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Newbie restoration. General advice needed

  • 08-03-2011 8:41pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,412 ✭✭✭


    I bought this boat last Saturday. I am getting it towed to my place on March 19th hopefully. I have never owned a boat before but have plenty of experience rowing lake boats. I live on the shores of Lough Arrow and Lough Key so I am well placed to start enjoying the water. I think I will take the year to work on this boat and hopefully get it into the water next year although you never know, I might get some late summer use out of it if the restoration goes well.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=150906&stc=1&d=1299613037

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    I am hoping to use this on inland waterways for overnighting and day trips. I realise I have to get an engine but I will worry about that later down the road. So for now, I have some general questions that I would be grateful for any help with. Money is very tight so I really need to save every penny I can.

    1. First Step, get the fibre glass stripped back to bare. How do I go about this? Is soda blasting the only game in town? Could I do that myself if I hired a compressor?

    2. The trailer doesn't look the best. Would you try and alter / clean it or scrap it and buy another?

    3. Any tips on planning an interior re-fit? I need some basic starter advice here. Stuff like what type of timber to use for frames etc, how to join timber to fibre glass.

    4. Any tips on planning a kit fitting. I want to recable the steering, throttle, might want to wire in a stereo, sounder, gps etc. I think now is the time to have a plan for this - is this wise?

    5. Painting. Let's assume I have fibreglass stripped back. Where do I start? Do I use a primer? What products should I use, how should I apply them?

    Sincere thanks for any help. Hopefully this thread may be of use to others also.


Comments

  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,337 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Hi dnme,

    1) The paint looks so bad on it I think a good power washer will take most of it off and clean the boat at the same time :D and then start sanding.

    2) The law have got very strict on trailers and towing it will have to be roadworthy, best to get someone in the know to have a good look at it, even if it does not look the best it may be just cosmetic.You could think of mooring the boat would not be too expensive for a boat that size.

    3) Most of the work could be done in marine ply,if you want to use some hardwood there is lots to pick from I use iroko,mahogany and oak and coat it in epoxy resin to seal it and help with fixing it to fiberglass, if it is going to be in sunlight it also has to be varnished for uv protection.

    4) I get my steering systems here http://www.marineparts.ie/engine-systems/steering/steering-systems/2900-standard-steerflex-steering-system.html
    Don't buy the throttle gear, when you get the engine they should come with it or at least you will know what ones to get. The wiring can wait till the end.

    5) When painting fiberglass you will use a two part primer and one part top coat I use Toplac by international. To apply I use the roll and tip method
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4NKrw8iuQRs

    Hope this helps a bit, take your time and you will get there:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,412 ✭✭✭dnme


    Fergal, many thanks again.

    1. Is it ok to use a conventional paint scraper to remove flaking etc?

    3. How do you join wood to fibreglass? Say I want to fir a little stove unit cupboard. I would build this on a timber frame. Now in a kitchen at home, that frame would be pine lats, what would it be on a boat? (is this where the hardwood you refer to might be used?). How would I attach the timber frame to the fibreglass walls / floor?

    5. Two part primer? Do you mean 2 coats or mixing two different liquids together then painting that on?

    5. Roll & Tip method. The video you linked has no audio so I don't really understand the point? Roller and then brush? Why is that ? Why not just roller or just brush?

    Many thanks


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,337 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    I don't think your gelcoat looks too good so you should be ok with a paint scraper, if you were worried about scratching a good gelcoat use a plastic scraper.

    If you want the wood to last go with hardwood you could use pine to save a few € and if the cabin is kept dry it might last a while.Fiberglass resin will stick to wood, on most boats you will find fixing blocks just bits of wood fixed to the boat with fiberglass cloth that give a strong point to fix to.

    The primer is one you mix.

    The roll and tip method gets rid of any lines and gives a smoother finish, I use a roller and a foam brush.
    Here is a nice girl to tell you how to do it :D
    http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xdqe0r_howto-roll-and-tip_lifestyle


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,412 ✭✭✭dnme


    Yea you're not wrong, she is nice:rolleyes:

    I'll have to get myself a decent orbital sander. Tell me Fergal, how do fittings like hinges etc work with fibreglass? Is it the same as wood as in drill and screw them or perhaps bolt them?


