Headset, cranks set and rear sprocket advice sought

jozi

I haven't been changing chains regular enough and now get some nicely worn rings on the rear sprocket.

My crankset clicks due to play on the spline with the bottom bracket, it has been taken of spun around a few splines and tightened again but there' still clicking. Thinking maybe of getting a new bottom bracket and cranks set.

Finally, I'm tightening my headset every few days which can't be good, doesnt matter how tight I put the stems clamp bolts.

The bike in question is a Carrera KRaken LTD edition http://www.moredirt.co.uk/ratebike.php?id=4573 http://www.cyclechat.net/topic/71323-sold-carrera-kraken-ltd-edition-for-sale/

SRAM drive train, think it has a integrated headset? Not sure what to replace all the above with, there looks to be a whole range of parts for the above going very cheap right up to expensive.

bcmf

New chain and new cassette. Putting a new chain on a worn cassette will only highlight the worn gears
Sounds like a new Bottom Bracket. Cranks should be ok.

Headset!! There should be a make stamped on the top cover just underneath the stem.
If it is integrated it really shouldnt come loose.Could be you top cap needs a small tighten. Presumably metal forks.

seamus

Agreed with bcmf.

If you really want to replace the crankset, you should be able to get a shimano deore hollowtech BB & crank for €40 or €50 which will work fine.

To check for BB wear, hold onto one crank arm and try it move it in and out (towards the frame). Any play and it's scrwed. You'll also need to remove the cranks and spin the axle between your fingers. It should be smooth - it doesn't necessarily have to spin freely, so long as it's smooth. If it feels rough, it will need to be replaced shortly because most modern BBs simply can't be serviced.

Your headset shouldn't really come loose once the stem clamp is in place. Are you using the stock stem that came with the bike? Loosen both bolts, then tighten the top cap until there's no more play in the headset, then realign and tighten the stem again.

If your carrera is the same as mine, it's a no-name "integrated" headset in the frame. It's not a true integrated headset because it still has cups. I've replaced mine with with a BBB Cane Creek style headset. If you don't have a manual telling you what kind of headset you have, pop one or both cups out of the frame and bring it to an LBS who can measure the cup for you and give you a replacement.

victorcarrera

jozi wrote: »

... I'm tightening my headset every few days which can't be good, doesnt matter how tight I put the stems clamp bolts..

Remove the fork and check the bearings for wear.
Check that the steerer is not scored and that the stem is not warped from overtightening the clamp bolts, as this could cause the stem to slip back into this position after tightening.
If the steerer is damaged remove a headset spacer or two from underneath the stem and put them on top so that the stem clamp grips an unused part of the steerer and try it out

Not sure what to replace all the above with, there looks to be a whole range of parts for the above going very cheap right up to expensive

I think you may have an internal headset also known as semi integrated with pressed cups or races.
There are many different types so check it out here before you buy.

http://autobus.cyclingnews.com/tech/fix/?id=howfix_headtypes

jozi

Thanks folks. Quite possible I have scored the area where the stem clamps onto the fork. I'll pop a spacer or two from under the stem to the top, will check for wear as well when I do this. I may have over tightened it previously as you could feel a little resistance turning the handle bars, it would be back to a little play a day or so later. Looking at the link posted I have a Zero Stack or "Low Profile" there's definitely cups in there.

I don't think the bearing in the bottom bracket are gone, I've a feeling the spline or either the crank arm has worn. If I have the pedals horizontal and load them when I spin the front pedal to the back and load the pedals again there's a cracking noise. Appart from that I think it's all smooth.

Does a shimano cassette work/fit with the SRAM derailer? I had a quick look after I posted this morning and was going to opt for this http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=5213 and a new chain. Do I or should I replace the 3spd chainring as well (it's fixed to the crank arm)?

victorcarrera

jozi wrote: »

I don't think the bearing in the bottom bracket are gone, I've a feeling the spline or either the crank arm has worn. If I have the pedals horizontal and load them when I spin the front pedal to the back and load the pedals again there's a cracking noise. Appart from that I think it's all smooth.

Before you change the BB and or cranks, ensure the crank bolts are tightened to the specified torque. A torque wrench and good quality allen attachment are required to do this properly as it takes more force than you might think. Typically 38<42Nm for octalink BB and crank. If you don't have one a firm twist with a 25cm tommy bar should do it. From my own experience if you don't torque them they will come loose.

Does a shimano cassette work/fit with the SRAM derailer? I had a quick look after I posted this morning and was going to opt for this

Yes, provided it has the same number of sprockets as the existing one and that the number of teeth on the biggest sprocket is the same or at least within range of your current rear mech and chain set up.

jozi

I'll try tightening the BB bolts with something a bit bigger than a alen key tomorrow.

Any specific 9spd sprocket that comes recommended?