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Water Damage - Repairs

  • 31-12-2010 4:49pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 788 ✭✭✭


    My daughter had a burst pipe in the attic: 3 queries arise:

    1. The concrete ground floor is tiled: the floors were covered in a pool of water for about a day: the tiles look ok, but people have told me that they will lift when the concrete dries out. Is it necessary (hope not) to replace the tiles or will they be ok?

    2. Some water streaked down the walls: Should the hardwall plaster be hacked away and the walls replastered or just allowed to dry out and repaint?

    3. Wiring: water dribbled out of some of the sockets and switches: again, should they be allowed to merely dry out or do we have to re-wire ? Some lights were flickering, so I turned to power off at the fuse board.

    I would greatly appreciate answers, as we are meeting the assessor on Tuesday morning.

    Water damage - I would not wish it on my worst enemy.

    Thanks again, if you can provide answers


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,746 ✭✭✭meercat


    on your 3rd point
    all electrical points which came into contact with moisture MUST be replaced
    this includes sockets,light switches,light fittings and fuseboard(if it got damp)
    the recommendation would also be, to replace the cables (in case of moisture ingress where cable is unseen)but that will be up to your assessor
    sorry for your troubles


  • Registered Users Posts: 788 ✭✭✭Poulgorm


    meercat wrote: »
    on your 3rd point
    all electrical points which came into contact with moisture MUST be replaced
    this includes sockets,light switches,light fittings and fuseboard(if it got damp)
    the recommendation would also be, to replace the cables (in case of moisture ingress where cable is unseen)but that will be up to your assessor
    sorry for your troubles

    Thank you, Meercat. One of my 3 queries answered.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,422 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    Unlikely that the tiles will lift. Floor tiles should be fitted with a concrete based adhesive (when fitting onto screed) and this won't be affected by water.

    On the hardwall, let it dry and see if its flaking. If the water trickled down the paint, then it will likely be fine once it dries.

    On the electrical fittings, let them dry out thoroughly and they will be fine. Replace them if you can't wait a couple of days before using them. It wont break the bank anyway. Again, cables if they are allowed to dry, will not be affected. Water will only affect the connections, i.e. where they enter sockets, switches, etc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,259 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    You can get a dehumidifier in to dry out the walls. The hardwall plaster should be fine once it dries out and is painted a few times. Tiles shouldn't necessarily lift. Get the place dried out and see where you are at then is my advice.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    dont let the insurance company push you around.

    Anything the water has damaged or marked needs replaced. Like for Like.

    Drying out
    replacing and treating wet timbers, electrics furniture and so on
    complete redecorating of room .

    If something bad arises after they pay out you will have little chance of a second payout.

    Make sure you sleep well at night in the thought that any damages has been repaired and never arise again.

    Im not saying screw them over. Im saying read the small print and YOU get what you are due of them.

    I can have a look if you want.


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    let the walls dry out FULLY,then paint on damp coat or stain block.

    stain block can be got in any hardware shop or builders providers and can be got in a normal paint can tin or else in aerosol form.

    Let that dry in for a day,and then you can repaint the walls as normal.

    If you dont use a stain block,then the water marks will just keep comming though the fresh paint that you apply.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    The moister on the backing of the plaster board can cause a bad case of MOLD and even black mold. I would at least open it up and ventilate it to insure total drying. Then put a patch with another section of plasterbaord, plaster and paint.

    The backing paper does not have a finished surface that tolerates wetting very well. If water was dripping through the plasterboard I would replace that sheet.

    There is also a chance they could be moisture damage to the fiberglass insulation behind which will rot if not opened out. This will only became apparent months down the line if not repared correctly.

    As stated your wiring will need inspected by an electrician to INSURE you will be safe from a fire in your home.

    Just painting over a problem does not make it go away.

    Make sure you get this done correctly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,259 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Contact a loss adjustor to do the assessing for you. They will ensure that you get the correct funds to have everything replaced correctly for you.


  • Registered Users Posts: 788 ✭✭✭Poulgorm


    Thanks to you all for your helpful replies. The wet plasterboard ceilings and wet insulation all have to go. As will any wet plasterboard on studwork partition walls.

    Hopefully, everything else can stay, after a thorough drying out. The wiring and electrical fittings - I will have to be guided by the electrician and assessor on this one.

    The hardwall plaster on the block walls: I think that we will leave them dry out thoroughly and use stain block, followed by re-painting.

    Hopefully, the tiles on the concrete floors will be ok, after drying out.

    I am trying to get out of the mess with the least amount of hassle.

    Thanks again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,259 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Just been called out to a vacant property today after a burst pipe. The entire house is completely ruined.

    The following will need replacing not to mention the redecorating costs.
    All electrical fittings
    all plasterboard walls
    all ceilings
    all floors
    all bathroom tiling
    all furniture
    kitchen
    skirting
    architrave
    coving
    loft insulation
    all white goods & appliances.

    The list is absolutely endless. Its amazing the amount of damage that can be done as a result of a 1/4' hole in a pipe if left unattended

    Will have to dry the house out to see what can be done with the plasterboard concrete walls.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8 emmosea


    Interesting thread. We had a flood resulting from a burst pipe in the attic 3 days before Christmas. We had the insurance assessor out this morning, who advised us to get a builder in to give an estimate of the costs of the repairs. What I would like to know is whether or not I should employ an independent assessor. These guys charge 10% of whatever the insurance company pays out, and I am wondering is whether this is worth the money. Anybody got any views, observations or advice?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 318 ✭✭brendankelly


    You are lucky to have insurance cover. I am doing a job similar for a family member. All the plasterboard and insulation has to go. No insurance and no money. AND I have another to do next week. Same story no insurance and no money. On the bright side I am getting a lot of prayers said for me which I might be glad of when I hang up the trowel and Hawk.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 789 ✭✭✭650gs


    !00% get an independent assessor insurance company's have been hit hard the past few years and are trying to save save and save so will cut you back no matter what and if the builder is not a specialist you could end up not getting the job done right and you cant go back after the claim has settled looking for more.
    An assessor will know what needs to be changed and will also more than likely know the assessor for your insurance company too.
    Most insurance company's are using a panel of builders themselves and only ask you to get a quote to see if its cheaper, and the 10% will be well covered Oh its plus vat remember that.
    If you need a good assessor that's not going to screw the insurance company and is on the board so well liked pm me and I will pass a number.


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