Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

SSD = wow

Options
1235

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 13,016 ✭✭✭✭vibe666


    quarryman wrote: »
    So what was the problematic setting?
    dram voltage and timings.

    after some more testing it's actually still not 100%, so it looks like i might be RMA'ing after all. :(


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    vibe666 wrote: »
    this basically involves a boot CD or USB disk with one of any number of partitioning tools on it which have a zero write option, which does exactly what it sounds like and writes zeroes across every single bit of the drive, ignoring any partitions or data that might already be on it, so it is nice and pristine for your new OS install.

    technically speaking you might not have to do this before every OS re-install, but there is obviously a good reason why just about every SSD mfg's web forums have detailed guides on how to do it.

    Using a regular zero fill application on SSDs actually makes things worse. The SSD will treat all blocks as written and therefore this hampers write performance... I think that a blank SSD uses F's rather than zeroes.

    What you need to is to secure erase the drive, with OCZ SSDs you can do this in the toolbox but you need to delete all partitions first to be sure you're not wiping the wrong drive.

    Personally I'd do it with every reinstall to keep the SSD in good shape.


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,016 ✭✭✭✭vibe666


    Karsini wrote: »
    Using a regular zero fill application on SSDs actually makes things worse. The SSD will treat all blocks as written and therefore this hampers write performance... I think that a blank SSD uses F's rather than zeroes.
    aha! that might explain a few things with my drive performance, thanks. :)

    that'll teach me to half read things. :p


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,983 ✭✭✭Tea_Bag


    so what's my best option re an Intel boot SSD? I can't delete the partition otherwise I've no OS to launch the Intel toolbox from? do you do this via a bootable usb?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 153 ✭✭Leman


    Tea_Bag wrote: »
    so what's my best option re an Intel boot SSD? I can't delete the partition otherwise I've no OS to launch the Intel toolbox from? do you do this via a bootable usb?

    Easiest solution would be to run an OS off a HDD temporarily. :pac:


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 4,983 ✭✭✭Tea_Bag


    easiest??!
    you're lucky I can't spell nuciance (sp) and that my phone doesn't have a dictionary! :pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,016 ✭✭✭✭vibe666


    there are rumours that you can install windows 7 onto a usb drive or an SD card if that might be an option?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,532 ✭✭✭Unregistered.


    Download a linux live-cd


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,514 ✭✭✭PseudoFamous


    vibe666 wrote: »
    there are rumours that you can install windows 7 onto a usb drive or an SD card if that might be an option?

    It's possible, but using a usb drive to boot an OS is pretty slow. Dunno about SD cards, but I wouldn't imagine they're blazingly fast either. If you happen to have a spare HDD, you should use that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,016 ✭✭✭✭vibe666


    Download a linux live-cd
    unfortunately, that isn't going to help him to run a windows only tool.

    the problem is, it's a windows tool that you can't run on a machine that is booting off the SSD you want to run the tool on so it needs to boot off something else with the SSD acting as a secondary drive.

    not a huge deal with a desktop pc, although it will be a bit awkward, but it's going to be a real PITA on a laptop.


  • Advertisement
  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Social & Fun Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 60,098 Mod ✭✭✭✭Tar.Aldarion


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nx6xNaZf40M

    or windows 7

    (I didnt look at the vid but i hear it's possible)


    I think they can both go on usbs or sdhcs


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,983 ✭✭✭Tea_Bag


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nx6xNaZf40M

    or windows 7

    (I didnt look at the vid but i hear it's possible)


    I think they can both go on usbs or sdhcs
    i hate that guy.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,532 ✭✭✭Unregistered.


    vibe666 wrote: »
    unfortunately, that isn't going to help him to run a windows only tool.

    I thought he was just looking to secure-erase the drive?


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,983 ✭✭✭Tea_Bag


    im just looking to format my SSD for a reinstall of everything. but as has been mentioned already, zero erase hinders performance. i want a factory new format, which means i need to use the intel SSD toolbox eraser (correct?) but i cant use it from the SSD as is cause im booting from it, so ive to install W7 on another HDD, erase SSD, uninstall W7 from HDD and reinstall W7 on SSD.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,532 ✭✭✭Unregistered.


