Log Gasifiction wood boiler

teepee

Hi all ,
After a long cold wait i final got the log gasification boiler up and running ,
a few teething problems , great heat out of it , a few question for ye experienced users ,
How long does a full load of logs burn for ? 3/4 hour max for me .
what temp does your buffer tank reach to ? mine 75 / 85 deg .
Any tips on useing it .
Thanks for any replys in advance ,
Teepee .

reilig

teepee wrote: »

Hi all ,
After a long cold wait i final got the log gasification boiler up and running ,
a few teething problems , great heat out of it , a few question for ye experienced users ,
How long does a full load of logs burn for ? 3/4 hour max for me .
what temp does your buffer tank reach to ? mine 75 / 85 deg .
Any tips on useing it .
Thanks for any replys in advance ,
Teepee .

What make and KW is your boiler and what size is your buffer tank.
Mine is an Atmos 25 kw and will burn ash for 5 to 6 hours on a full burn. I'm burning willow at the moment - lights up and generates heat very fast but a full chamber will only burn for 4 hours max.

Buffer tank is 1500l and 2 fills of willow can easily put it from cold to 90 degrees top and bottom.

My best tip is to always ensure that the wood you are using has been dried for at least 1 year. You should be cutting wood now when the sap is low so that you can dry it and be burning it next winter. Also, to save time and energy, saw the wood the length of the boiler - mine is 50cm so that's the length of my logs. Burning dry wood will also ensure that your boiler and chimney remain reasonably clean of soot.

My boiler is running for over a year now and I am very happy with it. Its reliable and the buffer tank gives instant heat to the radiators in my house. Heating costs me only the petrol for the saw.

I do feel that a lot of log gasifying boilers were pulling the wool over our eyes - or at least tried to. When I was considering buying, I looked at a lot of log gasifying boilers in a lot of showrooms and at shows here and in the uk. Some of these suppliers claimed that their boilers would burn for up to 20 hours with a full load of wood. That's not realistic, and many of them tried to convince me that softwood would burn for nearly as long oas hardwood. In reality, softwood will only burn for 50% of the time of the willow that i am burning and less than 50% of the time of ash. 6 hours is realistically the longest that you wil get from any burn - unless your burn chamber is absolutely huge and if you're using softwood, expect this to be only 3 hours. I thought that there would be so many more of these types of boilers in the country - especially among farmers that might have their own wood supply. But in reality, the price has been really prohibitative. I have said it on here before that the majority of suppliers of gasifying boilers in this country were ripping off people amd I got scolded by several suppliers by PM for making this information public. They got their just reward with a lack of sales but the environment suffered with a lack of reasonably priced efficient log burners in the country. If you consider the amount of fuel and energy that it takes to produce wood pellets in comparison to logs then it is fair to say that pellets are really no more environmentally friendly than oil.

Sorry for the rant - i just feel strongly about it.

L driver

Hello,
Reilig is the log burner your only heating for the house. Sounds like a great system fair play

reilig

L driver wrote: »

Hello,
Reilig is the log burner your only heating for the house. Sounds like a great system fair play

I've a small stanley errigal range in my kitchen which just heats domestic hot water and is used for cooking. It runs on turf and we burn about a bag of turf per day in it during this cold weather. Also have a small stanley stove in the sitting room which is lit on cold evenings - usually with coal or briquettes.

The log gasifying boiler is the only heating for the radiators though.

teepee

Thanks for that reilig ,
Its a 42 kw OPOP log gasification log boiler ,
Takes 600mm logs .
Buffer tank is 2000 liter .
A bit confused when they said it can burn for 12 hours :eek:
maybe its just me but i light it a 7 pm reload at 10pm would that sound right useing a mixture of beech and softwood .
Should i be shovleing it in every few hours .

btb

Have a vigas 40 with 2200ltr buffer, 3rd winter I've been using it. Burn all softwood at the moment, loading twice a day, will burn 4/5 hours between fills but may not take a full load 2nd time. Buffer will get up to approx 85 mdiway through 2nd fill if heating not on. Have sourced hardwood thinnings this year (have to cut down over the next month or so) so will see next winter if the difference is worth it.

reilig

The bigger boilers will probably get a longer burn out of 1 fill I presume guys? I thought that my boiler held a lot until I saw a 40KW atmos which had a burn chamber of nearly twice the size of mine.

