to the regs (dont have the new regs-on the dole) but that would be my common sense.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    ya-it won't be allowed

    connectors accessible and in suitable enclosure


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Nothing worse than the cables too short, one of most annoying things when replacing a socket or switch etc, can barely get the socket away from the box.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    there are some exceptions to the rule about connectors/joints being accessible


    but it won't apply here


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Probably not as bad if the connectors are actually in the socket box, im not a big fan of taping them up myself either if they are in the box.
    What about moving the socket up a bit, is that an option OP.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 336 ✭✭CBYR1983


    robbie7730 wrote: »
    Probably not as bad if the connectors are actually in the socket box, im not a big fan of taping them up myself either if they are in the box.
    What about moving the socket up a bit, is that an option OP.

    Can't really move - what would you be suggesting - having a wire coming out of wall to junction box, then back into wall and up to socket? Seems messy.

    Or is it more like a blank plated box below the socket?

    The new connection junctions can be accessed by unscrewing the socket, I just used 75mm screws instead of putting in a cavity wall box.

    It's about two inches of extension that I added.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    CBYR1983 wrote: »
    Can't really move - what would you be suggesting - having a wire coming out of wall to junction box, then back into wall and up to socket? Seems messy.

    Or is it more like a blank plated box below the socket?

    The new connection junctions can be accessed by unscrewing the socket, I just used 75mm screws instead of putting in a cavity wall box.

    It's about two inches of extension that I added.


    No if the cable is coming up from below the socket could be lowered, if from above it can be raised, and original cable straight into it, no connectors, it might sound `mad`:) or messy, but its easy for the competent to do on a dry lined wall neatly, it depends where the socket is. A new hole is cut out and the rectangular plaster piece is put where the socket was using a batton and all that needs filling is around edge of plaster rectangle where original socket position was. And socket now into new hole. Or can just be moved up/down half a socket height using the same method. But it might not be suitable for moving depending where it was.

    If the extending connectors are in the socket box itself its not as bad as in behind the dry lining.


  • Registered Users Posts: 336 ✭✭CBYR1983


    robbie7730 wrote: »
    No if the cable is coming up from below the socket could be lowered, if from above it can be raised, and original cable straight into it, no connectors, it might sound `mad`:) or messy, but its easy for the competent to do on a dry lined wall neatly, it depends where the socket is. A new hole is cut out and the rectangular plaster piece is put where the socket was using a batton and all that needs filling is around edge of plaster rectangle where original socket position was. And socket now into new hole. Or can just be moved up/down half a socket height using the same method. But it might not be suitable for moving depending where it was.

    If the extending connectors are in the socket box itself its not as bad as in behind the dry lining.

    Thanks, I see now :), my notions obviously "mad".

    Problem is that the cable coming up to the socket from the floor is in conduit which was plastered over (onto which I then put dry-lining).

    Too messy to get out the conduit now. Plus I wanted to use the existing metal box rather than putting in a new cavity wall box.

    More of a safety query really:confused:. The extending connectors are in the socket box.

    Pity, I was fairly close to getting the existing wiring connected but didn't want to force it!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    CBYR1983 wrote: »
    Thanks, I see now :), my notions obviously "mad".

    Problem is that the cable coming up to the socket from the floor is in conduit which was plastered over (onto which I then put dry-lining).

    Too messy to get out the conduit now. Plus I wanted to use the existing metal box rather than putting in a new cavity wall box.

    More of a safety query really:confused:. The extending connectors are in the socket box.

    Pity, I was fairly close to getting the existing wiring connected but didn't want to force it!

    Should be ok with connectors inside the box, inside walls where they cant be seen is the real cowboy job. Make sure the steel back box has an earth onto it.


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