The Landrover Discovery Td5 Thread

101sean

It does sound like fuel, will run out sooner under load plus it should rev to well over 3000, yours wont and misses as well.

For anyone else reading this, we thought the strainer in the pump may be blocked, been a few cases of diesel bug from dodgy or dirty fuel and they get covered in slime. The manual doesn't cover it but you can take the pump apart to clean it, don't break any of the connectors or pipes though! Obviously this wasn't the problem here.

OldGuysRule

Wrong side, the guy I was going to recommend is on the far side, more Co Tipp than Co Cork. Definitely sounds like fuel starvation.

MyStubbleItches

Sean and old guy, you're both spot on. Fuel pump failure. Brought it to a guy this morning and he had it sussed in seconds. New one was €325 and it's purring now. How he diagnosed it was simple, he just put his hand on the fuel filter which was cold. After a spin it should have been hot.

Thanks a million lads, especially Sean. No doubt I'll be annoying ye soon with another problem!

OldGuysRule

They get under your skin. I have just got a Nanocom Evo for the Disco td5 if you have any other fault / programming needs. I can programme keys, read / clear faults, adjust some BCU settings etc. Handy little jobbie alright.

101sean

They are handy alright, my early Nanocom has saved me a fair bit.

Hadn't thought of the hot filter, have to remember that one! As the fuel is at fairly high temp it will get hot even though it goes through a cooler, no pressure, no heat!

Suckler

Just a quick query with regard to Disco clutch. My clutch seems very short, always has done. the pedal has to go right to the floor before I can change gear. Can it be adjusted?

101sean

There are no adjustments that can be made on a D2 clutch.

Try bleeding it, may be a bit of air trapped in the built in damper in the master cylinder, another poster on here had something similar some time ago. If that doesn't improve it, you have a problem with either the master or the slave cylinder.

Suckler

Thanks Sean, will have to try that. It's not causing any problems and has always been like that, will tried to bleed it to see if that helps

pcbscott

Hey Guys,

Just wanted to see if anyone has had a similar problem to the dilemma I have. One of the headlights has blow on the Discovery, its a 2003 model with the facelift headlamps.

I have to say as much as I love Landrovers and the brand in general the design here is beyond stupid.

The two top screws to undo the headlamp have rusted in the socket and are fused together, this would not be an issue if the socket was not mounted in PLASTIC!!!

In applying enough force to turn the screw naturally the plastic snaps and now the both the screw / socket / plastic just turn and turn.

I had to drill them out 6 months ago on the other side, looks like I am going to have to do the same again.

Far from ideal.

OldGuysRule

Did you liberally spray WD40 or such before hand? Really helps in these situations.

pcbscott

I was more than liberal! - Just wondering what my options are, really don't like driving with one headlamp out, its just asking for trouble.

At the same time it should be a user serviceable part so I refuse to take it somewhere.

I suspect the plastic mount is indeed broken therefore I have little option but to drill the head of the screw out.

Just wondering what my options are once I have done that? I will use lots of lubricant this time as the The heat from the drill last time really left a mess. Are there metal mounts I can purchase that could be welded in as a suitable replacement?

I plan to sell the car in the not to distant future a mess like this will no doubt reduce the potential value in it.

101sean

Not familiar with the headlamp mount on yours but the plastic inserts into the body usuall just push in.

Do they look like this? - http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/11645/3192/2/STC1232-KIT-HEADLAMP-FIXING.html

pcbscott

Don't think it looks like that I'm afraid, thanks tho.

Ill try and get a photo tonight and upload it.

OldGuysRule

Those fittings are for the pre-facelift headlamps

The facelift ones do leave a bit to be desired alright. Mine were very stiff so I soaked them and left them for a few hours, then was able to crack them open.

JohnBoy

Just to let ye know I got me a 02 td5, looks to be the last of them before the facelift as it has the cat and egr cooler, which I thought were facelift only, but seemingly the last of the pre facelifts had them too.

it came with around 3 grands worth of receipts (must actually add them up) from the last year including a new head, so hopefully it's had all the problem areas sorted.

expect lots of questions as I get used to it.

