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Help with mounts

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  • 28-03-2011 2:22pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭


    Finally got my arse in gear and a few hours off collage to zero my 22-250 today with the nightforce, Started at 25 yards just to make sure everything would be on paper.........it was out by 8 inchs to the left at 25 yards! :eek:

    If I'm right that would be 32 MOA?

    Wasn't happy but tried to adjust anyway but naturally enough the scope ran out of MOA. Back up to the house and took off the scope and when ya look along the rifle you can see the front base is slighly to the right which explains why its shooting left. Tried switching the rings but that made no difference, so I went to take off the front base and try to align it.

    Not for the life of me can I open the Torx(star) screws that is holding it in place?!:mad:

    I remember when I put my Bushnell scope on this rifle before it also ran out of windage so The scope definately isnt at fault! Any suggestions lads??


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 11,393 ✭✭✭✭Vegeta


    What mounts (bases and rings) are you using?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭patsat


    Ah I knew I forgot something! :o

    Not sure of the Bases but they are a two-piece picatinny base and the Rings are Burris Extreme Tactical Mounts.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    patsat wrote: »
    Ah I knew I forgot something! :o

    Not sure of the Bases but they are a two-piece picatinny base and the Rings are Burris Extreme Tactical Mounts.

    Are the bases out of line?(put a straight edge from one to another to judge their alignment.
    If they are Torx and loctite'd down an impact driver is required to open (or you will need a gunsmith if that does not work.)


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,558 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Its your bases. As mentioned if they are glued in an impact driver will get them out. Rarely is heating needed, but if the impact driver cannot remove them bring it to a qualified gunsmith as you will do more damage trying to remove them yourself.

    I do not like 2 piece rail systems, but i have a set on my Savage FCP. When i "stuck them on" they were also pulling to one side. I removed them and done the following.
    • Mark along the screw holes of the receiver with a pencil through all four holes until you have a striaght line. Another way to more precise would be to get a calipers, digital if possible. Measure the width of the receiver at the screw in points. Get the centre of that measurement and mark the receiver with a straight line (using a pencil) along all the centre points.
    • Take the bases and measure them also. Get the centre point and mark it (with the pencil) along the length of the base.
    • Place the bases on the receiver and align the lines of the receiver with the lines of the bases.
    • Now as with scope screws do not tighten one screw fully at a time. Screw all 4 screws down until they are barely tight. In other words until you feel the first bit of "resistance".
    • Check the lines are still level/straight.
    • Begin tightening the screws. Give the first one a 1/4 turn. Stop. Then the 2nd a 1/4 turn, and so on.
    • Check the lines are still straight/level.
    • Go back over all the screws again giving each one the same amount of turn as the rest. The reason for this is if you over tighten one and it pulls the base off centre the other screws cannot/will not pull the base straight. This is why i use two allen keys when tightening scope or base screws.
    • Keep at this until all screws are tight and the lines are still straight. If at any point you start to "veer" off lossen the last screw you tightened and go again.
    It sounds like a painfully long process, but it really only takes 10 minutes and its worth it when you know they are on straight and true. I took my NF off my target rifle and put it on my hunter for the comp in the midlands yesterday. The scope windage was centred and i used the above method for mounting the bases. I had to use 2.25 moa at 100yds to get my zero. So it is worth it.
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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭patsat


    Thanks lads I'll try an impact driver once I can get my hands on one!

    May just get a one piece base once I get these things off!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,703 ✭✭✭deerhunter1


    patsat wrote: »
    Finally got my arse in gear and a few hours off collage to zero my 22-250 today with the nightforce, Started at 25 yards just to make sure everything would be on paper.........it was out by 8 inchs to the left at 25 yards! :eek:

    If I'm right that would be 32 MOA?

    Wasn't happy but tried to adjust anyway but naturally enough the scope ran out of MOA. Back up to the house and took off the scope and when ya look along the rifle you can see the front base is slighly to the right which explains why its shooting left. Tried switching the rings but that made no difference, so I went to take off the front base and try to align it.

    Not for the life of me can I open the Torx(star) screws that is holding it in place?!:mad:

    I remember when I put my Bushnell scope on this rifle before it also ran out of windage so The scope definately isnt at fault! Any suggestions lads??

    I dont think 32MOA is correct at 25yds, it would be at 100yds I think?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    patsat wrote: »
    Thanks lads I'll try an impact driver once I can get my hands on one!

    May just get a one piece base once I get these things off!

    Any good car mechanic should have one, or anybody who takes motors or such like apart


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭patsat


    I dont think 32MOA is correct at 25yds, it would be at 100yds I think?

    Well 8 inchs at 25 yards would be four times that at 100 yards because its four times the distance...

    Which means it would be 32 inchs at 100 yards! :eek:

    Thanks Tack should be able to find one so!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,668 ✭✭✭kay 9


    If you have trouble opening them torx screws like I had when changing bases and mounts you may have to drill them out. I did mine recently and is not so bad. Get a good bit and take your time. 9 times out of ten they will shear even with a impact driver:rolleyes: (especially if loctite was used) It's not needed imo anyway. Copper grease more like.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 17 John 5


    cover them in wd40 for a day or too before tryin to open them agen.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭patsat


    Got three of the four screws off today! But the last one seemed just would not move no matter what we tried.

    Tried using an impact screwdriver but ended up destroying the head of the screw so the only option left is a trip to Athlone to get it drilled out! :eek:

    Thanks for the advice lads!


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