Where to source for 2x10 or 2x12 timber

Vexorg

I am looking for 2x10 or 2x12 (inch) timbers to make stringers for steps up to my shed. I have tried Buckleys, Goslins and Richmond builders providers and the largest they carry is 9*2.

Buckleys suggested Woodgrey in Coolock, but the phone rings out, so wondering if anyone has sourced similar sized timber in Dublin recently and if so where?

Thanks

slowburner

Presumably you're looking for pressure treated softwood? It's probably out of your way but Wood Industries in Rathdrum, Co.Wicklow (0404 46390) usually stock wide boards and are incredibly helpful. Alternatively, you could join boards to make up the width you need.

Vexorg

Hi Slowburner,

Thanks for that, If I cant track the dimensions down in Dublin, I will try wood industries, and failing that, I will look into trying to join 2x6.

G

slowburner

You might be as well off joining the boards to width, for stability reasons. Boards over 10" wide in softwood nearly always contain the pith (or heartwood) which will almost invariably split. They also have a tendency to cup. It wouldn't be a big deal to join them - there is enough surface area on a 2" board to butt joint them. Hope this helps.

Carlow52

Vexorg wrote: »

Hi Slowburner,

Thanks for that, If I cant track the dimensions down in Dublin, I will try wood industries, and failing that, I will look into trying to join 2x6.

G

if u can get access to a biscuit jointer so much the better

just stagger the biscuits in from each face

and if in that mode 2 by 4 might be cheaper, and stronger

Vexorg

Thanks guys

Looks like joining the boards is the only route to go, no one within a reasonable radius carries or can source the 2x12.

Pressure treated 2x4 and 2x6 are readily available.

Will three 2x4 be stronger than two 6x2.

I do not access to a biscuit jointer, but I do have a pocket hole jig, do you think I will get a similar joint/connection if I plane the edges to be joined (assuming the pressure treated timber is rough) then glue, then clamp using the pocket hole screws. Remove the screws, cut the steps and put the screws back in.

G.

slowburner

Three 2x4's won't necessarily be stronger but they will be more stable, which obviously makes them stronger in the long run.
I haven't tried joining boards in the way you describe but I can't see any reason for it not to work. The only problem which might arise, is alignment of the top (face) surface - I presume you will be screwing into the underside. You should probably glue and cramp the boards first, then fix the screws. You might not even need to put the screws back in, as I said earlier 2" of surface area is probably enough for a simple butt joint: if, that is, the surfaces are planed square and true and you use a good, waterproof glue. If you have access to a router, the number of ways you can join up the boards increases tenfold.

Carlow52

Are u routing the steps onto the side of the stringer or whats the plan.

Working with PTT has a number of side issues

1: as it comes, glue may not get the best bond with PTT

2: too much planing will remove the PT

3: the dust from working with it is not that healthy

4: all cut ends will need to be PT'ed again

Another way to join them is to use long bolts- say 8mm - with Tee nuts

http://www.google.ie/images?as_q=&hl=en&output=search&tbm=isch&btnG=Google+Search&as_epq=tee+nuts&as_oq=&as_eq=&imgtype=&imgsz=&imgw=&imgh=&imgar=&as_filetype=&imgc=&as_sitesearch=&as_rights=&safe=images&as_st=y&biw=1680&bih=837

slowburner

I use polyurethane glue for this kind of stuff - it works well, so long as the treatment is dry and cured. Pressure treated timber, if done properly (in a vacuum tank and not just dipped), should have the preservative visible right into the core of the board, so planing shouldn't be that big an issue - the joint is going to be sealed anyway - or at least it should be. But Carlow 52 is wise to point out that you should treat the cut ends with preservative.
The dust is very nasty alright - ppe should be worn - mask and gloves. The treatment used to be copper, chrome and arsenic but I think that's changed now?
It can be hard to find timber that's been treated and then kiln dried.