Daithi Mcnamara

JohnBoy wrote: »

Just to let ye know I got me a 02 td5,

I used to have one like that, the last of the pre-facelift Td5's, from brand new in 2002, I kept it for five years in total. Never had any major problems with it except for the headlamp lenses forever breaking until I fitted perspex lamp protectors!

Daithi

O.A.P

JohnBoy wrote: »

Just to let ye know I got me a 02 td5, looks to be the last of them before the facelift as it has the cat and egr cooler, which I thought were facelift only, but seemingly the last of the pre facelifts had them too.

it came with around 3 grands worth of receipts (must actually add them up) from the last year including a new head, so hopefully it's had all the problem areas sorted.

expect lots of questions as I get used to it.

Well ware hope she is lucky for you.
Some pics are always good dont be shy.;)

JohnBoy

So, the air con isnt working, the seller told me he'd replaced the compressor and it needed a regas.

so taking him on his word I bought a regas kit in halfords today, hooked up the gauge and it was showing 25psi. low, about 25 psi higher than a system that had been opened.

So I did some more looking. the compressor isnt spinning.

I checked the three air con fuses, all good. swapped the relay with the identical fog light relay and checked the voltage at the compressor clutch connector, no volts.


So, what do I do/check next?

101sean

Do a search and download the RAVE manual for your vehicle, the A/C section in the electrical library is 10 pages! I tried to extract them for you but my pdf printer throws up an error.

JohnBoy

I'm on another forum too and had a suggestion from an A/C guy there.

The system has a switch which will not allow the compressor to run unless there's a certain amount of pressure present.

I put a small shot of gas in and it took off so I put in the whole bottle and it's now blowing icy cold.

ordering an injector harness tomorrow.

JohnBoy

did the injector harness and a few other bits and bobs, running lovely and smooth now.

have a set of cruise control switches on order too. do they "just work" or does the cruise control function need to be enabled in the software?

JohnBoy

Ok, well I have the answer, about ten minutes after I posted my cruise control switches arrived, and since it's actually dry out today I fitted them during lunch.

no setup required they work straight away. only took 50 minutes to fit and could probably do it in half an hour at home with proper tools, but it took me ages to cut the hole in the steering wheel with a stanley knife.

OldGuysRule

Good mod.

Just back from a trip to France in my Discovery, covered about 2k miles without missing a beat, fully loaded, surfboard on roof, bikes on wheel carrier etc.

One thing I did notice with the cruise control on the long motorway 70+mph journeys was that it can be quite aggressive in its breaking on the downhill sections, couple of times, I just disengaged it and hit the resume button as we reached the bottom.

laois hibby

Anyone got any idea where i can get a bracket for the air suspension compressor? just discovered its in pieces. its a disco 3 tdv6

101sean

Suspect that's going to be a dealer part, can't find a listing for it on the usual UK suppliers.

laois hibby

thanks

JohnBoy

ACK!!!!!

Tailgate wont open.

The tailgate is stuck, I've removed the door card and everything seems to be moving freely, nothin seems seized, the central locking moves the lock button up and down, the inner handle will pop the lock back up.

the outer handle isnt seized

The inner handle wont open the door, but the child lock is on.

the outer handle lever moves up and down freely, it feels like it's not connected to anything or something.

where do I go from here, google is just telling me to use some wd40, but that's not it, the handle isnt seized.

How do I open the door? it needs to be open to remove the latch!



Going to dublin in the morning for a wedding, want to take the disco as the kids get far less carsick in it.

helllllppppppppp

JohnBoy

sh*t, I've made it worse.

was wiggling my fingers about inside and disconnected the deadlock linkage, now the frickin thing is completely locked, cant even unlock, never mind open it.

I can feel the deadlock linkage, but cant get onto it to open it.

JohnBoy

ok, calmed slightly, got the deadlock opened again,

so back to square one, outer handle does nowt, inner handle will unlock the door but not open it as the child lock is on.

JohnBoy

CHILD LOCK!!!!!!

I put a scredriver between the door and the door rubber and switched off the child lock, then was able to open the door from the inside.

I'm gonna take the latch out and clean it up well.

