Can you wire one of these lights to a standart three pin plug?

Swift66

Can you wire one of these lights to a standart three pin plug?


LTC2DD384P Name CFL Bulb 38W 4Pin Dimensions Height 3 cm x Width 20 cm x Lenght 20 cm Energy Saving Watt/Voltage 38W GR10q 4-Pin 3500K 230V Description CFL bulb with slim square low profile design. The square shape provides uniform distribution of light, with no shadows at either end and no dark points. This bulb is ideal for low-profile wall and ceiling luminaries. This bulb could be used only in lamp with 4-Pin socket.


Cheers

jeepers101

Thats just a lamp. You'll need a luminaire to put the lamp in before you wire it to a plug. I really cannot think of a reason why you'd want to do this though.

meercat

what fitting is it in?
the simple answer is yes
put a 3amp fuse in the plug

perry stanley

Yes , but change the plug top fuse from 13 to 5. You should know that in the event of your rcd/elcb tripping, and knocking all your sockets out, this light will 'go dark'.

Bruthal

perry stanley wrote: »

Yes , but change the plug top fuse from 13 to 5. You should know that in the event of your rcd/elcb tripping, and knocking all your sockets out, this light will 'go dark'.

Why not a 3 amp fuse?
Anyway the lamp itself wont work being connected to a lead and plug, you need the luiminare fitting with its starter/choke etc, which can be connected to a flex with a plug fitted to it.

indie armada

that lamp wont work without the proper gear to run it. im not sure what would happen if you put 220v straight to that lamp but even to do so you would need a prewired lampholder. easiest way to get one of those running on a fly lead is to connect it to an electronic ballast with the proper lamp holder. the cheaper option with the choke, that robbie mentioned is just as easy if you know how to wire it. choke is about 6 euro, lampholder is about 2 euro.......the electronic ballast is about 3 times the price but a doddle to wire.

Bruthal

indie armada wrote: »

that lamp wont work without the proper gear to run it. im not sure what would happen if you put 220v straight to that lamp but even to do so you would need a prewired lampholder. easiest way to get one of those running on a fly lead is to connect it to an electronic ballast with the proper lamp holder. the cheaper option with the choke, that robbie mentioned is just as easy if you know how to wire it. choke is about 6 euro, lampholder is about 2 euro.......the electronic ballast is about 3 times the price but a doddle to wire.

It would depend which of the 4 terminals the 230v was connected to. The tube has 2 heating filaments and so 2 pins are connected to one element, and other 2 are to the other. If 2 that are connected to a filiment are connected to the 230v, then the filament will be burned out straight away probably acompanied by a nice pop sound. If one pin from each filamant is connected to the 230v then nothing will happen.

indie armada

if the op is looking for one of these to function as a site light, thorsman do a 38 watt and a 55 watt in both 110v and 220v.
@ robbie....ive never had a reason to wire a 2d lamp that way so ill take your word for it
we keep all the stuff like the lampholders, gear and cable ect but the cheapest option would be to buy a 2d fitting and wire a fly lead onto it.
however the bulb shown by the op is a 38watt and those fittings are harder to come by and more exspensive then the 16/28 watt versions.

Bruthal

indie armada wrote: »

@ robbie....ive never had a reason to wire a 2d lamp that way so ill take your word for it

Me either, but i never wired a plug and flex to each end of a 6 inch nail, but i can safely assume what would happen if i did:D