Outdoor socket to mains board or garage board?

paddy147

Is 5 runs of ducting (complete with fish wires) enough for garage services/garden and future proofing?:D

1 for 3 core 10sq SWA to feed the garage
1 for water supply to garage
1 for 6 core alarm and cat5e cables to garage
1 for smaller SWA for outdoor pond/light socket
1 for a spare duct to garage ir garden,with regards the future.


Maybe a co-ax for a small flatscreen TV in the garage?

Or am I loosing the plot now??

I must be bleedin mad at this stage.:pac::pac:

paddy147

I might just keep it simple and run the SWA from the garage fuseboard out to the location of the outdoor socket,where the pond will be.

If I get the floorboards in the house pulled up again to run from the mains fuseboard,she will fcuking well kill me,and I will probably end up in the trench with the ducting.:(


Maybe just keep is simple and go from the garage fuse board and leave out the timer setup.

cast_iron

paddy147 wrote: »

Maybe just keep is simple and go from the garage fuse board

That would be best I think. Run a 4x2.5 if you don't mind paying the small bit extra for provision down the line.

You can still install a timer at the shed board of you like in any case. It won't need much adjusting once set up so having it in the shed wouldn't be such a problem.

paddy147

cast_iron wrote: »

That would be best I think. Run a 4x2.5 if you don't mind paying the small bit extra for provision down the line.

Cool.

Can I ask what you mean by a "small bit extra for provision down the line"?

Thanks.:)

cast_iron

Paying for the extra core of copper:) (otherwise just buy a 3x2.5)
It ain't cheap to be buying for no good reason.
If you think you might use it in future, then it's worth it, otherwise it's a waste of money.

paddy147

cast_iron wrote: »

Paying for the extra core of copper:) (otherwise just buy a 3x2.5)
It ain't cheap to be buying for no good reason.
If you think you might use it in future, then it's worth it, otherwise it's a waste of money.

Thanks.:)

paddy147

Right,my girlfriend now wants to be able to switch on and off the pond pump and garden lights seperately from the kitchen,via a light switch plate.

So Ive found a route from the mains house fuseboard accross the house and down into the kitchen.

I got a double outdoor socket box off a mate of mine today,he had it spare,so he gave it to me for the price of a few beers.:)

I was going to get some normal 2.5 twin and earth run from the house fuse board down to the location on the kitchen wall.

At this location I was going to install a chrome double wall switch plate.And then from this switch plate run the length of SWA out to the outdoor socket in the garden.

1 switch on the wall switch would be for the pond pump and the other would be for the garden lights.

Would 3 core 2.5 square SWA be ok to use from the double switch plate in the kitchen out to the double socket,or do I need 4 core 2.5 SWA???

Also would 2.5 twin and earth be ok to use from the mains fuseboard to the double light switch plate in the kitchen?

Thanks.:)

Bruthal

You will want 4 core 2.5 swa out. I would ise an Outdoor JB if it was me anyway. An RCD or RCDO will be needed on the circuit anyway whatever you put on the end of the circuit. Some would say 2 switchable supplies onto a single twin socket unit is not great practice. Im in the middle on it as its really the same circuit, we often see it on 2 or 3 gang switches in houses, but probably would not be expected on a 2 gang socket, just one half can be off and the other on and vice versa. Id do it myself alright in my own garden. Assuming the outdoor 2 gang socket you have can have each half wired seperate.

For a pond i would of used the JB option anyway. Fixed connections, 10 amp breaker in board.

paddy147

robbie7730 wrote: »

You will want 4 core 2.5 swa out. I would ise an Outdoor JB if it was me anyway. An RCD or RCDO will be needed on the circuit anyway whatever you put on the end of the circuit.

I actually have about 12-13 meters of 3 core 2.5 SWA sitting in the shed in my mothers house,would that be any use?

Install RCD at fuse board and run normal 2.5 twin and earth from the house fuse board to the new double switch location in the kitchen...yes?




Then 3 or 4 core 2.5 SWA from the double switch location out to the double switch plate out to the double outdoor socket....yes?


Thanks.:)


P.S-Heres a pic of the double wall switchs that are in my house (I have to by a new 1 tomorrow for the kitchen)

paddy147

robbie7730 wrote: »

For a pond i would of used the JB option anyway. Fixed connections, 10 amp breaker in board.

Can you tell me or show me more plase,as Im not fully with it here.

Bruthal

Yes thats about it, and a 16 amp MCB from the new RCD or a 16 amp RCBO would do fine.

M cebee

rcbo at fuse board or a spur off a socket circuit would do

rated double switch or else use an apt and photocell for pond and lights

4-core out to pond and make provision for isolating power at pond

most of the sockets i see can't be split

if ive forgotten anything its the drink:)

paddy147

robbie7730 wrote: »

Yes thats about it, and a 16 amp MCB from the new RCD or a 16 amp RCBO would do fine.