    Tea_Bag wrote: »
    im just looking to format my SSD for a reinstall of everything. but as has been mentioned already, zero erase hinders performance. i want a factory new format, which means i need to use the intel SSD toolbox eraser (correct?) but i cant use it from the SSD as is cause im booting from it, so ive to install W7 on another HDD, erase SSD, uninstall W7 from HDD and reinstall W7 on SSD.
    It's not worth the hassle IMO. Use linux to secure erase the drive and be ready to go in 10 minutes.
    Or don't bother with that and just do a repartition - It's the job of the TRIM command and the controller's wear-levelling algoiritms to worry about restoring performance.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 153 ✭✭Leman


    It's not worth the hassle IMO. Use linux to secure erase the drive and be ready to go in 10 minutes.
    Or don't bother with that and just do a repartition - It's the job of the TRIM command and the controller's wear-levelling algoiritms to worry about restoring performance.

    The intel ones don't do it at the firmware level IIRC.

    Anyway, my Crucial M4 came in the post today. Love it to bits. :D


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    You can run the OCZ toolbox from a 32-bit Windows 7 DVD if you save the oledlg.dll file from C:\WINDOWS\system32 (or syswow64 for 64-bit) in the same folder as the toolbox. Worked for me last week. :) Can't update the firmware but secure erase works.


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,016 ✭✭✭✭vibe666


    Karsini wrote: »
    You can run the OCZ toolbox from a 32-bit Windows 7 DVD if you save the oledlg.dll file from C:\WINDOWS\system32 (or syswow64 for 64-bit) in the same folder as the toolbox. Worked for me last week. :) Can't update the firmware but secure erase works.
    this might do it.

    https://ata.wiki.kernel.org/index.php/ATA_Secure_Erase

    i know you'll have to roll up your sleeves and get down and dirty at the linux command line, but it looks like it'll do the trick for you.

    just make sure there's no other drives connected so you avoid the possibility of accidentally wiping the wrong one. :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,983 ✭✭✭Tea_Bag


    vibe666 wrote: »
    this might do it.

    https://ata.wiki.kernel.org/index.php/ATA_Secure_Erase

    i know you'll have to roll up your sleeves and get down and dirty at the linux command line, but it looks like it'll do the trick for you.

    just make sure there's no other drives connected so you avoid the possibility of accidentally wiping the wrong one. :)

    your link isn't working for me?

    Arg this just sounds nasty and I've no real experience with linux. ill install W7 on another hdd and go from there. thanks for the help lads.


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,016 ✭✭✭✭vibe666


    Tea_Bag wrote: »
    your link isn't working for me?

    Arg this just sounds nasty and I've no real experience with linux. ill install W7 on another hdd and go from there. thanks for the help lads.
    it's working for me and i've tried it from home (via teamviewer) and at work, so not sure why it's not working.

    you could try it via a proxy maybe like this: http://1.hidemyass.com/ip-4/encoded/czovL2F0YS53aWtpLmtlcm5lbC5vcmcvaW5kZXgucGhwL0FUQV9TZWN1cmVfRXJhc2U%3D&f=norefer

    if you have another hdd then it might just be quicker and easier to install win7 on that.

    if you have a 4gb (or bigger) usb flash drive and want to speed up the install process, you might want to give this a try: http://wudt.codeplex.com/

    it'll create a bootable windows installer usb drive from a windows 7 iso file that will install windows 7 in around 11-12 minutes onto an SSD and definitely much faster than a DVD onto a regular HDD too.

    it's only a small download (assuming you have a win7 iso somewhere already or can make one from your win7 DVD) and will make the usb drive in only a couple of mouse clicks.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 23,137 ✭✭✭✭TheDoc


    Well Overclockers received my RMA and processed a full refund for the dodgy RAM.

    Not a tip of a problem with my SSD running on my old ram, so I bought 4GB more of the RAM I already own :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,332 ✭✭✭the untitled user


    Tea_Bag wrote: »
    im just looking to format my SSD for a reinstall of everything. but as has been mentioned already, zero erase hinders performance. i want a factory new format, which means i need to use the intel SSD toolbox eraser (correct?) but i cant use it from the SSD as is cause im booting from it, so ive to install W7 on another HDD, erase SSD, uninstall W7 from HDD and reinstall W7 on SSD.

