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Urgent question for turtle aquarium filling

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  • 08-12-2010 8:18pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,368 ✭✭✭


    Is Nutrafin, (given by petshop), the tap water conditioner enough for the aquarium or do I need to add anything else? Just checking before I fill the tank and turn on the filter to start the cycling. Just want to run it for a couple of weeks before getting the musks!!:)


Comments

  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 23,218 Mod ✭✭✭✭godtabh


    mumof2 wrote: »
    Is Nutrafin, (given by petshop), the tap water conditioner enough for the aquarium or do I need to add anything else? Just checking before I fill the tank and turn on the filter to start the cycling. Just want to run it for a couple of weeks before getting the musks!!:)

    read the instruction on it

    i think you usually add a bit every couple of days


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,368 ✭✭✭mumof2


    godtabh wrote: »
    read the instruction on it

    i think you usually add a bit every couple of days

    Thats the first thing I did, read the instructions, and it didn't help me answer my question.

    It says:
    To remove Chlorine - 5ml treats 38L
    To remove Chloramine - 10 ml treats 38L

    So which of the above is in my tap (mains) water? I presume Chlorine?

    Open to correction:D
    (however Im doing nothing at the moment as Ive seemingly got the wrong filter anyhow......)


  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 23,218 Mod ✭✭✭✭godtabh


    that sounds like water conditioner as opposed to a cycle product


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,368 ✭✭✭mumof2


    godtabh wrote: »
    that sounds like water conditioner as opposed to a cycle product

    Correct, your point being??:confused:

    (when the new filter and heater arrives I will fill the tank to run for the 2 weeks before adding the turtles - and I have every intention to feed them in a separate container!)


  • Registered Users Posts: 576 ✭✭✭Fishyfreak


    His point is that you have no ammonia source if you are using just dechlorinated water to cycle the filter!!

    Maybe you should buy a book first or do some propor research or you'll end up with two dead turtles.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,368 ✭✭✭mumof2


    Fishyfreak wrote: »
    His point is that you have no ammonia source if you are using just dechlorinated water to cycle the filter!!

    Maybe you should buy a book first or do some propor research or you'll end up with two dead turtles.

    Thats what I've been doing for the last 2 months, which also includes the reason being here on boards - FOR ADVICE ONLY!! Thanks.

    (Theres always one isn't there just to annoy you):mad:


  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 23,218 Mod ✭✭✭✭godtabh


    In fairness we are trying to answer your questions


    You need the basics right before you start anything


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,368 ✭✭✭mumof2


    godtabh wrote: »
    In fairness we are trying to answer your questions


    You need the basics right before you start anything

    I appreciate that, don't get me wrong. I just hate finding contradicting information online, then one just gets so confused and frustrated. I certainly don't want a dead turtle for my 8 yr old son to find in the morning!! I am doing as much as I can to obtain as much information to get the basics as you mention, before I start anything.

    All I have done at the moment is placed the aquarium (Juwel Rio 125) on the cabinet, washed the gravel and placed it into it and put some plastic plants in place for the turtles to hide and help reduce stress levels. The filter in the Juwel aquarium was the wrong one - when I was setting it up I noticed the air outlet valve was at the way top so this meant the water level had to be at the top, which is no good for turtles. yet the shop owner said, he sells these aquariums every day for turtle set ups!! Not sure how he does it.....
    Anyway, he is sending down a different heater (enclosed one), and a JBL 100 filter. I can always get a Fluval 4 to do the trick if its not enough.

    About Ammonia, I will get one of those aquarium water test kits to measure the levels, and change the water every 2 weeks or every week in the beginning. I presume a cycle will be enough ie not to take out all the water at once.

    Im taking notes so I can go back to them easier, as keeping stuff in Favourites is beginning to get difficult as there is so much info!!

    Food wise I was given Cichlid Mix by the shop owner, and have learned that they like worms, aquatic insects, duckweed, water lettuce, cabbage turnip and some meat too. No chicken!!!!

    Sorry post is long, but just putting ye all at ease, Im learning, and not jumping into the deep end.

    Thanks again to everyone who has given sound advice;)


  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 60,159 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wibbs


    All I can add is that after 30+ years of keeping turtles from juveniles to adults, I've never lost one by adding water straight from the tap or by not following a rigid cycling regime. IMHO and IME Temperature(inc basking area) and general cleanliness and diet are much more important(Plus in juveniles too strong a current can kill them as they're not strong swimmers). They're not fish and have a much wider range of environments in which they thrive. Hell some species(inc muds) have been found happily swimming in highly toxic and anerobic sewer outlets. Does this mean we can be lax? Hell no, but good luck in trying to keep levels as stable in a turtle tank as you would in the same size fish tank. Like I said they're not fish. Great if you can keep the levels low enough but mumof2 I'd not stress yourself too much.

    Rejoice in the awareness of feeling stupid, for that’s how you end up learning new things. If you’re not aware you’re stupid, you probably are.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,368 ✭✭✭mumof2


    Wibbs wrote: »
    All I can add is that after 30+ years of keeping turtles from juveniles to adults, I've never lost one by adding water straight from the tap or by not following a rigid cycling regime. IMHO and IME Temperature(inc basking area) and general cleanliness and diet are much more important(Plus in juveniles too strong a current can kill them as they're not strong swimmers). They're not fish and have a much wider range of environments in which they thrive. Hell some species(inc muds) have been found happily swimming in highly toxic and anerobic sewer outlets. Does this mean we can be lax? Hell no, but good luck in trying to keep levels as stable in a turtle tank as you would in the same size fish tank. Like I said they're not fish. Great if you can keep the levels low enough but mumof2 I'd not stress yourself too much.

    Youve hit the nail on the head:o Got 4 hrs sleep last night worrying about the filter I set up last night, whether it would work, because again its meant for a fish tank and ive had to make adjustments to make all connections fit in and under the few inches of water the musks swim in. not sure if the inlet pipe can be put at an angle (i havnt tried as i presumed i wud encourage air bubbles going into the outlet valve!)

    going to get a smaller basking light set up too instead of the one I was given which was for torts.

    swapping wrong test kit given for ammonia test kit.

    And getting last minute extra food (suggestions of varying products welcome):D

    Finally, when I have the whole set up done, I will post a picture including the turtles next Thursday!


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