Theres about 12 meters of 3 core 2.5 SWA sitting in the back of the shed in my mothers house,would that be ok to use from a double switch plate to a double socket,or does it have to be 4 core 2.5 SWA??

thanks.

Bruthal

paddy147 wrote: »

Can you tell me or show me more plase,as Im not fully with it here.

Well there is no real need for an outdoor socket in that situation, a fully weatherproof outdoor JB would be better, swa into it into din rail connectors, and your cables out to pumps and garden lights from the connectors. If you want outdoor sockets for other purposes you can just wire the one you have from garage in addition to the JB from house.

Bruthal

paddy147 wrote: »

Theres about 12 meters of 3 core 2.5 SWA sitting in the back of the shed in my mothers house,would that be ok to use from a double switch plate to a double socket,or does it have to be 4 core 2.5 SWA??

thanks.

You would need 4 cores out from 2 gang switches, Live 1 and Live 2 for each switch (lights & pump), neutral and earth. If its light switches your using then a 10 amp MCB would be better, which will be fine if the twin sockets are dedicated for lights and pond pump. Is pump 230v or 12 volt? Probably has a waterproof traffo on it maybe.

But again, JB is what i have used in the past for such setups.

paddy147

So am I right in saying or thinking that this junction box method does away with the need for an outdoor socket and that you cut the plugs off the pond pump and outdoor lights and you "hard wire" them into the junction box and onto the SWA.

And the SWA then goes back to the double switch plate in the kitchen?

And the switch plate is wired back to the fuse board with twin and earth and RCDed too?

And if I want to turn the garden lights off,then I just hit the switch on the kitchen well?



Is that how it works??

Bruthal

You could even use an outdoor weatherproof 3 phase isolator as your JB, and it could isolate everthing as well.

paddy147

I,ll never make for an electricain.(lol):pac:

Bruthal

paddy147 wrote: »

So am I right in saying or thinking that this junction box method does away with the need for an outdoor socket and that you cut the plugs off the pond pump and outdoor lights and you "hard wire" them into the junction box and onto the SWA.

And the SWA then goes back to the double switch plate in the kitchen?

And the switch plate is wired back to the fuse board with twin and earth and RCDed too?

And if I want to turn the garden lights off,then I just hit the switch on the kitchen well?



Is that how it works??

Yes thats about it. I think a small outdoor isolator might work well for that. The type with the red rotary switch on them.

Bruthal

paddy147 wrote: »

I,ll never make for an electricain.(lol):pac:

Neither will i :eek:

paddy147

robbie7730 wrote: »

Yes thats about it. I think a small outdoor isolator might work well for that. The type with the red rotary switch on them.

Im with you now.Now I know what your on about,isolator switch before the junction box and you just turn it to kill everything (not me though):D

Bruthal

paddy147 wrote: »

Im with you now.Now I know what your on about,isolator switch before the junction box and you just turn it to kill everything (not me though):D

Well you could use the isolator as your JB at the same time. One 4 core swa into it, N and E joined to the outgoing Neutral and earths in connectors, and the 2 Live conductors through the isolator and out to your lights and pump. So the isolator would be your JB and isolator also.

Can even get a 3 pole isolator and put the neutrals through it.

An isolator with threaded knockouts. Have a look in wholesalers anyway.

paddy147

How many things could I wire into a junction box then with 4 core 2.5 SWA?

Could I wire up the pond pump,garden lights and still add an outdoor socket (for lawnmower or power washer) into the junction box?

paddy147

robbie7730 wrote: »

Well you could use the isolator as your JB at the same time. One 4 core swa into it, N and E joined to the outgoing Neutral and earths in connectors, and the 2 Live conductors through the isolator and out to your lights and pump. So the isolator would be your JB and isolator also.

Can even get a 3 pole isolator and put the neutrals through it.

An isolator with threaded knockouts. Have a look in wholesalers anyway.

You seem to know what you are talking about allright.

Are you in Dublin by any chance??

PM me with regards the above.:)

Thanks.

Bruthal

paddy147 wrote: »

How many things could I wire into a junction box then with 4 core 2.5 SWA?

Could I wire up the pond pump,garden lights and add a single outdoor socket (for lawnmower or power washer) into the junction box?

No if you wanted an outdoor socket, wire it from the shed. It wont need any timer or switching so a cable from the shed is the best there. It would be getting messy doing it from the JB as well.

paddy147

robbie7730 wrote: »

No if you wanted an outdoor socket, wire it from the shed. It wont need any timer or switching so a cable from the shed is the best there. It would be getting messy doing it from the JB as well.

Right so,thanks for that.:)

cast_iron

Just on this again, I spotted a single socket (IP65) with a built-in timer in a DIY shop recently. Cheap at €25 roughly. Might be just the easiest solution if you can get one.