    Probably too late, but for anyone else the Intel tool (HDDErase) doesn't work for every drive. GParted is more versatile in this regard (this is the partition manager that is included in most linux installers and live CDs, although you can boot it from a USB pretty handily, plenty of tools to make one). URL="http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=81492"]link[/URL

    I've a Corsair Force 3 120GB running in my machine for the past week (P6T on an ICH10R SATA II controller). 3 dropouts since installing. I've a feeling it's linked to turbo mode (they've all happened around the same time as the frequency alteration kicks in). Going to persist with it for another bit and experiment with different configurations.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,356 ✭✭✭seraphimvc


    i would still wait for them to get cheaper :P nowadays i use Sleep mode on my desktop/laptop so they turn on in like 2seconds anyway(after i type in my password). and most games i play is rts.

    would love to get one for my xmas tho!


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,496 ✭✭✭quarryman


    Well it looks like the love affair is over.

    I was getting VERY intermittent issues with the Windows hanging. It would slow down to a crawl regardless of it was under load or sitting at the desktop.

    It was so irregular that I put it down to new build gremlins and just made sure to update all the relevant drivers etc.

    However yesterday it BSOD'd. I reinstalled windows 7 to another SATA HDD and unplugged the SSD completely. If I don't see any more hanging issues then I'll know it's the SSD and I'll be RMA'ing it. :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,332 ✭✭✭the untitled user


    quarryman wrote: »
    Well it looks like the love affair is over.

    I was getting VERY intermittent issues with the Windows hanging. It would slow down to a crawl regardless of it was under load or sitting at the desktop.

    It was so irregular that I put it down to new build gremlins and just made sure to update all the relevant drivers etc.

    However yesterday it BSOD'd. I reinstalled windows 7 to another SATA HDD and unplugged the SSD completely. If I don't see any more hanging issues then I'll know it's the SSD and I'll be RMA'ing it. :(

    The hanging can be caused (in some cases at least) by windows power saving features. try this: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=96663

    I've a Corsair Force 3 occasionally dropping out on me, I'm almost certain it's related to some of the power management features (drops tend to happen when going from quitting a high intensity app to idle or vice versa).


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,137 ✭✭✭✭TheDoc


    Well unfortunately for me blue screens are back after receiving another set of rAM.

    All fingers no points to a problem with the motherboard, PC was running fine for a week with just two sticks in two slots.

    Now running 4 slots, I'm crashing regularly. Will narrow down to three slots to see if I can pinpoint the issue.

    Annoying to say the least, looks like I need to look at a new motherboard :/


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    TheDoc wrote: »
    Well unfortunately for me blue screens are back after receiving another set of rAM.

    All fingers no points to a problem with the motherboard, PC was running fine for a week with just two sticks in two slots.

    Now running 4 slots, I'm crashing regularly. Will narrow down to three slots to see if I can pinpoint the issue.

    Annoying to say the least, looks like I need to look at a new motherboard :/

    Is your board and/or RAM certified for four DIMMs of that type? You may need to either clock it down or increase the voltage slightly if using four modules.


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,016 ✭✭✭✭vibe666


    your best bet is to work with the support dept. of whoever supplied your RAM and they will be able to give you info on the best course of action, which might be underlocking the ram, or even just loosening some of the memory timings slightly.


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,137 ✭✭✭✭TheDoc


    Thats some good thinking, to be honest I've no idea what either of you aid about timings etc.

    I was under the impression I just lob the four of them in and presto.

    What I will say is that this machine came from overclockers, overclocked.

    From what I can read from system performance, the RAM in there, and that I bought is 1600MHZ but when I look at cpu-zd thing it says I've two sticks running at like 2000mhz or something.

    It might very well be to do with the fact that the original two are overlocked, whilst the new two sticks, exact same, are not overlocked?


    Any info guides or help provided here would be great, I'm in work during overclocker support hours so it would be next week before i get this sorted.

    I'd be greatly appreciative. And thanks that is putting me in a good frame of mind, that it might be simply that the two sets of two slots are running differently


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 13,016 ✭✭✭✭vibe666


    the problem is, with some high end RAM, what your motherboard thinks it will run at at what it will actually run at aren't always the same thing, particularly when overclocking is involved.

    the other thing is, you might well have separate memory settings for each pair of DIMM's so it's likely that although your initial pair were set correctly, the 2nd pair are running at the stock settings since the settings cannot be changed if the memory slots aren't populated.

    the overclockers forums are generally very good, but the best thing to do is to contact whoever actually makes your RAM and ask on their forums for the optimum settings when using 4 sticks of that specific RAM (you'll want the exact model no's for RAM & mobo) with your particular motherboard.


Advertisement