Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

OK to insulate around sockets/switches in dry lining?

  • 15-02-2011 7:57pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 3,411 ✭✭✭


    I live in an old dry lined cottage. The job was done in 1997 so it consists of non insulated plasterboard on studs. The cavity between the old wall and the dry lining is about 5 inches (looked down into it from attic today).

    I notice slight drafts around where sockets and switches are placed. Is it ok to stuff the back of these with a bit of fibreglass?

    Maybe if I put in a bit of plastic such as a bin liner to go against old wall to keep dam pff fibreglass and then a bit of fibreglass pressed between that and the back of each socket???

    Would this be ok? If not what would you recommend?

    Many thanks


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    dnme wrote: »
    I live in an old dry lined cottage. The job was done in 1997 so it consists of non insulated plasterboard on studs. The cavity between the old wall and the dry lining is about 5 inches (looked down into it from attic today).

    I notice slight drafts around where sockets and switches are placed. Is it ok to stuff the back of these with a bit of fibreglass?

    Maybe if I put in a bit of plastic such as a bin liner to go against old wall to keep damp off fibreglass and then a bit of fibreglass pressed between that and the back of each socket???

    Would this be ok? If not what would you recommend?

    Many thanks

    The bit I have put in bold puzzles me as if u can see down then you have a fire hazard: the drylining should be sealed all they way around
    however in this case it may have been done for super ventilation if the walls are v damp


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,411 ✭✭✭dnme


    Carlow52 wrote: »
    The bit I have put in bold puzzles me as if u can see down then you have a fire hazard: the drylining should be sealed all they way around
    however in this case it may have been done for super ventilation if the walls are v damp

    When I go up into the attic and crawl over to the outer edge, just before facia/soffet, there's a gap that I can shine a lamp down. This is the cavity between old wall and dry line.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    dnme wrote: »
    When I go up into the attic and crawl over to the outer edge, just before facia/soffet, there's a gap that I can shine a lamp down. This is the cavity between old wall and dry line.

    okay which means that if u have a fire in the void due to say a faulty socket switch the fire can progress into the attic space/roof unimpeded.

    AFAIK this is not acceptable building work as per the fire regs but it may have been done as I say for super ventilation of very damp walls so sealing it up may mean that you drown in the damp:D

    I am reluctant to tell u seal it up so perhaps a few mains powered smoke alarms in the attic space over the 5" void....

    On the sockets, I presume they are set into drylining boxes so I would take off the sockets and seal the holes/backs with just enough intumescent sealer.

    there is also a product used to make external junction boxes water and air tight, I forget what its called


Advertisement