Witnessmenow can Jtag too (kinda)

witnessmenow

I had a Jtagged Jasper that Docentore did for me a good while back that the had the argon wiring method and it needed to be upgraded! Half the time the thing wouldnt let me sync controllers, when it would let me sync controllers the lights on the front could be any combination it felt like, and rarely would be right

So after getting some advice of Docentore he pointed me towards a twist on the aud_clamp that i had never seen before , the boxxdrjtag.

I took a nand dump using xell, I used some tool that i cant remember its name to gen a new nand for the new wiring i was going to do and flashed it using flash 360.

So first step was to remove the old wiring. Docentore had hot glued it down so i had to get my soldering iron a little gluey I desoldered the cables, waited for the glue to dry again and plucked it off. This will work fine at the JTAG points but if its a solder pad dont do this, you will lose the pad!

Just a note actually, I did all the soldering work with a cheapo 30w soldering iron that I got in Maplin yoinks ago, and I found it much easier than using my solder station. I'll defiantly be using old bluey more often

So first step was to clear out the necessary jtag points. I did this by standing the board up, sticking my iron into the bottom of the Jtag point, and sucky-upy-thinged it from the top:



Next step was to solder in the 10k resistors, don't cut the legs yet. (excuse the blury picture)



And the reason we dont cut the legs... (make sure they are not touching any of the other pins.)



So you then bend the resistor back over its self. Next step was to solder in the transistors, notice the way they are facing. Its the beauty of this mod, its very hard to mess up the CBE on the transistor. solder the middle leg of the transistor to the resistors.



Then we solder some wire to the top leg, make sure you use some heat shrink.



And then solder those wires home




So I booted her up... blank screen, no lights (although could be attributed to the fact the cf board is faulty as i later discovered). I was confident I had wired it correctly and i had double checked everything so i wasnt that worried. I thought it was a messed up nand.

I got onto my resident get my jtags out of jail man, TV for advice.

He said that tool I used had caused him problems before and to generate a new one using bestpig, so I did. Solderred up my dog slow usb nand flasher (thanks Niai for the 4Mhz crystal :mad: )and flashed it.

Booted into xell ... woohooo

Myrddin

TV literally is, the JTAG God :cool:

Chuffed you got it sorted out, nice work too!

docentore

EnterNow wrote: »

TV literally is, the JTAG God :cool:

Chuffed you got it sorted out, nice work too!

I feel insulted that you forgot about me :P

WMN: nice job, tidy and looks good. As for the solder iron get this one, cheap and has temp control, I'm using it at the moment and I'm really happy with it, very quick to heat up and no problems with ROHS solder.

Myrddin

docentore wrote: »

I feel insulted that you forgot about me :P

WMN: nice job, tidy and looks good. As for the solder iron get this one, cheap and has temp control, I'm using it at the moment and I'm really happy with it, very quick to heat up and no problems with ROHS solder.

Hence forth...we have two jtag gods. All hail

What is the purpose of the different wiring methods, presumably the normal way causes problems with certain boards?

TouchingVirus

The TMS involved in the JTAG hack is essentially borrowing an I/O on every board except the Xenon (which has plenty of spare I/Os). Borrowing it from ARGON_DATA (the ROL board) can lead to some funny problems like WMN described, random ROL colours, syncing issues etc. This is why AUD_CLAMP is the preferred method.

The SMC file you have on your nand determines where it'll look for TMS, obviously with the previous wiring in use it was looking to ARGON_DATA instead of AUD_CLAMP. So all that was necessary to get it working was to modify the SMC file to look to AUD_CLAMP. This could be done by using the smc.jasperbb.bin file in the pre-built Xellous files I have in the tutorial (they have TMS set to AUD_CLAMP) but since they were made several other issues have come to light (e.g. if you have a play and charge kit connected and turn off the console it'll restart itself ). So to fix these there's an SMC patching app called SMC Utility by Blackaddr you can use to swap TMI/TMS to different wiring methods and also to patch out some bugs. I've got all SMC files patched using this, I may upload them to the JTAG thread when I get home to save having to patch them yourselves

Anyways, glad you got it working wmn, back to JTAG land! Love the wiring method too, though not to fond of having to remove laquer off that last point to solder to it instead of DB1F1. You just know somebody will wreck the trace :P

Myrddin

Ah, so would that explain my Falcons erroneous power on method. The console works perfectly, until it's unplugged from the wall. In the event its unplugged, I'll get a black screen with flashing red lights. I have to then unplug the power block from the back of the console & reinsert it...from there on out its 100% until the next time its unplugged (I never unplug it really but it can be a bit annoying sometimes)

Reamer Fanny

Nice neat job saves having the transistors floating about

witnessmenow

TouchingVirus wrote: »

Anyways, glad you got it working wmn, back to JTAG land! Love the wiring method too, though not to fond of having to remove laquer off that last point to solder to it instead of DB1F1. You just know somebody will wreck the trace :P

I didnt have to remove anything from that solder point, just applied a little extra and away i went

I did however remove something from another solder point when removing Docentores wiring... a solder point :pac:

docentore

EnterNow wrote: »

Ah, so would that explain my Falcons erroneous power on method. The console works perfectly, until it's unplugged from the wall. In the event its unplugged, I'll get a black screen with flashing red lights. I have to then unplug the power block from the back of the console & reinsert it...from there on out its 100% until the next time its unplugged (I never unplug it really but it can be a bit annoying sometimes)

yeah, thats should resolve the issues.

The transistors costs around €2 for pack of 5 in Radionics in Rialto, they usually have them on stock.

Myrddin

docentore wrote: »

yeah, thats should resolve the issues.

The transistors costs around €2 for pack of 5 in Radionics in Rialto, they usually have them on stock.

Ok, so I need to remove the existing jtag wiring, & redo this using the AUD_CLAMP wiring points instead? Ugh, I'll get to it eventually.

Still have to 'tag that Japser I got from TV believe it or not, it's still living in its box. I'm almost finished my loft conversion so when thats done I'll jtag it & setup a network switch up there for system link games between the two.

docentore

EnterNow wrote: »

Ok, so I need to remove the existing jtag wiring, & redo this using the AUD_CLAMP wiring points instead? Ugh, I'll get to it eventually.

Still have to 'tag that Japser I got from TV believe it or not, it's still living in its box. I'm almost finished my loft conversion so when thats done I'll jtag it & setup a network switch up there for system link games between the two.

just remember to download nand dump and make new one with aul_clamp smc configuration

TouchingVirus

witnessmenow wrote: »

I didnt have to remove anything from that solder point, just applied a little extra and away i went

I did however remove something from another solder point when removing Docentores wiring... a solder point :pac:

Ahh, it's an actual point? I thought it was a pad covered with lacquer :pac:

TouchingVirus

Updated SMC files are attached here