Have sourced hardwood thinnings this year (have to cut down over the next month or so) so will see next winter if the difference is worth it

Trust me, it will be well worth it. You will get much longer burns out of the hardwood. I burned softwood in my boiler in September and October and it went throught it so fast. I was glad by the time I got to the hardwood. Luckily I have some ash on my land and I cut a few trees last year. I also got some willow coppicing from a neighbour in exchange for me helping him to cut it down for his REPS.

teepee

Did any of ye get the 12 hour burn that it says on the manual ,
purcased it for this reason

reilig

teepee wrote: »

Did any of ye get the 12 hour burn that it says on the manual ,
purcased it for this reason

You would get it if you didn't have a buffer tank. You'd be heating the house directly from the boiler and when the stat in the house would switch off the pump, the boiler would overheat, fan shut down and boiler go into sleep mode while the wood in the chamber would only be smouldering. Then when your stat called for heat again, the boiler would start up again and start to burn. You could technically get 12 hours out of it this way. Its how the first gasifying boilers worked with no buffer tanks. But by all accounts and all published documentation on gasifying boilers, the most efficient way to install your boiler is with a buffer tank so that it can operate at full burn (hence the efficiency). Also, the use of a buffer will double the life of your boiler and half the amount of times that you have to clean it.

teepee

Finally got my head around the log boiler ,
I have plenty of hot water now , afther the house is heated the 2000L tank is around 65 to 70 degrees , full burn brings it up to 85 Deg .
I filled it up before going to bed around 10.30pm , i swicht off the fan and it slowly burns , checked it this morning at 7.15am and the pipe state read 83 deg which was great i taught on opening the fire box the supply of timber that i had filled at 10.30pm was just over half way burned to my delight the tank state was 75 deg at the top and 60deg at the bottom . Filled the fire box up again and went to work , with the fan off , arrived home at 6.00 pm again the pipe state red 75 deg and the tank 70 to 65deg . Open the fire box and happy days the timber was only a bit over half way burned .
Before i was like the shoving timber in every 2 hours :mad::mad: id have a artic load coming every week at that rate .
Thanks all for your comments .:D

viztopia

has anyone come accross pat lee? his website is www.patlee.ie and he is based in wicklow. he makes wood boilers and as far as i can see he is the only Irish manufacturer. I seen his stall at the self build show in city west and asked a few questions but it was a young person on duty at the time and he didnt know too much. might take a trip out to his show rooms!

reilig

viztopia wrote: »

has anyone come accross pat lee? his website is www.patlee.ie and he is based in wicklow. he makes wood boilers and as far as i can see he is the only Irish manufacturer. I seen his stall at the self build show in city west and asked a few questions but it was a young person on duty at the time and he didnt know too much. might take a trip out to his show rooms!

I've spoken to him at an event that he had a display stand at. I would have considered him but for 2 reasons. Firstly, I don't need a 46kw boiler. Secondly, the 46kw boiler that he had on display was huge. It could hold the size of a small square bale of straw. I estimated it to be at least 4 times the size of the burn chamber of my atmos boiler. He said that 1 fill would heat my 1500l buffer tank and keep my house warm every day but in reality, one fill of my atmos boiler keeps my house warm these cold frosty days and when the frost goes, I'll get away with lighting it every second day. It did not have a safety device either - like the honeywell valve that protects from overheating that is fitted on most gasifying boilers. Its a good product, but I think its more suitable for larger buildings than for domestic houses.
This is just my personal opinion.

viztopia

i see sei are giving a €2,000 grant for installation of a gasification boiler. I am been a bit sceptical here, but does anyone think that the sellers of these factor these in to the selling price. e.g. if i am builing a new house i will not qualify for the grant but if i am in the house over a year i will. if i were buying for a house that was over 1 year would i be better off telling the seler that i am a new build and then perhaps get a better price?

btb

try import as cost difference can be significant. I purchased in Austria and the difference was 4.5K delivered to my door vs 9.5K plus vat ex yard here. Got a mate to do the pipework and forgot about applying for any grants. Have not looked back since That was in august 2008.

