triton shower electrics...

mygti

hi peeps....i am in the middle of revamping my bathroom ...i have a 7.5kw (230v)triton shower.....mains...i am thinking of buying a 9.5k (240v) ....is it just a matter of rewiring the new one(240v) or do i have to do something else....please help:cool:

meercat

you probably need 10sq twin and earth cable
most older installations used 6square twin and earth
it should have an isolating switch
and also must be protected by 40amp rcbo at the main fuseboard
check that there is a 63amp fuse in the main fuseboard
it is important to check the main cable size feeding the fuseboard too
seek an electrician if you are unsure

Solair

Just one point:

The voltage is determined by the ESB's supply to your home and it will be 220-230V, nominally 230V.

Unless there's something wrong with your line which is causing low voltage, that does not change it is always 230V 50Hz.

240V 50Hz is the old British standard.

220V was used in all of Europe, including the Republic of Ireland while 240V was used in the UK, Australia, NZ and a few other former colonies.

CENELEC (the European standards body for electrical stuff) compromised by creating a 230V nominal standard and a phase-in period which allowed power companies to adjust their supplies as and when transformers were naturally replaced, rather than having to tweak everything in one go.

Australia and NZ joined Europe on the 230V switch-over too.

If your supply voltage is closer to 220V (sometimes it can be less) e.g. if you're on a rural long line, then heating appliances e.g. showers, will not output quite as much heat as they would at 230V. It's a pretty minor difference and if your supply voltage is so low that it's causing problems then you really should get ESB to do something about it.

Bruthal

Solair wrote: »

Just one point:

The voltage is determined by the ESB's supply to your home and it will be 220-230V, nominally 230V.

Unless there's something wrong with your line which is causing low voltage, that does not change it is always 230V 50Hz.

In the real world, the voltage will vary a little from 230v i would think. The nominal voltage supplied is 230v, so this is the midpoint around which the voltage can vary slightly, either up or down. It automatically varies through tap changes in 38kv transformers to compensate for load changes, or at least it used to anyway on the 38kv transformers.

Anyway all the OP said was the new shower was 9.5kw(240v). It could be rated 9.5kw at 230v, we did not see its specs so cant say.

But at 230v, a 9.5kw(240v rated) load would be 8.7kw, slightly lower like you said. But even if the voltage at the MCB board is 230v, it will reduce a little as the shower is switched on anyway, not stay fixed at 230v. And the voltage right at the shower terminals will be slightly less again.

My voltage here is usually a little above 230v. 237v the last time i measured i think. And switching on the shower reduced it by 3v at the MCB board i think it was.

sparcocars

robbie7730 wrote: »

In the real world, the voltage will vary a little from 230v i would think. The nominal voltage supplied is 230v, so this is the midpoint around which the voltage can vary slightly, either up or down. It automatically varies through tap changes in 38kv transformers to compensate for load changes, or at least it used to anyway on the 38kv transformers.

Yeah still like that on the 38 kv transformers. Motor controlled tap changer that will vary the voltage throughout the day to compensate load.

RoundyMooney

sparcocars wrote: »

Yeah still like that on the 38 kv transformers. Motor controlled tap changer that will vary the voltage throughout the day to compensate load.

OLTCs are used throughout the transmission system, but it's only a 20% bandwidth. Might seem a lot, but at the plugtop, no noticeable difference. The control is multiplies by the regulation @ 110 level, ofc.

@OP; 230, 240, makes no odds.