Large cabinet build. Am I doing it right?

seeing_ie

Hi All,

Looking to build a large, solid, freestanding storage cabinet for surf gear.

It has to look clean (it'll be in an apartment), and have no shelves so I can fit in boards and wetsuits. Was also hoping to make something that I could disassemble and take with me in the future.

Looking at approx 600/800/2000mm depth/width/height. Also planning on putting it on rollers so I can move it around.

Was planning on getting woodworkers.ie to supply and cut the panels (considering white melamine), and aim for something like what's described here (adapted to allow rollers to be attached underneath somehow).

Without shelves to provide structural support I was planning on using loads of 90degree shelf brackets inside.

Would it be better with two doors, or could I keep it simple with one large door (800mm wide) if stronger hinges were used? Any suggestions for the best hinges? What'd be the best latch to ensure a tight closing door?

Can't see any reason why this wouldn't work, but I have no woodworking experience apart from IKEA assembly (extensive), and this thing has to look fairly presentable:D

After all that, any suggestions for a reasonably priced off the shelf solution?

All advice, links, plans and slagging welcome.

fm

if putting doors on it would have to be 2@395 wide,1 800 door is far too wide and woud dropp.once the unit has a back fixed to the unit it should keep it rigid

seeing_ie

Thanks for the reply. Was hoping to get away with one big door if I used strong enough hinges and latch. Reason being this has to be as tidy looking as possible. Not sure that if I start trying to hang two doors how that'll turn out.

Also trying to keep it somewhat airtight. There'll be all sorts of damp & smelly football boots & wetsuits in this yoke. The dogs beanbag too probably.

Planning on using a solid back to the cabinet too.

seeing_ie

Anyone got any plans or links to plans for what I'm looking for?
At the moment I'm thinking:

1. base of 600depthx800wide, with castors bolted to the bottom.
2. side walls 1700mm standing on that.
3. roof (same size as base) sitting on the side walls.
4. back wall (1700 + twice thickness) then attached.
5. Same size panel for the front door, cut in half if I go for two doors.

Still hoping to go for one big door if enough heavy duty hinges are used.
If I have to go for 2 doors, should anything be added to the box?
I've seen two door wardrobes with a baton from top to bottom, on the inside behind the gap between the doors.
Is this necessary?

What's the best panel thickness to go for? Was thinking some kind of veneered mdf, as thick as possible, 26mm.

Should a thicker panel be used for the base?

What's the best way to attach all the panels together so that I can disassemble this thing if necessary? I'm hoping woodworkers.ie can put dowel holes on the edges, then I can assemble and add the 90degree shelf brackets inside for reinforcement. Should the brackets just be screwed in?
Can I get away without glueing?
Can they put veneer on the cut edges?

Lorra questions! Really appreciate any advice or hints and tips, fairly green when it comes to woodworking.

Hootanany

Ken is the man in Woodworkers he will talk you through it

seeing_ie

Thanks for that, I'm going to head down today, he'll be sorry he ever saw me:D

D.Craftsman

seeing ie. Is this still an active project? I can see a lot of mistakes waiting to happen.E.G One door 800 wide when open will probably make the unit front heavy.Dowel pegs weer designed to be glued in place as permanent joints.They can be used as guide pegs too but not both.A cabinet carcass must be rigid.When your door hinges it will shift the stress points.26mm MDF is not needed, 18 should be ok, chipboard is chipboard.The strip on the back of cabinet doors is called a closing or locking slip.Originally used to lock doors now used to hide bad fitting by closing the gap.... Lots more....

Black Bloc

Seeign.ie as others point out: a 800mm wide door is too heavy for the proposed cabinet and will pull it out of square. Made a similar mistake myself ten years ago. Built a double door cabinet 2000mm high and 1200mm wide out. The doors were made from ash veneered mdf trimmed with 50mm solid oak. The carcass was 22mm mdf and set against a fridge cabinet. The whole thing went off square. My solution was to build a narrow wine rack between it and a side wall to square it up. Hinges were not the problem here - 150mm stainless types. Too much weight. An alternative option was to cut corner braces (a kind of gusset) and fit them inside the cabinet to stop it moving. But the wine rack is more elegant and useful.

D.Craftsman

Hi Guys, just a thought as I read Blacks message.Does any body ever fit a back on the carcass? Basic cabinetmaking. The back braces the cabinet and holds it square when the doors are opened.It also adds to the appearance of the internal cabinet.

Black Bloc

Cabinet structures are either (a) carcass or (b) frame based. Different techniques. Almost all cabinets in modern homes/offices are carcass-based becasue of the ease of working with sheeting (panels). Some kithcen manufacturers don't fit backs to their carcasses if the units use pullouts for storage - cost saving. In any event a sheet of melamine coated hardboard is a cheap backing (nailed or stapled), washable and lends some rigidity for squareness. Carcasses can be pegged together using screws, dowels (precut ridged types are stronger), biscuits or special sunken fittings.

seeing_ie

Thanks for the replies folks.

Project is still ongoing. I was up at woodworkers.ie to see what kind of wood they had, and was put off a self-build because of the price of the wood (€200 was the quote).
I also couldn't be sure of getting a proper finish on the cabinet with my limited woodworking experience.
Went to ikea and picked up a cabinet for €169, but haven't assembled it yet and tbh think it'll be returned.

Anyone know where I could go and look at various secondhand freestanding cabinets and wardrobes?