Bitten & Hisses

btb wrote: »

try import as cost difference can be significant. I purchased in Austria and the difference was 4.5K delivered to my door vs 9.5K plus vat ex yard here. Got a mate to do the pipework and forgot about applying for any grants. Have not looked back since That was in august 2008.

Which brand of boiler did you buy?

btb

Sorry for delay in replying.
Vigas, and came as package boiler, buffer, laddomat, safety valve and expansion vessel. (price was 4k + e500 freight).
Spent approx e200 on fittings and insulation. and 1k on flue (not included in any quote from dealers in ireland).
Company I purchase from not selling vigas any more but plenty others are.
At the time atmos (were slightly better priced) would not allow dealers to sell outside their territory.

All said best investment I made, will have paid for itself in 4 years

reilig

btb wrote: »

Sorry for delay in replying.
Vigas, and came as package boiler, buffer, laddomat, safety valve and expansion vessel. (price was 4k + e500 freight).
Spent approx e200 on fittings and insulation. and 1k on flue (not included in any quote from dealers in ireland).
Company I purchase from not selling vigas any more but plenty others are.
At the time atmos (were slightly better priced) would not allow dealers to sell outside their territory.

All said best investment I made, will have paid for itself in 4 years

My Atmos was priced slightly less 2 years ago. All in at €3k including delivery. The flue cost the same as you. But the fittings and copper came in at somewhere between €800 and €1000. Its all inch and a quarter pipe. Some inch and a quarter compression fittings can be up to €30 each and the solder fittings can be up to €10 each and there is a hell of a lot of fittings needed in the pipe work around the boiler and buffer tank which has to be done in copper rather than qualpex.

As you say, its paying for itself and all in all, the system wasn't much more expensive than a good quality condensing oil boiler system - and I don't have to spend any money on fuel.

L driver

What is the heat demand of your houses. Is a gasification system suitable for a low energy house?

L driver

L driver wrote: »

What is the heat demand of your houses. Is a gasification system suitable for a low energy house?

Yes, I would imagine you can get one that's suitibly sized for your house.

reilig

L driver wrote: »

What is the heat demand of your houses. Is a gasification system suitable for a low energy house?

I don't know the heat demand of my house but the 25kw boiler heats it perfectly with lots to spare. (2000 sq ft house built in 2009) I believe the gasification system would be very suitable for a low energy house as the heat is stored in the buffer tank until you require it (ie. the boiler does not dump its load as it burns like traditional solid fuel boilers without buffer tanks).

You can also mix the water that is coming into your house so that it reaches your underfloor heating or your radiators at the temperature that you set it to be.

reilig

teepee wrote: »

Finally got my head around the log boiler ,
I have plenty of hot water now , afther the house is heated the 2000L tank is around 65 to 70 degrees , full burn brings it up to 85 Deg .
I filled it up before going to bed around 10.30pm , i swicht off the fan and it slowly burns , checked it this morning at 7.15am and the pipe state read 83 deg which was great i taught on opening the fire box the supply of timber that i had filled at 10.30pm was just over half way burned to my delight the tank state was 75 deg at the top and 60deg at the bottom . Filled the fire box up again and went to work , with the fan off , arrived home at 6.00 pm again the pipe state red 75 deg and the tank 70 to 65deg . Open the fire box and happy days the timber was only a bit over half way burned .
Before i was like the shoving timber in every 2 hours :mad::mad: id have a artic load coming every week at that rate .
Thanks all for your comments .:D

