A camera for the mountains, and how to protect it?

L31mr0d

Next Spring I hope to invest in a DSLR setup to bring with me onto the summits I should be bagging.

Currently I have a pretty good compact for my needs (Panasonic DMC-TZ5). For macro shots and close range photography it's fine, but pretty much none of the long distance horizon shots I take on summits are near as sharp and clear as they should be.

My requirements I guess would be, in this order:

• Durable and rugged: (it's going to be strapped to my chest, but I'd need it to not break from slight bumps when climbing or scrambling)
• Viewfinder: (is it possible to get a DSLR that can preview photos via the viewfinder?) I tend to be in direct sunlight and even the brightest screens don't cut the mustard. Also, as I'm away from a power outlet for days at a time, I'd prefer to not waste power on a large LCD.
• Small and light: I understand it's never going to be as light as compact, but weight is a major concern on a lot of my hikes, so even if a camera is only a few ounces lighter than the competition it could be a deciding factor.

I then would also like some advice on which lenses to use for shooting sharp images of mountain/alpine scenery that span onto the horizon. I also shoot a lot of macro photographs of the plant life I encounter.

What other ways can I use to protect the camera?

The weather here is either freezing cold (-30'c is common in the alpine) for the winter, humid and hot for the summer and rain, rain and more rain in the shoulder seasons (we get indian summers and the pineapple express). Pixel lines on my compacts screen have already died from being inside a humid tent overnight.

How do you deal with humidity? Also what cameras are best suited for operating in extreme cold?

Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.

Prenderb

I would consider a film SLR (and maybe a film scanner to go with it) given the considerations you're concerned about, something old and sturdy, k1000 type or something like that?

Edit: Sorry, that won't be light. Might be time for a "rugged" p&s

DaireQuinlan

Prenderb wrote: »

I would consider a film SLR (and maybe a film scanner to go with it) given the considerations you're concerned about, something old and sturdy, k1000 type or something like that?

Edit: Sorry, that won't be light. Might be time for a "rugged" p&s

I was about to suggest the same thing actually, an all-manual film slr, preferably the same brand as whatever DSLR you're shooting if you end up going the DSLR route, assuming you can share lenses. Something like a Nikon FM or similar with a 20mm or 24mm ais wouldn't be -too- bulky and would provide insurance against battery failure in the extreme cold and running out of juice after being out in the wilds for extended periods.

Hugh_C

I believe some of the Leica cameras are built with explorers in mind. Also one of the super Canons are great (G12?)

I've been to altitude with my old Nikon D70 twice, bear in mind that the higher you go, the heavier it seems, and up at 6000m you're so addled that it's hard to remember everything that comes second nature at sea level Last trip I brought a 24-85 (equiv 36 - 128mm) zoom which was pretty good as a walk around lens, the trip prior to that I brought an 18-200 VR which is overrated at the wide end. And at the long end come to think of it

In an ideal world I'd bring a bag of primes, but that just isn't practical up high.

Pombo

Wow that's quite a list but here goes:

L31mr0d wrote: »

Durable and rugged: (it's going to be strapped to my chest, but I'd need it to not break from slight bumps when climbing or scrambling)

Most decent DSLRs will survive slight bumps. However I'd avoid them whenever possible, especially to the front of the lens as it can seriously affect the focusing.

L31mr0d wrote: »

[*]Viewfinder: (is it possible to get a DSLR that can preview photos via the viewfinder?) I tend to be in direct sunlight and even the brightest screens don't cut the mustard. Also, as I'm away from a power outlet for days at a time, I'd prefer to not waste power on a large LCD.

All DSLRs are viewable through the viewfinder. In fact some older models cannot display the view through the backscreen.

L31mr0d wrote: »

[*]Small and light: I understand it's never going to be as light as compact, but weight is a major concern on a lot of my hikes, so even if a camera is only a few ounces lighter than the competition it could be a deciding factor.

The problem with this is that carrying a DSLRs is rarely a light task. Especially if you are out to do some serious photography, you have to consider carrying several lenses, the DSLR and possibly a tripod to get the best results. If you want a camera that is weather sealed and rugged (as it seems you do) then you will be carrying at least several pounds of equipment.

L31mr0d wrote: »

I then would also like some advice on which lenses to use for shooting sharp images of mountain/alpine scenery that span onto the horizon. I also shoot a lot of macro photographs of the plant life I encounter.

I shoot nikon myself and generally take a wide angle lens (like the tokina 11-16 2,8) and a short telezoom (the Tamron 17-50 2.8 is excellent or the 17-55 2.8 Nikkor is amazing if you can carry it). I also take my Sigma 105mm 2.8 Macro for wildlife and short telezoom action.

Add to all this my tripod for sharp landscapes and macro and I'm already carrying a small bag!

L31mr0d wrote: »

How do you deal with humidity? Also what cameras are best suited for operating in extreme cold?

Humidity can quickly ruin your camera and your lenses. I recommend keeping your camera in a sealed bag or something similar if it gets that bad inside your tent or else keep it outside in a protected bag.

L31mr0d wrote: »

Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.

Batteries die very fast in the cold. Keep your batteries warm and you should be fine. Maybe keep a spare or two in an inner layer and swap them around.

If you give me an idea of your budget I might be able to give you more specific advice.

EDIT: Didn't realize you were going to be summiting and doing real mountaineering! In that case maybe a 3/4 camera would be more appropriate? They are small and light and you can get electronic viewfinders for them.