JohnBoy

took the lock out, cleaned it, refitted and the same thing happened after a few open/closes.

eventually figured it out. if you attempted to open the door from the outside while locked the lock was sticking partially open.

a tip on the child lock lever would release it.

after studying it for ages I found that if I moved the end of one of the torsion springs to rest outside the latch it was under just a little bit more torsion and was able to overcome whatever the sticking issue is.

I'm not sure whether the cause is something getting sticky, or the spring getting weak with age.

I dont think I've seen the last of this issue.

what's involved in reprogramming the central locking to open all the doors? I dont live in compton and I'm not overly concerned about carjackings. it wrecks my head this whole double blip routine

101sean

Glad you appear to have sorted it! The cause is probably both a weak spring and dirt in the lock.

You can diy reprogram the body ecu and locking routine with a a Nanocom or Hawkeye or get a LR specialist to do it for you.

OldGuysRule

Whereabouts in the country are you? I have a nanocom Evo that can reprogramme the central locking to just open all doors with one plip. I am based in Limerick / Clare

hometruths

Thinking of selling my 01 Discovery and wondered if any one wiser than myself here might give a ballpark opinion of what it might be worth?

5 seat TD5 ES UK Import
Epsom Green with tan leather
twin sunroofs and all the ES bells and whistles
Land Rover dog guard
roof ladder
Parrot Bluetooth phone/ipod
No stamped service history book, but receipts for all maintenance since 06, many 1000s spent
Airbag suspension converted to springs

Above average condition but not mint.
New NCT
134k miles

Any ideas?
Much appreciated.

101sean

€3500-4500, pitch it a bit higher and be prepared to drop, not too much demand because of the high road tax.

hometruths

101sean wrote: »

€3500-4500, pitch it a bit higher and be prepared to drop, not too much demand because of the high road tax.

thanks sean!

O.A.P

My brother paid 6500 for a late 02 for what sounds the same as yours all though its maroon and auto. He bought it off the main dealer and it came with a six month or six 1000 miles warranty and has the newer TD5 engine.

It is luxury to drive or even as a passenger even though the air suspension has been replaced with springs (107000 miles on it).

Its a beautiful machine pity about the tax.

greenpilot

I noticed that the fuel pump in my 2002 td5 disco had started to whine all the time instead of turning off after starting. Plus the jeep started to start badly. Sent it in to a 4x4 place in Castlebar to get sorted. Picked it up up at the garage after a week and drove it straight to Dublin. Next morning, I went to start it and again, it had problems starting. The "new" pump is very very noisy and now doesnt switch off at all. Plus, I actually couldnt start it for 10 minutes at a garage as i pulled in for a fuel top up!!

GGGrrrrrr. I am bringing the jeep back to the garage today. Really pissed off. I even did the purge sequence using the ECU, but still the same. Am I Missing Something??

Regards,

P

101sean

Sounds like the replacement pump is duff. At least they are easy to get at in a D2. How come they had it so long, takes less than an hour to change one.

There's no smell of diesel is there, just wondering if one of the fuel lines isn't fully seated, they are push fit.

greenpilot

101sean wrote: »

Sounds like the replacement pump is duff. At least they are easy to get at in a D2. How come they had it so long, takes less than an hour to change one.

There's no smell of diesel is there, just wondering if one of the fuel lines isn't fully seated, they are push fit.

He hadnt got a spare so I had to wait until one came in.

Regards,

Paul

101sean

Fair enough. It's not unknown for brand new ones to fail especially non genuine ones

