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upgrading a mtb?

  • 29-11-2010 6:39pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,411 ✭✭✭


    hey guys im just wondering is it easy to upgrade the parts on a bike (say the brakes chainset Derailleur's etc.) im looking at putting some high quality stuff on my bike (bionicon Edison ltd) when i get some cash, for instance im looking at putting a Sram xx rear derailleur on it when i can save up some cash as well as swapping out all the other drive train components for Sram xx when i can get the money. I take it all parts will fit on all bikes and can be reused in any bike you buy later down the road?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 54 ✭✭lazy-biker


    if you plan to put an xx rear mec on you need to change it all at once as its 10speed

    and will not work with 9 speed


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 573 ✭✭✭el Bastardo


    hey guys im just wondering is it easy to upgrade the parts on a bike (say the brakes chainset Derailleur's etc.) im looking at putting some high quality stuff on my bike (bionicon Edison ltd) when i get some cash, for instance im looking at putting a Sram xx rear derailleur on it when i can save up some cash as well as swapping out all the other drive train components for Sram xx when i can get the money. I take it all parts will fit on all bikes and can be reused in any bike you buy later down the road?

    How easy it is depends on how mechanically inclined you are and what tools and facilities you have available to you. There's plenty of information, tutorials etc on the net.

    Bike components are reasonably standard within a category (MTB, road etc), but they come in different sizes so any future bike that you may buy later on would have to match that.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,411 ✭✭✭Icyseanfitz


    lazy-biker wrote: »
    if you plan to put an xx rear mec on you need to change it all at once as its 10speed

    and will not work with 9 speed

    so an sram xx rear derailleur will only work with a 10 speed cassette? what about the front derailleur? would that have more than 3 gears to cycle through? (what are all the components of the drive train? cassette,both derailleur's, chainset and cranks, and the chain) as for putting it together id probably go to a bike shop and watch them do it before id try it myself even though im fairly good mechanical wise


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 502 ✭✭✭adrianshanahan


    What are the current components on the bike, and if they are working correctly and without fault why change them?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,411 ✭✭✭Icyseanfitz


    What are the current components on the bike, and if they are working correctly and without fault why change them?

    specs:

    Frame: 7000 T6 AL
    X- Fusion O2 RPV
    Forks: Bionicon Double agent for E
    80 - 160 mm
    Rear Derailleur: Sram X-7
    Front Derailleur: Sram X -7
    Shifters: Sram X-5
    Chainset: Truvativ Five D 44/32/22
    Bottom Bracket: Truvative
    Chain: Sram PC971
    Freewheel: Sram PC950 11 - 34
    Headset: Bionicon FIT
    Stem: Bionicon adjustble Twin lock
    Handlebars: Bionicon Barfly
    Front Brake: Avid Juicy 3 185mm
    Rear Brake: Avid Juicy 3 185mm
    Rims: Alexrims
    Front Hub: Shimano Deore
    Rear Hub: Shimano Deore
    Spokes: DT swiss comp
    Tyres: Schwalbe Albert Sport 2.25
    Saddle: Selle italis XO
    Seatpost: Bionicon

    my reason for upgrading it ??? overkill maybe :D its a great bike as it is id just like to make it even better for when i need it (anything ye think i should upgrade on the bike? also ive noticed that i push bikes quite hard while im on them which is kind of my reasoning for adding new parts to the bike as i bought it second hand (great nic all the same)) , also the down shifter for the for the rear derailleur seems very hard to push is this normal or should it be silky smooth?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 502 ✭✭✭adrianshanahan


    I'm no pro and there are others who I'm sure know way more but all that stuff on your bike is good gear. There are those that think the Juicy 3 brakes aren't great but if they stop when you pull them sure what more could you ask?

    As for your shifter, the Sram stuff is pretty precise and trouble free, your cable bit be slack / over tight. You would be surprised what a a good clean / lube and perhaps a cable change can do performance wise.

    Don't go "upgrading" anything for now, just ride your bike and enjoy it, its savage craic. If something brakes they change it and consider upgrading bits then. But once you start getting to the top end parts you are only getting lightness not performance increase.

