zero in your rife scope in Two Shots

smokin ace

dont know if this has been posted here before or how well it works but it might come in very handy some time if it gives bull easy or do any of you do it this way and how do it work for you
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiOpQY2ORo4&feature=relmfu

clivej

I thought that's how everyone did it. :rolleyes:

smokin ace

clivej wrote: »

I thought that's how everyone did it. :rolleyes:

i would only imagine this would work if the rifle was extremely secure to a bench or vice of some sort as not to move because if the first shot is slightly off it would not zero right and the further the shooter is from the target i would imagine the harder it would be unless there was a high powered scope being used maybe i am way off

Cass

Its not actually zeroing the rifle as much as it is re-checking your existing zero. As clivej said though i assumed everyone done this when cheking their zero.

Plus if it were me brfore the start of the season i would not do it with just two shots. I would make sure the barrel is warm and fouled then use two shots without adjusting to make sure its not the cold barrel or clean barrel causing the shot to drop, go right, left, etc.

arrowloopboy

When the brother got "our":Dfirst stalking rifle ,an asshole in Gorey charged him for a box and a half of .308s to zero her in,worst days work he ever done;););)

Cass

Any rifle can be zeroed with 3 shots max.

Simply put on the mounts, rings and scope. Ensure all are levelled and squared. Have the bolt out and looking through the barrel you get the target central in the bore of the rifle. Once there clamp it and then look at the target through the scope. Adjust the scope so that the crosshairs match up to the point of aim of the barrel. Check the two are relatively close and that the rifle has not moved in the rest/clamp.

Replace bolt an fire a shot. Here is where the 1/2" or 1" grid targets come into their own. Measure the distance from the point of aim to the actually point of impact. Adjust your scope as necessary. Fire another shot with the rifle still clamped. You should now be in or very close to the "bull". Make any last/final adjustments of the scope and fire one last shot. You should now be in the bull.

Unclamp the rifle and fire about 2-5 shots to make sure the results are consistant. Give all the screws of the scope, rings, etc a quick check to make sure they are tight, and you're good to go.

I have used this method many, many times and it has yet to let me down. No need for laser pointers, shot savers, and any other expensive equipment. Takes a few minutes longer without the fancy gadgets, but works.

patsat

Ezridax wrote: »

Any rifle can be zeroed with 3 shots max.

Simply put on the mounts, rings and scope. Ensure all are levelled and squared. Have the bolt out and looking through the barrel you get the target central in the bore of the rifle. Once there clamp it and then look at the target through the scope. Adjust the scope so that the crosshairs match up to the point of aim of the barrel. Check the two are relatively close and that the rifle has not moved in the rest/clamp.

Replace bolt an fire a shot. Here is where the 1/2" or 1" grid targets come into their own. Measure the distance from the point of aim to the actually point of impact. Adjust your scope as necessary. Fire another shot with the rifle still clamped. You should now be in or very close to the "bull". Make any last/final adjustments of the scope and fire one last shot. You should now be in the bull.

Unclamp the rifle and fire about 2-5 shots to make sure the results are consistant. Give all the screws of the scope, rings, etc a quick check to make sure they are tight, and you're good to go.

I have used this method many, many times and it has yet to let me down. No need for laser pointers, shot savers, and any other expensive equipment. Takes a few minutes longer without the fancy gadgets, but works.

Good advice erzi...I use the same technique except I don't use a vice I just use a bi-pod and back bag.

What kind of vice could you use to clamp the rifle whilst still being able to shoot it comfortably???

Cass

I actually do not place the rifle into a rifle clamp, such as the ones used when cleaning or working on the rifle. When i say clamp i mean to have the gun rested on a front rest, even a bipod, and the back well secured in a sand bag, etc.

I have a front "sand bag" that goes on my Caldwell rest and it is purposely made so the rifle cannot twist or move and is very tight against the stock. It is half inch thick soft rubber, with a soft velvet type cloth stitched around it so as not to mark my stock.

There is nothing worse than setting everything up and just as you move in to look through the scope the rifle moves, cants, etc. Its a simple technique, but honestly the best. Holds very true to the K.I.S.S. method.

GixxerThou

arrowloopboy wrote: »

When the brother got "our":Dfirst stalking rifle ,an asshole in Gorey charged him for a box and a half of .308s to zero her in,worst days work he ever done;););)

was it zeroed when he had finished??

arrowloopboy

GixxerThou wrote: »

was it zeroed when he had finished??

For a little while,bases and rings weren't properly together.

Tackleberrywho

arrowloopboy wrote: »

For a little while,bases and rings weren't properly together.

That guy had THE Gaul to charge for box and a half of ammo because he did not cop that the POI was shifting due to mechanical error?:eek::eek:

deerhunter1

clivej wrote: »

I thought that's how everyone did it. :rolleyes:

yep for the last 37yrs;)

GixxerThou

arrowloopboy wrote: »

For a little while,bases and rings weren't properly together.

Jaysus I dont believe ya! Nobody could be as ignorant as that....:D

arrowloopboy

GixxerThou wrote: »

Jaysus I dont believe ya! Nobody could be as ignorant as that....:D

Where did you serve your time G ?:eek:

gunhappy_ie

Is it just me so..... but I actually like usng more than 2-3-5 even 7 shots to zero.....

deerhunter1

gunhappy_ie wrote: »

Is it just me so..... but I actually like usng more than 2-3-5 even 7 shots to zero.....

Its just you:rolleyes::D

It wasn't me!

gunhappy_ie wrote: »

Is it just me so..... but I actually like usng more than 2-3-5 even 7 shots to zero.....

Nah, I like shooting the damn thing, and I figure one shot from a potential group doesn't tell me where the centre of that group will be. Now, three shots will get me pretty damn close, but for me it's more like six minimum. Three shot group to find centre, adjust, three shot group to confirm. If there's more adjustment required, then just one or two shots might be enough, but typically it's groups of three. Zeroing is as good an excuse for valuable trigger time as any, after all.

GixxerThou

arrowloopboy wrote: »

Where did you serve your time G ?:eek:

Where did I serve my time or where did I learn about guns??? The answer is not the same to both questions

Tackleberrywho

I know a guy who does a 1 shot group.

Gun in Vise clamped top and bottom
Fires shot from bore-sighted rifle, adjusts and that's it.

I plan (when I have my own shed sorted) to do same.

Any other shots for game, I hate punching paper for the sake of it.

Currently I do a 3-5 shot zero.
I wish I could do it in less;)

johnner1

GixxerThou wrote: »

Where did I serve my time or where did I learn about guns??? The answer is not the same to both questions

let me have the first guess;)

Prison and the FCA:D:p

GixxerThou

johnner1 wrote: »

let me have the first guess;)

Prison and the FCA:D:p

LOL fortunately Ive managed to resist the temptation to try both!

Tackleberrywho

GixxerThou wrote: »

LOL fortunately Ive managed to resist the temptation to try both!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oq7MxmCBoyA