Green Oval

Fuel pumps last about 6 months if your lucky in my experience. Cause less trouble if you keep the tank full. The car will still run even with a faulty pump. If you let it go below half way you'll get trouble. If the pump is suspect keep the tank as full as possible. It makes a big difference. The headlight arrangement on the 03/04 cars is disgraceful. Takes ages to change a bulb. Surprised the screws rusted, mine blow so often there's no need for wd40. Just bring a screwdriver everywhere with you. The rear doors are very narrow, don't care what anybody says. The rear door sticks constantly, known issue. The rear wiper is also hopeless and wears out in days as far as i can see. The cruise control will limit revs very harshly on steep hills, get used to it. It holds a constant speed well despite that. The heat shield from above the turbo comes loose after a few days and rattles like hell on tickover, tie it back to the bulkhead with a snap tie. One of the coolant pipes wears our fast as its running right over a steel air con pipe on which it vibrates right over the compressor. More snap ties or a lot of plastic tape required. Otherwise you'll loose all the coolant very suddendly some day. A spare starter is very handy as it will fail at the worst possible moment (christmas eve, 6pm on top of a muti-storey car park in kilkenny while snow is starting to fall!) but fitting a starter remains a nightmare operation. If it shows even the slightest sign of ever overheating stop at once and do not proceed under any circumstances. Check the front driveshaft regularly, if it fails from the front (it will eventually) it will leave a big dent in the underside and you stranded. Only a tow truck wil get you out of that situation. Nothing to be done but replace it if it wears as theres no grease nipple on the front of the shaft.

New issues. Auto warning lights on dash light after changing from forward to reverse. Switch off, restart and out they go. Otherwise car wont change past 3rd gear. Some sort of software glitch i presume? Gears work perfectly otherwise. In very heavy rain might get warning lights too so i presume some wire is getting soaked. Must try liberal spray of wd40 on any wiring i can find.

Seems to be floating around a lot on the rear suspension. New dampers will be tried. An airbag is leaking too so i need one of those as well. No leaks from ace or dampers or any sign of missing/broken parts.

101sean

Try cleaning and sealing the XYZ switch on the autobox, they are prone to giving trouble as the aircon drain is directly over them. Also look at the other connector on the box, does sound like anelectrical problm rather than mechanical.

Green Oval

I'll add it to the long list of stuff to do. Thanks for that.

101sean

If you google XYZ switch you should find plenty of info on the problem.

Airbags should almost be regarded as a service item although some expect them to last forever.

I'm still on my original fuel pump after 150,000 miles which is unusual (and having said that it will now probably fail :rolleyes:)

Check the various bushes in the back axle as well, I think if there's wear in the Watts linkage it can cause handling problems.

OldGuysRule

In 4 yrs of owning td5 Discos, I have not had the amount of trouble Green Oval has had. Have done a little over 82k (bringing first one from 35k to 100k and second / current one from 43k to 60k), I have only replaced one fuel pump (before it failed). Have had other works done including oil cooler, an ACE connector, an AC radiator and a battery, but not bad for the life they have had. I do not find changing the bulbs on the facelift too much of an issue, agreed it is more complicated that the prefacelift, but that is more a reflection of the ease of the older ones. I changed the four main bulbs when I got it last year to Philips +90% and 16 months later they are still working, to note, I turn on the lights every time I drive it.

Still cannot imagine driving anything else.

Green Oval

I've had 4 of them now and the total mileage is likely several hundred thousand miles. The current version is the worst re the fuel pumps, all the other issues were common to them all. One was stolen after a month mind so that was trouble free apart from being nicked. If you go far enough everything i described will eventually happen.

Mech1

Just to let you land rover, Disco, Range Rover owners know, I have a new Autologic diagnostic system that beats Dealer diagnostics at times.
http://www.autologic.com/en/pages/homeproducts/autologic-solution/land-rover-diagnostics

Pm me to organise a plugin:D

TheBrack

Hi Suckler,

Can you point me in the direction of the roof sensor that killed your disco, mine died in the yard on Friday, it was fine on Tursday evening so I am trying to pinpoint what it could be. I am hoping to check the Crank Position Sensor in the morning if I can find it.

Many thanks.

TheBrack.

Suckler

TheBrack wrote: »

Hi Suckler,

Can you point me in the direction of the roof sensor that killed your disco, mine died in the yard on Friday, it was fine on Tursday evening so I am trying to pinpoint what it could be. I am hoping to check the Crank Position Sensor in the morning if I can find it.

Many thanks.

TheBrack.

It was the one housed just above the rear view mirror that was causing my issues. Was yours running when it "died". The faulty sensor in mine wouldnt let it start but when it did start there was no issue. Diagnostics should quickly tell you the problem.