kuhn haybob 360.any good ?.

pat73

Was looking at buying a kuhn 300 for the hay season when i spotted the haybob 360.I make small squares in the first cut and round haylage in the second.The 300 suits the square baler but the rows are small for the round baler.The 360 would seem to do both jobs but its alot of money. Just wondering has any one used one and are they a strong machine.

sh1tstirrer

If the swath is too narrow for a round baler you weave through the swath to fill both sides of the bale chamber.

reilig

They are identical to a PZ haybob. Just open out the gates at the rear of the haybob to make the rows as wide as you need them to be for either a round or square baler.

Every baler that I have ever seen has warning stickers on them saying "do not weave through the swath to fill both sides of the bale chamber"

sh1tstirrer

reilig wrote: »

They are identical to a PZ haybob. Just open out the gates at the rear of the haybob to make the rows as wide as you need them to be for either a round or square baler.

Every baler that I have ever seen has warning stickers on them saying "do not weave through the swath to fill both sides of the bale chamber"

Opening the gates of a haybob will not widen the swath unless you have a very heavy crop, even then the swath will be rounded on top with less grass at both sides.

You should have a look at the older krone balers it shows how to weave to fill the bale chamber on the front of the baler. You don't weave like a lunatic down the swath you drive about 10 yards on one side then switch for 10 yards on the other side.

reilig

sh1tstirrer wrote: »

Opening the gates of a haybob will not widen the swath unless you have a very heavy crop, even then the swath will be rounded on top with less grass at both sides.

.

It will if you change the pins to "rowing" mode. Unfortunately 90% of people never change their pins at all from tedding to rowing

sh1tstirrer

reilig wrote: »

It will if you change the pins to "rowing" mode. Unfortunately 90% of people never change their pins at all from tedding to rowing

True, i am in the 10% category though. I also change the tines and springs when they break.

pat73

All good points.Why i was looking at the 360 was to save time when round baling.my second cuts dont be very heavy and when u have a ten acre field rowed up with a 300 it seems like alot of driving around the field to pick up a light enough crop.I dont have my own round baler yet so instead of having a 300 and a rake would the 360 work as both and i only have one piece of machinery to mind.The money is putting me off as its only used prob for a week or two in the year but i would have it for a life time if i minded it.

Muckit

reilig wrote: »

It will if you change the pins to "rowing" mode. Unfortunately 90% of people never change their pins at all from tedding to rowing

Does anyone change the wheel height though, I don't.

Apparently you've to set it on the bottom hole for tedding and set high up on top hole for rowing. Read it a few times over on the BFF.

rliston

Muckit wrote: »

Does anyone change the wheel height though

Are the wheels meant to be adjusted, I'd say those holes are only for show

Muckit

rliston wrote: »

Are the wheels meant to be adjusted, I'd say those holes are only for show

Apparently

Never did it myself, always have it set up high.

But thinking about it, if you've it set high on top hole the reel is tilted down in front and up at the back and so ideal for rowing as it throws the swarth back and fluffs it up.

If it's set on bottom hole, obviously you'I have to lengthen the top link to stop tines eating the dirt and so the reel will probably to in a more level position with the ground. This way the tines should throw the grass out more to the sides, giving a wider spread.

Might get to try it out yet this year.... if we get this heatwave they're promising ofr June/July

I'm a firm believer that 9 times out of 10 if a machine isn't working as well as it should be, it's the operator's fault. Either it's not set up right, it's not being used the right way or the machine needs to be serviced. The machine can't do these things for you. They also can't make you read the owner's manual! But sure what would the manufacturer know, they only mad the damn thing!! Ha!

reilig

Muckit wrote: »

Apparently

Never did it myself, always have it set up high.

But thinking about it, if you've it set high on top hole the reel is tilted down in front and up at the back and so ideal for rowing as it throws the swarth back and fluffs it up.

If it's set on bottom hole, obviously you'I have to lengthen the top link to stop tines eating the dirt and so the reel will probably to in a more level position with the ground. This way the tines should throw the grass out more to the sides, giving a wider spread.

Might get to try it out yet this year.... if we get this heatwave they're promising ofr June/July

Have never moved ours from the middle setting. I fear that on the lower setting I'd break a lot of tines and on the top setting, I just wouldn't rake all the grass

Muckit

reilig wrote: »

Have never moved ours from the middle setting. I fear that on the lower setting I'd break a lot of tines and on the top setting, I just wouldn't rake all the grass

As I say, I never move ours either, but I just thought after reading about other lads changing wheel height, why would the manufacturer put these holes there, if they didn't need to be adjusted??

Only problem I could see with trying out the lowest setting is that the top link wouldn't be long enough to level the reel. But if it could be done, they're shouldn't be any more pressure on the tines and you shouldn't have any more tines breaking than would normally occur.

vanderbadger

does everyone follow the wide tooth narrow tooth wide tooth placement onthe reels? only read recently that it should be this way, I think most of the teeth on our one are the same width

reilig

vanderbadger wrote: »

does everyone follow the wide tooth narrow tooth wide tooth placement onthe reels? only read recently that it should be this way, I think most of the teeth on our one are the same width

I always do. if you don't, you'll end up breaking a lot more springs on your haybob than you need to.

Muckit

I do as well. They reckon if you're stuck, you can stick a narrow tine on in place of a wide one, but not the other way round. Makes sense.

