Wood Glue, External Application

prospect

Can anyone recommend a good strong timber to timber glue for external use.

Thanks.

galwaydude18

prospect wrote: »

Can anyone recommend a good strong timber to timber glue for external use.

Thanks.

You can buy exterior grade pva wood glue or you can cascamite wood glue that comes in a powder form that needs to be mixed with water for external use.

Also there is pu woodglue. This stuff Is unreal strong and sets ad hard ad concrete. It will also harden quicker if one surface is doughty damped with a cloth etc. The best pu woodglue I have used is the Lumber Jack one. It's comes in the same kind of tubes as silicone and is the hardest thing to get off your hands if you get it on them so I would advise the use of rubber gloves when using it.

slowburner

I would second the use of PU glue. And second the stuff that comes in tubes.
The well known brand that comes in a bottle is an insane price and invariably 3/4 of it ends up unusable. PU glue requires tight joints and/or clamping though and you need to be well prepared - it sets very fast. The curing process (it expands on contact with moisture) can force unclamped butt joints apart.
The only place where I would not have total faith in it would be for greenhouse or conservatory construction where temperatures could get high enough for the glue to fail.

galwaydude18

slowburner wrote: »

I would second the use of PU glue. And second the stuff that comes in tubes.
The well known brand that comes in a bottle is an insane price and invariably 3/4 of it ends up unusable. PU glue requires tight joints and/or clamping though and you need to be well prepared - it sets very fast. The curing process (it expands on contact with moisture) can force unclamped butt joints apart.
The only place where I would not have total faith in it would be for greenhouse or conservatory construction where temperatures could get high enough for the glue to fail.

The pu you are on about slowburner is Gorilla Glue. Unless you are using a bottle of that everyday it will go off and set hard in the bottle. Same applies to the one in the silicone tubes. When clamping up you need everything laid out before you start as there is a very short open time with it. It will start to skin up within a minute of being out in the open air

slowburner

galwaydude18 wrote: »

The pu you are on about slowburner is Gorilla Glue. Unless you are using a bottle of that everyday it will go off and set hard in the bottle. Same applies to the one in the silicone tubes. When clamping up you need everything laid out before you start as there is a very short open time with it. It will start to skin up within a minute of being out in the open air

I didn't want to name and shame! Bought one bottle years ago - never again.
The glue in the tube will last ages, even when not used every day, if it was recently produced and sealed properly after use.
You should keep an eye on the production date in the small print if it is going off on you.
I had problems with tubes which were on sale more than a year after they were produced - I broke mastic guns trying to get the stuff out. They have a shorter shelf life then merchants realise.
And my tip of the day: rubbing sawdust on the joints while the glue is curing stops the glue from getting on your hands.

galwaydude18

slowburner wrote: »

galwaydude18 wrote: »

The pu you are on about slowburner is Gorilla Glue. Unless you are using a bottle of that everyday it will go off and set hard in the bottle. Same applies to the one in the silicone tubes. When clamping up you need everything laid out before you start as there is a very short open time with it. It will start to skin up within a minute of being out in the open air

I didn't want to name and shame! Bought one bottle years ago - never again.
The glue in the tube will last ages, even when not used every day, if it was recently produced and sealed properly after use.
You should keep an eye on the production date in the small print if it is going off on you.
I had problems with tubes which were on sale more than a year after they were produced - I broke mastic guns trying to get the stuff out. They have a shorter shelf life then merchants realise.
And my tip of the day: rubbing sawdust on the joints while the glue is curing stops the glue from getting on your hands.

Sorry I should have been more clear. I didn't mean the entire tube (the silicone tube ones) go off. It's what is in the tip that goes off and makes it's unusable unless you have spare tips or cut the tube open. I have personally never used the gorilla glue myself

prospect

Thanks for all the tips.

Is PU Glue a brand or a type of glue, and where can it by found (Pm me if you can recommend a supplier).

I need it to fix a pair of timber gates that are separating. I have a large ratchet and strap so I am going to put glue in the gaps, ratchet it tight and then bolt/screw the gate where it is required. So I need very little really.

slowburner

prospect wrote: »

Thanks for all the tips.

Is PU Glue a brand or a type of glue, and where can it by found (Pm me if you can recommend a supplier).

I need it to fix a pair of timber gates that are separating. I have a large ratchet and strap so I am going to put glue in the gaps, ratchet it tight and then bolt/screw the gate where it is required. So I need very little really.

PU, short for Polyurethane. You can get polyurethane wood glue in most builders' merchants. In your particular case, you might be better off buying a bottle of weatherproof PVA - the one that comes in a blue bottle (made by Evo-Stik). It has a longer open time than PU. By the time you would have applied PU to all the gaps and set up the ratchet strap, there is a strong possibility that the glue would have begun to cure. If you think you can set it all up so that you can assemble everything in under 5 minutes, the PU wood glue would do the job.

prospect

Cool.

The gate is hanging, but some of the horizontal posts are seperating out from the vertical 'spine' that the hinges are attached to.

So the ratchet will be in place, meaning I'll be able to tighten it all up instantly after applying the glue, and then I'll be able to bolt it up while it is strapped up.

Thats the plan anyway...

slowburner

prospect wrote: »

Cool.

The gate is hanging, but some of the horizontal posts are seperating out from the vertical 'spine' that the hinges are attached to.

So the ratchet will be in place, meaning I'll be able to tighten it all up instantly after applying the glue, and then I'll be able to bolt it up while it is strapped up.

Thats the plan anyway...

Best of luck with it. You might need to put some plastic between the strap and the glue - or the strap could become a permanent feature of the gate!

jack of all

Polyurethane glue might be a good choice for your gate as it does expand and has good gap filling properties- I've used to to good effect when repairing old furniture with loose tenon or dowel joints.

slowburner

jack of all wrote: »

Polyurethane glue might be a good choice for your gate as it does expand and has good gap filling properties- I've used to to good effect when repairing old furniture with loose tenon or dowel joints.

It does expand and fill gaps but has next to no strength unless it is in firm contact with the wood on both sides of the joint.

cnocbui

2 part epoxy would be another alternative like West Sytems. Not too sure where you could get it apart from online or a ships chandlers.