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Scrim or Paper Tape?

  • 11-01-2011 8:46pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,259 ✭✭✭


    Hi

    I have to replace a ceiling in a water damaged house. I'm just wondering, what's the best product to use on the internal corner between the ceiling and the top of the wall. Would it be scrim tape, or the Gypsum paper tape?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    Either product will do the job its just depends how good your taping and jointing skills are. If your not very confident the paper would be an easier product to use as the scrim tape takes an extra coat of gyproc. Remember less is more with gyproc filler for taping and jointing


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 950 ✭✭✭Dupont


    if your skimming ceiling i would use scrim but if taping joints just use paper
    tape


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,259 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    I'll only be jointing and taping. Want to avoid skimming if I can at all.

    Paper it is so.

    Whats the story with application? Stick on a bit of promix, apply the tape to it and then fill over it again?

    Not like srim, which is self adhesive.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    when you put the paper on you need a layer of the gyproc filler on the joint, put the paper on then and press it in with a 2inch filling knife so it bonds correctly. When the gyproc is set giv it a light sand apply another of gyproc let that set, sand it again and apply a third coat of gyproc if necessary. Its all best applied with a 12inch filling knife designed for taping and joining. The main thing when sanding is to make sure not to sand down to the paper or through the paper either


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,259 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Ta.

    Is there any benefit to wetting the tape down before applying it?

    I have a 6" blade at the mo. Will I use this for setting the tape, or just get a 2" one? I will need to get the 12" one anyway.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    ya you can wet the paper.it seems to make it easier to apply it. No buy a 2inch knife to press the paper in. Use the6inch knife to remove the bulk of the gyproc you apply. Use the12knife to apply the gyproc and also to feather it out. The heavier you apply the gyproc the longer it takes to set in between coats so less is more and also by removing the bulk of what u apply means it will set a lot quicker and wil be less sanding also


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,259 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Me again.

    I've got both of these products. Gyproc promix Finisher
    clip_image002_000.jpg

    And Jointing Compound
    joint_filler2.gif

    The Promix goes on quite well and is good and smooth, but it can take too long to dry, and I have to wait even longer

    but I find that when I mix up the jointing compound it seems to be drying out too quickly, as in when I'm working it on the wall, it tends to clump together, and when I'm scraping off excess etc... it tends to clump together and is fast becoming a pain.

    I have a fairly wet mix, and any wetter i think it'll fall off the hawk when working. Too thick and well........ self explanatory.

    Am i doing something wrong here, or can someone else help me shed some light on this?

    Ta


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 950 ✭✭✭Dupont


    yeah the promix takes ages to dry.i use it for filling before painting and usually do it the day before. i have only used the joint filler for sticking up cornice and it will probaly start to stiffen in over an hour but if you put it on a wall it starts to dry out instantly.if your using it over plasterboard the paper is probaly soaking it up but if your using it over paint or plaster you have to uni-bond first. if its over plaster board i would try dampen surface first with sponge and then aplly joint filler but i wonder would it stick ok???


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