train layout

sponge_bob

i recently purchased this hornby train set and allready my imagination is running away with it self. i have the track setup in my office which i don't really use so i pretty much have it for my trainset now. so i have an idea fo a layout. iam going to fix along the wall a little shelf about 6" deep starting at the table wher i have the train track set up (station 1), run it around 3 walls and have it finishing on another table (station 2) on the other side of the room. i can then lay one or two tracks along this shelf to join the stations and probably even widen the shelf a bit to make another station half way around.

a few questions about this design:
how far will the current travel along the track? there will be about 24-30 feet between my 2 stations.
how steep can i make my inclines? as i must raise it to get over a small trapdoor on the wall
will the trains loose power travelling that far from the power source?
and how will i compensate for this if it does?

Cookie_Monster

sponge_bob wrote: »

a few questions about this design:
how far will the current travel along the track? there will be about 24-30 feet between my 2 stations.
how steep can i make my inclines? as i must raise it to get over a small trapdoor on the wall
will the trains loose power travelling that far from the power source?
and how will i compensate for this if it does?

1) Depends a lot of the cleanliness of the track and the quality of track, locomotive and decoder. I reckon you will have to put at least 1 more connection in to keep power flow even.

2) 1 in 50 is the generally recommended max gradient, more if on curves. If you are only running short trains you may be able to get away with more but be careful not to stress the motors if too steep. Setup a few piece of track to form a long straight and test different grades.

3) see 1, DCC (digital) will cope slightly better than analogue but will probably still need another connection point. I'm not the best with electrics so maybe someone else can give you more detail about how to wire it. DCC wiring will be far simpler than analogue too.

See the model train info sticky for dedicated forums or the first link in my sig, its a great resource


EDIT: if buying extra locos make sure they are DCC or DCC ready and buy a decoder, you will not be able to run non DCC locos on this track. (they'll simply run at top speed all the time and damage the motors)

coolwings

I regard 12 feet away from the power connection point as a threshold distance, where a second power connection point may bring benefits.
But it depends on the load the loco is pulling.
By you get to 15 feet you will definitely see benefits.

sponge_bob

thanks for the reply guys.
it looks like iam going to need at least 1 if not 2 more power point connections in the track layout that i have in mind.
now how do i do this?
do i just put in 2 more power connection segments and loop the power from one section to the next?
or
do i have to use seperate transformers and control boxes for each time i add another power connection?

Cookie_Monster

You should only need one connector track. You can run power wiring under the track under the desk/shelf and connect it in places. You may need a control bus to distribute the power.

I reckon its fairly straightforward if you know how, unfortunately I don't

There are plenty of resources online to help you plan it. Have a google or a search of rmweb.co.uk or www.modelrailforum.com

coolwings

A connector track is the maker's solution.
You can also solder to the outside lower edge of the rails themselves if you are "handy".

The idea is to have copper electrical wire carrying the current to the steel rails in the distant zone, instead of expecting it to go there via the steel rails. The steel drops the voltage over distance, and trains slow down as they get farther from connection with power supply.

sponge_bob

coolwings wrote: »

A connector track is the maker's solution.
You can also solder to the outside lower edge of the rails themselves if you are "handy".

The idea is to have copper electrical wire carrying the current to the steel rails in the distant zone, instead of expecting it to go there via the steel rails. The steel drops the voltage over distance, and trains slow down as they get farther from connection with power supply.

so what you are saying is i could use connector tracks and just loop them from a single powerpoint (transformer/controller) using appropiate copper wire?

coolwings

sponge_bob wrote: »

so what you are saying is i could use connector tracks and just loop them from a single powerpoint (transformer/controller) using appropiate copper wire?

Yes.
The load is between 0.5 and 1.5 amps, so 5-15 amp twincore wire is fine.

Just dont overload the power supply unit, if it is near it's stated limit (output in amps printed on it) you might need a second one.

sponge_bob

would a climb of 480mm over 5m be to steep for a train with 5 wagons on it?
and do some trains pull better than others?

Cookie_Monster

sponge_bob wrote: »

would a climb of 480mm over 5m be to steep for a train with 5 wagons on it?

48cm over 500cm, about 1 in 10, way way to steep. 1 in 50 is ideal, 1 in 35 or 40 is pushing it

and do some trains pull better than others?

yes. diesels will pull better than steams as a general rule as the are usually all wheel drive, many steams are only 1 axle (loco driven steamers are usually only putting drive to the third axles on the bigger locos for example). newer trains are far far superior to older ones, better pickups, better motors, more powered axles.

size, weight, and number of driven wheels will all have an effect and nearly every loco pulls differently, though most modern ones are excellent all round anyway

crosstownk

For power distribution use a decent sized wire. I use 2 square as there is less loss over the length of the wire. It's a lot easier in a DCC set up as you are not limited to isolating points which can limit current flow. I also solder below the track so the wire aren't visible - I just use a snips to cut away the plastic but not on opposing sleepers.