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,337 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Fiberglass is not great at holding screws, where screws are used you will more than likely find a wooden fixing block to screw into, only use stainless steel screws and if coming from the outside in put a bit of silicone them. Bolts work well too just use big washers to spread the load.
    If you are going to get an orbital sander get one with a variable speed so when it comes to buffing it wont burn the paint.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,412 ✭✭✭dnme


    Fergal, move to Sligo will ya :D


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,337 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    A sure with the internet I am only down the road.:D
    Here is something you could make, when down it make the seats into a double bed and when up it works as a table.

    bostonwhaler280outrage_table.jpg

    I see the boat is full of water,if it keeps water in it should keep water out:)
    You should see a bung or two like this at the back of the boat to let the water out. DON'T FORGET TO PUT IT BACK WHEN YOU LAUNCH THE BOAT :eek:
    bung-plugs.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,412 ✭✭✭dnme


    Re first pic (seats and table). Looks beautiful. Is it all fibreglass or just white cushions?

    Re - the cabin. It's fairly flimsy as in thin. Would it be feasible to re-enforce it to allow a person lie up on it?

    I dont think my boat has draining plugs. Before we tow her home, I will bail (or is it bale) her out. I might create a draining plug as part of the restoration and also I am hoping to get a cabin cover made for her.


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,337 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    The photo is only to give you an idea, you could make yours out of plywood and just put a lip around your seats for it to sit on when you take the pole away.
    you can see it better here.

    81258_10.jpg

    60588_8.jpg

    I would say the cabin is fine even if the fiberglass is only 1/2" thick it will be quite strong unless it has a crack in it.

    Instead of bailing (derives from the word baile which is an early name for a bucket or pail) her out just put a hose in it and siphon it out, let gravity do all the work.:)

    If you are on facebook I can send you a link of guy who is doing up an old cabin cruiser.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,412 ✭✭✭dnme


    Fergal, there's no way the fibreglass on my boat is 1/2 inch thick. It's much thinner on the cabin and bulkhead wall (at least I think it is). It can flex etc with a firm push.

    Not on facebook but I can do, please do send that link.

    Many thanks


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  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,337 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    There maybe a week link somewhere could be a rotten timber in the frame, I am sure you will find something when you get it.Even 1/4" will hold your weight.

    Here is that link.

    http://www.facebook.com/tiernanroe


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,412 ✭✭✭dnme


    Fergal or anyone.

    Aldi air tools

    Is this puppy any good to me vis a vis boat and soda blasting?


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,337 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    It might work with the spot blaster kit but not 100% handy bit of kit for €99.99 you could also spray paint the boat if you get brave :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,412 ✭✭✭dnme


    fergal.b wrote: »
    It might work with the spot blaster kit but not 100% handy bit of kit for €99.99 you could also spray paint the boat if you get brave :)

    Fergal, what's it lacking? Is it low on cfm or bar? What would you need ideally for a decent soda blast?


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,337 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    It has plenty power just not sure about the spot blaster kit, you may have to keep filling it up every min to do the boat where with my one it can hold 5 gallons at one time,also I am not sure if the nozzle will work with soda, it should but as I have not used it I can't say it will.

    5_gallon_portable_moveable_sandblaster.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,412 ✭✭✭dnme


    fergal.b wrote: »
    I would say the cabin is fine even if the fiberglass is only 1/2" thick it will be quite strong unless it has a crack in it.
    k

    Hi fergal and any others,

    I have started work on the boat. The fibreglass on the cabin is literally like 2-3mm thick. Nowhere near half inch or quarter inch. Am I dealing with a lemon or is this normal?


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,337 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    I wouldn't worry about it, thats the way it was built, like the panel on a car very thin but strong to a point. If you want you could always add more fiberglass cloth and resin on the inside to toughen it up.
    All boats are lemons, if you buy one for €1 or €100.000000 new or old they are all lemons and will suck you dry.:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,412 ✭✭✭dnme


    You da man as always.

    We got it to Sligo on Saturday (towed from Birr). I started on her today removing all the many bits and pieces bolted to the fibreglass. The previous owners lots of non galvanised screws that rusted in. I have an angle grinder, a dremmel, a drill and a good head. I'm getting the fixtures and fittings off one by one. Plus the boat is outdoors - it is a great pleasure being outside in this weather, radio on, dog for company and doing something I thoroughly enjoy.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5 boating


    dnme wrote: »
    You da man as always.

    We got it to Sligo on Saturday (towed from Birr). I started on her today removing all the many bits and pieces bolted to the fibreglass. The previous owners lots of non galvanised screws that rusted in. I have an angle grinder, a dremmel, a drill and a good head. I'm getting the fixtures and fittings off one by one. Plus the boat is outdoors - it is a great pleasure being outside in this weather, radio on, dog for company and doing something I thoroughly enjoy.



    DNME
    GOOD LOOK WITH THE PROJECT IT WILL GET THERE IN THE END AND YOU WILL ENJOY IT WITH THE FRUITS OF YOUR OWN HARD WORK


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