Kintarō Hattori

http://canonfieldreviews.com/7d-1-weather-sealing/

I remember reading this article several months back and being impressed by how rugged the Canon cameras seemed to be. Of course the cameras he's using might not be the best for you OP but it does give an idea of just how weather sealed they are.

A lot of the newer medium level DSLRs are weather sealed and you can of course buy weather sealed lens too, so it might be worth having a quick gander at some manufacturers/review websites, compiling a list of which models are weather sealed, what weight they are and then whittling down the list.

Borderfox

TBH it sounds like something for one of the pro camera bodies, Olympus make really well sealed bodies that could cope with changes in humidity, dont know how they would cope with the cold for battery life. I use a Canon 1dmk3 and its built for those conditions, battery life is excellent too. I would agree with a film body too

CabanSail

As this is a specialty request, this thread is OK as stand alone, rather than being merged into the Gear Advice Sticky.

The problem is that the DSLR's that are weather sealed and most rugged are also the heaviest. The glass to match is the same. It is also not cheap as it's up in the Pro/SemiPro range you will be looking.

Sleepy

The Olympus OM system sounds like the best bet to me: small, light, some fantastic primes, very solid once you stear clear of the 10/20/30/40 which were developed for the mass market and you can get started in it very cheaply. I picked up an OM-2n with a 50 f1.8, 28 f2.8 and 135 f3.5 and a bounce-able flash earlier this year for about €100 all in.

Toby_2010

Peli cases are really tough!! I put my SLR into one!! its very very very tough!! waterproof too!

CCSL

Great cameras
Fully weather dust and snow sealed if you use the WR Lenses.
And good Quality photos.

The new K5 has just been launched and can be got online for under 1500 with a sealed Lens. The launch of the k5 will also bring down the k7 price so bargains to be had.

I have used one for over a year and in temps down to -10 last winter and no problems.

if you are not already tied into a brand might be an option.
I am upgrading to the K5 for Xmas and keeping my k7 as my second camera for shoots.

Specs on the K7

L31mr0d

Ok well in regards to budget lets start with a figure around €1500, for the camera and maybe 1 or 2 lenses.

For durability and ruggedness I'd sacrifice weight if needs be.

In regards to size, who currently makes the smallest full DSLR?

I'm not tied to a brand, but I'd always imagined my first DSLR would be a Canon for some reason. I've never heard anything bad about them when reading online. Plus, whenever I see an image that I like, I'll check its metadata and it's nearly always a Canon.

Also, I've noticed they don't make left handed DSLR's, which is a real pain (I'm more lefty than the average left handed person, holding a camera in my right hand has never felt natural). Are there any models that have the hand grips on both sides?

Promac

Canon are the most popular. A mate goes climbing on proper mountains (himalayas, etc) and brings a canon 350 dslr with him that is still in perfect nick after half a dozen trips.

That one's getting a bit old now but if your budget is 1500 you could upgrade to a 550dslr and get a couple of lenses. That'll give you a live view mode plus HD video.

cnocbui

Could you post some examples of the shots that are unsatisfactory? I am wondering if camera shake is an issue, but at altitude with good light I would have thought the shutter speed would be high enough to lessen the chances of that.

Weather sealed DSLR's are not cheap as they tend to be rugged with magnesium chassis and intended for pros. The new Olympus E5 body alone rrp is going to be about €1500. The weather sealed lenses to compliment it will set you back a packet.

You could go for a secondhandOlympus E3 which is the older model with the same build quality.

In terms of size, you might want to look at the Micro 4/3 (four thirds) cameras made by Panasonic and Olympus. The Panasonic GH2 is 394g compared to say a Nikon D7000 at 780g and Olympus E5 at 813g

Micro 4/3 cameras are not available weather sealed or with particularly rugged construction, however, there is a vague rumour that Olympus may be working on a pro-build quality M4/3 camera for release in early 2011.

According to this review of weather sealed DSLRs, the lightest is the Pentax K200D at 690g http://www.neocamera.com/article.php?id=weathersealed_dslrs

The reason people are recommending film cameras is that they are not as reliant on batteries as DSLRs, and at really low temperatures, even Li-ion batteries that power most DSLRs stop working, but if you keep a spare battery inside clothing you should be able to get by.

Sleepy already mentioned the Olympus OM system cameras and I would have to agree with him. Chris Bonnington used a fully manual OM1 on Everest and got great results. The OM1 is a really small and high quality SLR. It will still work if the battery for the meter packs up.

I use an Olympus OM4-Ti (35mm film) when I go skiing and have had no problems with it's batteries at sub zero temperatures. Results are good enough for me:



All that being said, I really don't think you need anything beyond a high-end P&S like a Panasonic LX5 or Canon S95. The lenses on those are perfectly good enough for your needs. The S95 weighs 193g too

Kintarō Hattori

Just to add I have the Pentax K7 myself and the kit 18-55mm lens that comes with that is weather sealed.

Burnt

As some gus have already pointed out, the mechanical 35mm slrs from
the early 80's are can be small robust and virtually immune to batteries
dying.

As for problems with humidity & moisture, I would suggest you bag you
camera is a ziplock bag or some of the water tight duffel bags you see
around, before entering you tent, along with some silica gel. And keeping
it there until the temperatures have equalised between the gear and the
tent. I would also say that some of the chemical hand warmers would be
useful or even the electric ones, to warm batteries etc...

It's not uncommon for astronomers to fit a ring of high impedance resistors
around the dew shield; similar to hood on camera lenses, of their telescope
to reduce moisture on the primary surface.

As a note on the older camera, it is possible to get your fingers/bear skin
frozen to the metal surface on the camera bodies. Thin gloves or a bit of vasaline can overcome this.