Still haven't gotten round to pullin' out my one and gettin' her set up. Bought a few spare bits there the other day.

Roll pins are 6mm diameter am told, so punch to suit this is the ideal to help change springs;)

quietsailor

I'm going out on a limb here as I'm not a farmer, just used to drive for a contractor years ago so be nice to me please

One of my friends in that outfit was a farmers son and they used a pz haybob on approx 40 acres of hay or silage (depended on the weather), they religiously altered the wheel, tine and gate settings depending on whether they were rowing or turning and they could go several years without breaking a tine. knowing their land did help as well

sea12

quietsailor wrote: »

I'm going out on a limb here as I'm not a farmer, just used to drive for a contractor years ago so be nice to me please

One of my friends in that outfit was a farmers son and they used a pz haybob on approx 40 acres of hay or silage (depended on the weather), they religiously altered the wheel, tine and gate settings depending on whether they were rowing or turning and they could go several years without breaking a tine. knowing their land did help as well

When I bought my pz haybob first, a good machinery neighbour showed me how to change the settlings .
I always change wheels, tines, and never break

Muckit

sea12 wrote: »

I always change wheels, tines

Fiar play sea12 How do you change the wheels? ie what setting for rowing/what setting for tedding?

Thanks

dryan

Never even knew about changing the wheels until i saw this thread.

Haybob had always been on the tedding settings and was seized.
With the the help of a lump hammer and a spray of WD40, i finally got them going.
Couldnt believe the difference - was a different machine altogether!
Learn something new everyday, ehh!

Cheers for the posts lads!

pajero12

If your looking for a haybob alternative take a look at single rotor rakes...Haybobs are meant to bring two 5'6'' swarths together...Ask any baler operator, the make a horrible lumpy swarth. THe single rotor do a much better job

vanderbadger

pajero12 wrote: »

If your looking for a haybob alternative take a look at single rotor rakes...Haybobs are meant to bring two 5'6'' swarths together...Ask any baler operator, the make a horrible lumpy swarth. THe single rotor do a much better job

hey pajero..this year for the first time i got a contractor to rake a field for me, he put 3 of my 8ft rows together and i baled it myself, crop was poorish but i was worried baler wouldnt cope..anyway it was brill, rock solid bales and out of the field very quick..i was thinking going forward this would be the way forward as baling the 8ft row is as slow as hell and hard make a good bale unless crop v heavy..my question is have you ever seen the lely rotonde in action, i think it would take 2 of my 8ft or 2 10ft rows even or would one be better off witha single rotor rake?

maidhc

pajero12 wrote: »

If your looking for a haybob alternative take a look at single rotor rakes...Haybobs are meant to bring two 5'6'' swarths together...Ask any baler operator, the make a horrible lumpy swarth. THe single rotor do a much better job

For silage a haybob is a complete disaster. For hay though, it is hard to beat in terms of price and versatility.

pajero12

vanderbadger wrote: »

hey pajero..this year for the first time i got a contractor to rake a field for me, he put 3 of my 8ft rows together and i baled it myself, crop was poorish but i was worried baler wouldnt cope..anyway it was brill, rock solid bales and out of the field very quick..i was thinking going forward this would be the way forward as baling the 8ft row is as slow as hell and hard make a good bale unless crop v heavy..my question is have you ever seen the lely rotonde in action, i think it would take 2 of my 8ft or 2 10ft rows even or would one be better off witha single rotor rake?

Hi
First of all, I assume the contractors rake was a twin rotor, What make was it?
I havent seen it yet but ive heard good things about it! apparently its a kind of beefed up haybob. whats your budget?

jeff greene

vanderbadger wrote: »

hey pajero..this year for the first time i got a contractor to rake a field for me, he put 3 of my 8ft rows together and i baled it myself, crop was poorish but i was worried baler wouldnt cope..anyway it was brill, rock solid bales and out of the field very quick..i was thinking going forward this would be the way forward as baling the 8ft row is as slow as hell and hard make a good bale unless crop v heavy..my question is have you ever seen the lely rotonde in action, i think it would take 2 of my 8ft or 2 10ft rows even or would one be better off witha single rotor rake?

I do the same in lighter crops, but not in heavy first cut, not easy as I chop all my bales with full knives. As you say, great clearing.

Keep an eye on Donedeal for a Rotunda, a lad in Limerick has them often. I might go for a 10' mower next instead of a rake, then continue with hiring rake for lighter cuts, 10' is nice baling in first cut.

vanderbadger

pajero12 wrote: »

Hi
First of all, I assume the contractors rake was a twin rotor, What make was it?
I havent seen it yet but ive heard good things about it! apparently its a kind of beefed up haybob. whats your budget?

ya it was a twin rotor lely herbiscus or something like that, Im pretty much finished silage for this year, maybe another small bit so its next year im thinking of but budget wont be that big

vanderbadger

jeff greene wrote: »

I do the same in lighter crops, but not in heavy first cut, not easy as I chop all my bales with full knives. As you say, great clearing.

Keep an eye on Donedeal for a Rotunda, a lad in Limerick has them often. I might go for a 10' mower next instead of a rake, then continue with hiring rake for lighter cuts, 10' is nice baling in first cut.

ya 10ft would be a better size but i figured that even if the crop was heavy 2 x8ft rows would be manageable with the rotonde, ther eis one in kilkenny on dondeal but if approx 3k and looks old, alexander mills has a very new one on his site but no price