Just one question Teepee. I was reading a UK forum about Gasifying boilers and it reminded me of your post above. They are saying that the whole efficency thing about a gasifying boiler is to have the boiler run at full capacity for a short time and produce as much heat as possible to store in the buffer tank. They say that if you only have a smouldering fire with the fan switched off that there will be a build up of soot in your boiler and chimney which could become dangerous. Does your laddomat work when the fan is off? On my boiler, if I turn off the fan, then the laddomat would turn off. It would still heat the tank by self circulation and just smoulder and burn all day long - but it would take ages for the buffer tank to reach the magic 72 degrees. Also, my manual says that I would reduce the life of the boiler by 50% by doing this. Maybe its just that we both have different boilers???

teepee

reilig wrote: »

Just one question Teepee. I was reading a UK forum about Gasifying boilers and it reminded me of your post above. They are saying that the whole efficency thing about a gasifying boiler is to have the boiler run at full capacity for a short time and produce as much heat as possible to store in the buffer tank. They say that if you only have a smouldering fire with the fan switched off that there will be a build up of soot in your boiler and chimney which could become dangerous. Does your laddomat work when the fan is off? On my boiler, if I turn off the fan, then the laddomat would turn off. It would still heat the tank by self circulation and just smoulder and burn all day long - but it would take ages for the buffer tank to reach the magic 72 degrees. Also, my manual says that I would reduce the life of the boiler by 50% by doing this. Maybe its just that we both have different boilers???

Hi Reilig ,
Its still early day for me and my log gasification log boiler , the mannual reads that a slow burn can be done they call it a warm reserve , they do point out the the box needs more cleaning and that it reduces the service life .
I fill it in the morning and the evening so far , might just do one gasification burn in the evening its all testing for me as its new to me , when i first started burning the rads up stairs 13 number used to drain all the hot water then a plumber told me to only turn on the rads one turn and set the pump to setting 1 not 3 that made a huge differance .
Im haveing problems with the timber as it only small lenghts 300mm it makes it hard to fill and burns very fast .
The Laddomat works with the fan off .

nophd08

teepee wrote: »

Hi Reilig ,
Its still early day for me and my log gasification log boiler , the mannual reads that a slow burn can be done they call it a warm reserve , they do point out the the box needs more cleaning and that it reduces the service life .
I fill it in the morning and the evening so far , might just do one gasification burn in the evening its all testing for me as its new to me , when i first started burning the rads up stairs 13 number used to drain all the hot water then a plumber told me to only turn on the rads one turn and set the pump to setting 1 not 3 that made a huge differance .
Im haveing problems with the timber as it only small lenghts 300mm it makes it hard to fill and burns very fast .
The Laddomat works with the fan off .

Hi Lads, I know very little about the type of systems you guys have but it sounds a superb set up. Just a few questions,
1. Is whole set up in a shed away from house.
2. Would it still be viable to run if you had to buy the wood.
3. Does buffer tank replace the DHW tank.
Thanks in advance.

teepee

This might give some idea of the boiler we are talking about , Enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJaveSG6W28

nophd08

teepee wrote: »

This might give some idea of the boiler we are talking about , Enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJaveSG6W28

Nice one. Nothing fancy about his install. He mentioned he used about 10-12 tonnes of wood during heating season, thats what I wondered, I dont have my own supply but I can purchase easily. I also have a decent shed built that would easily house boiler and buffer tank.
Was your house a new build or a retrofit. My house is 1900sq ft bungalow and takes about 2000L oil per year and with oil prices the way they are...
Why are they not more popular in this country especially with farmers etc with own supply of wood.

A lot of questions I know. I would like to see one in operation.

teepee

I was in the same position last year spending 2500 euro per year on oil so changed over .
As you can follow on previous threads what some people do is buy a artic load of choilte 30m3 for around 1100euro i think should do for 2 years , the logs i currently have are to small for my boiler at 300mm long when they should be 600mm long and bigger log too for a longer burn so with the smaller logs it means that they burn away faster .
Also theres a bit of work in the hole set up .