    Adrian


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,411 ✭✭✭Icyseanfitz


    yeah the rear down shifter is very tight (about the only negative on the bike so far) as in id be doing a uphill stretch and struggling to down-shift while cycling otherwise the bike is insane :D think il just add some new shiny peddles some grips (maybe a saddle) and try to fix the shifter for the moment and save my money up to buy a nice hardtail as a backup :) speaking of which this seems like a good deal for a nice cheap backup bike....god damn you can sink money into this very easy :D well hey at least i aint drinking it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 502 ✭✭✭adrianshanahan


    If you are mad to spend money get your self some SPD peddles and shoes, they make a world of difference.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,411 ✭✭✭Icyseanfitz


    actually about shifters do you have to buy specific ones to go with specific derailleurs (like needing a 10sp cassette in conjunction with the correct derailleurs) or can you add in say a set of Sram x0 shifters with Sram x7 derailleurs?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,411 ✭✭✭Icyseanfitz


    If you are mad to spend money get your self some SPD peddles and shoes, they make a world of difference.

    SPD peddles? there the ones you can clip your shoes into right? there is already a set of them on the bike but id be wary of actually buying shoes and then strapping my feet onto the peddles as i like to have the option of putting my feet on the ground :D not too sure how the peddles and shoes actually work tbh im looking at buying flat peddles at the moment


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,676 ✭✭✭Gavin


    Get SPD shoes and just use the pedals. No point in buying flats when you will probably change back to SPDs at some point.

    re the rest of the components, just ride the bike till things break and then change em


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,411 ✭✭✭Icyseanfitz


    Gavin wrote: »
    Get SPD shoes and just use the pedals. No point in buying flats when you will probably change back to SPDs at some point.

    re the rest of the components, just ride the bike till things break and then change em

    whats the craic with these shoes? what happens if you fall does the bike stay with you or is it easy to unlock your feet from the peddles?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 82 ✭✭thehangtenguy


    I'd keep your money and replace components when you break them / wear them out.
    If you have to spend money, i'd start with upgrade the wheelset first followed by the fork.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 502 ✭✭✭adrianshanahan


    SPD's are the job, for some reason some cyclists are mad to spread all sort of scaremongering stories about them. Don't mind that, they are easy clip in and out of and make no end of difference in performance.

    Get the shoes and you won't look back.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,031 ✭✭✭CheGuedara


    Don't mind that, they are easy clip in and out of and make no end of difference in performance.

    Get the shoes and you won't look back.

    +1

    Everyone has a spudfall when starting off with em but after that they're all advantage


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,411 ✭✭✭Icyseanfitz


    I'd keep your money and replace components when you break them / wear them out.
    If you have to spend money, i'd start with upgrade the wheelset first followed by the fork.

    the fork is the one thing i dont want to upgrade on this bike its great (plus the fact that its made by bionicon themselves as its part of their adjustable suspension system which means it would be tricky to upgrade it), the shock however can be upgraded as higher end models have a better shock than the one i have, but even the 3k edison ltd 0 has the same fork

    also ive attached two pics of the peddles on the bike these are the peddles ye are on about right?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 502 ✭✭✭adrianshanahan


    They look like Shamano M424s Don't mind what they are called they do the job perfect.

    Get your self some MTB SPD shoes now and you will be elected. I use these but get what ever ones you feel you like and are within budget.

    As you aren't buying new peddles you will also need some cleates. These are the links between your shoes and peddles.

    Enjoy


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,411 ✭✭✭Icyseanfitz


    what exactly are cleats? what do they do and how do i install them? i presume i need them for using SPD shoes? also what is the difference between these kind of shoes and the one you listed, is it a purely cosmetic thing?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 502 ✭✭✭adrianshanahan


    Those type of shoes are more used for BMX / Freeride / Downhill or so google tells me. The main difference is the fit and how much flex the sole has.

    For the kind of stuff you are likely to be doing get a more traditional MTB shoe which is less likely to soak up muck and water and fall apart in the Irish weather.

    As I said cleats are the link between your shoes and your peddles, there is loads of info online.

    They make a world of difference so as the add says "Just do it"


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,411 ✭✭✭Icyseanfitz


    Those type of shoes are more used for BMX / Freeride / Downhill or so google tells me. The main difference is the fit and how much flex the sole has.

    For the kind of stuff you are likely to be doing get a more traditional MTB shoe which is less likely to soak up muck and water and fall apart in the Irish weather.

    As I said cleats are the link between your shoes and your peddles, there is loads of info online.

    They make a world of difference so as the add says "Just do it"

    thanks for all the help, time to go do some googling :D


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