Whats the best lacquer for finishing stock?

damagegt

Just wondering what your recommendations would be for the best lacquer to use to finish a stock? I was looking at Nitrocellulose Lacquer spray. Anyone ever used this?

ormondprop

Would that make it slippy in the rain
And very flammable

damagegt

I never thought of that.I'm not sure.Would you know what lacquers are usually used?

ormondprop

I think usually just oils or varnish are used but i dont know much about it, i'm sure somebody who knows what they are talking about can advise you

Double Barrel

Polyurethane, or varnish if you are going the built up finish route.

Danish oil or tung oil or combinations of oil and varnish.

This is a walnut stock?

damagegt

Is the Polyurethane a paint on paste or can i get it in a spray?

Double Barrel

Why don't you tell us what you have first and we can be of more help.
Are you touching up an existing stock with worn finish?
Bare wood -no finish?

Poly comes in spray form but it is not what I would recommend for a stock.
The gel or standard liquid form is more durable.

damagegt

Its actually a wood pistol grip and stock grips I got made for my airsoft type 56-2 (chinese ak).Its bare cherry hardwood.

FISMA

Don't spray on any varnish, clear, or whatever. The best finish will come from an excellent sanding job and hand rubbed oil.

Don't use a stripper on the wood, that will destroy the grain. Sand, sand, and sand some more.

Double Barrel

Several light coats with a rag, mask the checkering if it exists.

http://www.liberon.co.uk/oil-finishes/superior-danish-oil-with-uv-filter,434,464.html?&args=Y29tcF9pZD0zMDQmYWN0aW9uPWZpY2hlUHJvZHVpdCZpZD0xOTYmfA%3D%3D

damagegt

FISMA wrote: »

Don't spray on any varnish, clear, or whatever. The best finish will come from an excellent sanding job and hand rubbed oil.

Don't use a stripper on the wood, that will destroy the grain. Sand, sand, and sand some more.

Thanks lads.Iv ordered the oil and some 12000 grit micomesh.

Double Barrel

A word on sanding, Sand carefully and lightly. It is important that the edges must be maintained when sanding.

Apply with a lint-free cotton cloth and allow to penetrate for 5 to 10 minutes before wiping off excess with a clean lint free cloth. Allow to dry for a minimum of 5-8 hours and apply more coats as required. I would apply at least 5 coats and preferably 10 to ensure adequate protection. . Lightly rub with fine bronze or steel wool (0000) between coats.

FISMA

Double Barrel wrote: »

A word on sanding, Sand carefully and lightly. It is important that the edges must be maintained when sanding.

Apply with a lint-free cotton cloth and allow to penetrate for 5 to 10 minutes before wiping off excess with a clean lint free cloth. Allow to dry for a minimum of 5-8 hours and apply more coats as required. I would apply at least 5 coats and preferably 10 to ensure adequate protection. . Lightly rub with fine bronze or steel wool (0000) between coats.

+1 sounds like DB has done this before!

A friend of mine has a nice SxS merkel with case coloring and rubbed stock. Simply the most beautiful combination for a high end shotgun.

It's all in the prep work!

This summer I plan on refinishing a few of my factory stocks...

Double Barrel

rowa

If you're going to use the traditional boiled linseed oil finish don't buy the stuff in a hardware shop , go to an art shop and buy a bottle of "stand oil" its much more pure and without additives.