RICHEE

getting great info on gasification from these forums, thanks to all

reilig I remember you mentioned previously that you used to burn turf in your atmos,
I asked m large and they said its ok, I will be buying dry wood as I don't have my own supply but I have a supply of turf, in your opinion is it feasable to burn a mixture of both and is it possible to run the boiler on turf alone as it will cost next to nothing, wouldn't mind if it burns a lot more just don't want to be fleeced buying wood.

Priced coillte and their prices seem to be crazy as I can buy wood at 20 - 25% moisture for same price (based on volume)

teepee

what price per arctic load are they now and where in the country is that price , anybody know of hardwood by the artic load .

RICHEE

€1200 for an arctic load in kerry

teepee

Is it value for money at that price , what do you think ?

RICHEE

Not when I can buy split wood at 20 - 25% moisture for the same price as coillte's wood at approx 60% moisture unsplit

The supplier splits the wood to order, from reading the previous posts would i be correct in saying that if I get the supplier to cut the wood as large as possible to fit the boiler that it will burn more efficiently than loading the boiler with smaller pieces ?

teepee

Yes to my understanding is that you load it with small log graduating up to very large logs to maximise the burning time . the short lenght burn way to fast , also i noticed tonight that i put the boiler on gasification to show a freind my new boiler and i noticed that when the fire was in full gasification the twin wall flue was red hot seems to me that in gasification im losing a big percentage of heat from the twin wall flue and allso i am getting sparks from the top of the chimmney

Sounds like the secondary combustion is ocurring in the chimney instead of the secondary combustion chamber.

All that energy is being wasted!

reilig

RICHEE wrote: »

getting great info on gasification from these forums, thanks to all

reilig I remember you mentioned previously that you used to burn turf in your atmos,
I asked m large and they said its ok, I will be buying dry wood as I don't have my own supply but I have a supply of turf, in your opinion is it feasable to burn a mixture of both and is it possible to run the boiler on turf alone as it will cost next to nothing, wouldn't mind if it burns a lot more just don't want to be fleeced buying wood.

Priced coillte and their prices seem to be crazy as I can buy wood at 20 - 25% moisture for same price (based on volume)

I moved into my house Christmas 2009 and had about 1 month supply of timber and a lot of turf. I burned 1/4 timber and 3/4 turf from December to May last year in the Atmos. There wasn't a bother on it. The only problem that you will have is extra ashes. If you burn timber, you will have to empty ashes about every 10 days. With turf, it will be twice a week. Turf won't burn for as long as hardwood like ash. But in the last few months I have found out that turf will burn for longer than softwood. This is my experience with it anyway!!

RICHEE

thanks reilig, I will be stocking up on turf this year so

m large has specified a 3000ltr tank with the 50s atmos

house is 4500 sq ft but trying to plan for a few years down the road if the mrs wants to convert the attic which will be an extra 2000 ft to heat, so the question is do you think a 4000 ltr tank would be a good idea or would I just be heating extra water that I won't use, tank will also be used for domestic hot water,

reilig

teepee wrote: »

Yes to my understanding is that you load it with small log graduating up to very large logs to maximise the burning time . the short lenght burn way to fast , also i noticed tonight that i put the boiler on gasification to show a freind my new boiler and i noticed that when the fire was in full gasification the twin wall flue was red hot seems to me that in gasification im losing a big percentage of heat from the twin wall flue and allso i am getting sparks from the top of the chimmney

My flue barely gets warm. I'd agree with Dolanbaker and would point out what you said in your earlier post about turning off the fan during a burn to prolong the length of a burn. If your boiler has a similar principal to mine, then it requires the fan for the secondary burn which occurs through the ceramic insert at the base of your boiler. ie. If the fan is off, then the flame does not burn downwards through the ceramic plate in the boiler and into the lower chamber. If my boiler was not doing this, then I imagine that it would not be gasifying and it would just be operating as an ordinary solid fuel boiler - the fuel would be burning in the fuel chamber and the smoke and gas going directly up the chimney instead of into the lower chamber for the secondary burn. If this secondary burn is happening in your chimney, then you are getting no benefit from the heat and may be causing damage to your flue. If you are not getting this flame in the lower chamber, then you are losing out on the hottest part of the burn and your boiler is working at less than 50% efficiency.

reilig

RICHEE wrote: »

thanks reilig, I will be stocking up on turf this year so

m large has specified a 3000ltr tank with the 50s atmos

house is 4500 sq ft but trying to plan for a few years down the road if the mrs wants to convert the attic which will be an extra 2000 ft to heat, so the question is do you think a 4000 ltr tank would be a good idea or would I just be heating extra water that I won't use, tank will also be used for domestic hot water,

I honestly don't know, that's a whopper of a house. I'm sure it will depend on how well you are insulating it. 25kw with a 1500l buffer heats my 2000 sq ft house. And I sometimes feel that a 1000l tank would have been big enough for me. I have only once ever filled the tank to 80 degrees from top to bottom and that was just to test it. I normally light the boiler when I am at home and am using the heat as the boiler is burning so it usually ends up in the morning time that my tank is only 1/2 or 3/4 heated. I never use the full capacity of the 1500l but I suppose the extra space is there as a safety. I expect that the guys in M Large are best placed to advice you though. When I was considering my boiler first, I contacted Atmos Directly through their website and I got loads of useful information back from them. Might be worth your while.

RICHEE

Thank reilig, mighty info

Did any of you hear about the couple who were into renewable energy and had a gasification boiler, well the wife died so the husband decided to do the eco friendly thing and dispose of his wife's remains in the boiler but she produced too much "GAS" and blew up the hot water tank, even when she was dead the B***H was causing trouble

RICHEE

RICHEE wrote: »

Thank reilig, mighty info

Did any of you hear about the couple who were into renewable energy and had a gasification boiler, well the wife died so the husband decided to do the eco friendly thing and dispose of his wife's remains in the boiler but she produced too much "GAS" and blew up the hot water tank, even when she was dead the B***H was causing trouble

So he got one final blast from the old boiler!

teepee

teepee wrote: »

Yes to my understanding is that you load it with small log graduating up to very large logs to maximise the burning time . the short lenght burn way to fast , also i noticed tonight that i put the boiler on gasification to show a freind my new boiler and i noticed that when the fire was in full gasification the twin wall flue was red hot seems to me that in gasification im losing a big percentage of heat from the twin wall flue and allso i am getting sparks from the top of the chimmney

Anyboby else have this experiance , maybe the fan is too strong and has to be reduced , i have emailed them and waiting for a reply , Would be a reson why i am only getting a two hour burn i would think in full gasification .

teepee

The manufactuer got back to me about the hot chimney twin wall fule , turns out that the draw on the chimney was wrong need to adjust .

reilig

teepee wrote: »

The manufactuer got back to me about the hot chimney twin wall fule , turns out that the draw on the chimney was wrong need to adjust .

Too much or too little??

If its too much I recommend the Eurocowel. I had to put 2 onto the chimneys of my house and they have solved serious overdraw problems.

If its too little then you need to extend the height of the flue or put an updraught cowel onto it.

teepee

reilig wrote: »

Too much or too little??

If its too much I recommend the Eurocowel. I had to put 2 onto the chimneys of my house and they have solved serious overdraw problems.

If its too little then you need to extend the height of the flue or put an updraught cowel onto it.

Thank for that reilig ,
Ya there is to much of a draw on the chimney , the manufacter recomended to use the gas control valve {have to find it}

teepee

Chimneys still heating very hot , manufacters opop where no help at all very unhappy with customer services .
Any way i was looking at dragons den on sunday night and this is the product that will harrness the loss of heat from the boiler , the product is designed for oil boilers but cant see why do a log boiler would be any differance , ive emailed them for more info , check the link below .
http://hannoheatmaster.ie/?stn=219&pageno=2

spike1979

reilig is that an antidowndraught cowl you put on it like this one http://www.eurocowl.co.uk/product11.html ? Can you please pm me the details as I have an atmos boiler and the chimney can at times get Very hot.
Thanks

kippax

Hello All

We are renovating an old farmhouse and as part of the project we want to be eco friendly and self sustaining in time regarding heat and hot water for the house. The house is biggish about 4500 sq feet we have 12 acres with the house and intend to plant willows on 5 acres

Can anyone let us know there experience with log wood burners questions are

1. Which brand or company would you recommend
2. How often does the burner need filing
3. Can they deliver heat and hot water to larger houses
4. What is your experience of the burner after say one or two years
5. Can we be self sustaining after we harvest our first willow crop in say 3 to 4 years
6. Do you save monies compared to oil/gas

any information on your experiences to date would be most appreciated I would love to chat with someone who has gone thru this journey with wood furnaces many thanks

woodlover

kippax wrote: »

Hello All

We are renovating an old farmhouse and as part of the project we want to be eco friendly and self sustaining in time regarding heat and hot water for the house.

Hi kippax.

There are some very good posts on log gasification boilers on boards.
Like yourself I am new to boards and am not sure how to find the post I was looking for. I have done some research on gasification boilers and I would expect any good system to cost at least 5k. I would strongly urge you to look at insulating to as high as standard as possible. This is the corner stone of eco living.

F.D

Any more updates rellig or teepee, Getting sick of spending money on oil now and seriously need to change we are running underfloor heating so its constantly on , i am considering a log gasification boiler and we have a farm so eventually will have a continous source of fuel, but in the mean time would you say you are saving much if you were to be running oil vs wood
Eg how much would the wood cost to get the same burn value of a 1000ltr of oil.
look forward to hear how you are getting on now

teepee

F.D wrote: »

Any more updates rellig or teepee, Getting sick of spending money on oil now and seriously need to change we are running underfloor heating so its constantly on , i am considering a log gasification boiler and we have a farm so eventually will have a continous source of fuel, but in the mean time would you say you are saving much if you were to be running oil vs wood
Eg how much would the wood cost to get the same burn value of a 1000ltr of oil.
look forward to hear how you are getting on now

Hi Fd ,

Artic load of logs is 1200 euro , last two years .

1000ltr of oil is 900 euros and lasts 4 monthish .

All relitive to the size of the house .

The thing about it is that with log boiler you can have your house roasting all the time ones you get it running right , and not feel guilty that your burning money with oil .
Unfortunately , due to the lack of work in Construction I have no choice but to imagrate as construction industry will never pick up here in the near future . Its a pitys as i finaly got the heating sorted in my house and the system has now paid for its self and my future heating costs would be relaiveley cost feel .
Never the less I would defienlty recomend the log boiler .

Teepee

teepee

teepee wrote: »

Hi Fd ,

Artic load of logs is 1200 euro , last two years .

1000ltr of oil is 900 euros and lasts 4 monthish .

All relitive to the size of the house .

Teepee

PHi Teepee, where do you get you logs from?

Please PM me

Cheers.

teepee

I generally get my wood supplies for free as i am a carpenter and i also get a odd tree to knock so i have never paid for my fuel sourse .

If you look up the coillte web site youll find it there also look up done deal or buy and sell .
If you go to a local sawmill they might do a deal on a bulk load all choped .

The key to good heat is the proper lenght log and most important is the moisture content my logs are usally around 15 to 18 percent moisture content i store the logs in the same shed as the boiler thus the boiler is also drying the logs with the exis heat .

It kills me having to leave the log boiler after all the hard work and researse i but in to it , I had alot of bads days with it at the start , as I had no one to turn to for advise buy after trail and error i got there .

Teepee .

Deleted User wrote: »

PHi Teepee, where do you get you logs from?

Please PM me

Cheers.