Chain Saw Question

rooferPete

Hi,

Sorry I'm not a regular visitor to the gardening forum however I thought it the best place to ask.

I have a chainsaw that is very unfriendly to use I have attached photos of what it looks like before and after four small cuts, the chain has come off a few times.

I checked the manual and everything is as the manufacturer states, I have sent them emails asking if they have a problem with that model but didn't get a reply.

All thoughts / ideas welcomed.

Regards,

Pete.

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ponddigger

hi ,are they nuts on saw to thightin the chain,:Dponddigger:D

MungBean

Check the chain for damage too, the first time it came off could have bent some of the links. if they are all ok and the chain moves freely then just make sure the chain is tightened. If its not staying tight when ya tighten it with the way the book says it could be nuts underneath the casing that need tightening.

Nonmonotonic

Several possibilities. Is it the correct chain for the bar? Is there chain oil coming onto the chain? Is the channel on the bar where the chain sits clean ( use thin plastic/stick to clean groove)? Is the chain tension correct ( adjustment under cover ) because if its too tight the chain will come off. Chain should should be loose enough to pull away from the bar by 3/4 mm.

rooferPete

Hi,

The chain is the original and because of the way it behaves has very little use.

I think the mechanism for tightening the chain is the problem, there is a large disc that clips into slots on the side panel, the tightening process is to loosen the disc and then use a wheel to tighten the bar against the chain, then tighten the disc.

I would expect the chain loosen from use, it appears that the very parts meant to allow easy adjustment are not holding the bar tight.

There is plenty of chain oil used because the blade will get wrecked without it.

The brand name Mc Culloch is supposed to be a good one, appears they make Husqvarna and a few other brands at the same factory.

The retailer checked it and could not find a fault with the assembly but has not stocked that type since he couldn't get a satisfactory answer either.

Thanks for your thoughts on the matter, much appreciated.

Regards,

Pete

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Nonmonotonic

What model is this?

The tensioning arrangement seems very suspect. I have a Stihl which requires loosening two large nuts to allow tensioning. Is the problem that the tightening disk is not working properly allowing the chain to come off the sprocket? Have you checked behind the orange cover (taken it off)?

john t

Roofer Pete your not used too chain-saws. your cutting dry wood like cross beams which chain saw not really designed for, but you can buy chain saws for different purpose like electricity poles or dry wood, ur saw is general purpose so you have too re tighten chain regularly...

aerosol

Are you tensioning the chain correctly? The tensioner on your saw is a tooless one which should be foolproof;)


Take the sproket cover off and make sure the sproket is ok and that the chain is aligned propely. If your not sure,post a photo of the saw with the cover off..

rooferPete

Hi All,

Thank you for your replies.

Nomonotonic, I have seen a Stihl of similar size being worked all day, the operator was a professional using the saw like an extension of his arm.

He only stopped once to adjust / tighten the blade during his lunch break, I didn't see him using any chain oil and very little petrol compared to what mine is using.

When buying I thought a Stihl would be too much for an amatuer like me and went for this one because it looked easier to maintain, looks like I made the wrong choice.

john t, you are correct I am not experienced with chain saws to be honest I didn't know there were different types, I wasn't using the saw to cut the wood in the background, I use an old table saw for that much faster and less waste / saw dust.

aerosol, you are correct the saw is easy to adjust no tools are needed, there are guides at the front of the bar and a wheel with cogs at the back where it gets the power to turn the chain.

Foolproof ? I wouldn't be so sure this fool manages to make a mess of it

I have attached a few photos, the saw was nice and tight before starting to cut what is a fairly small stump of a dead shrub / bush.

I was cutting one a bit bigger earlier and the chain came off, the mechanism behind the cover is exactly as it appears in the manual, seems a bit much to expect to have to stop and re-set after each cut ?

Regards,

Pete

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CJhaughey

Pete
I am not a huge fan of the tool less chain tightening systems but they can be made to work OK if you take a little time setting them up.

1.First make sure the bar groove is clean and doesn't have a bit of grit or something else stuck in there derailing the chain.
I use a piece of hacksaw blade that I ground a hook into to run around the groove to make sure it doesn't have anything stuck in it.
2.Check the nose of the bar that the sprocket turns freely and doesn't stick.
If it does put a bit of grease into the holes each side of the sprocket and try and free it.
3.Check the chains drive links to make sure none of them are bent or twisted.
4.Stick the chain onto the saw and tighten it a little so you can pull it off by hand so the drive link won't come all the way out of the bar groove.
probably 6mm or so.
5.Hold the saw and rest the end of the bar on a log or hard surface, then tighten the bar down.
6.Check the chain tension and make sure it can only lift out of the groove to the height of the drive link.
If it come out further than that it's too loose and needs to be re-tensioned.
If you tension the chain with the bar hanging down it will slacken off under use.

PS cutting stumps is hard on chains, make sure its sharp as well.
hope this helps

rooferPete

Hi CJhaughey,

Reading your tips it appears the mistake I am making is number 5, instead of supporting the bar and blade on a hard surface I was kind of lifting it with one hand while applying the tension.

I'll give your method a try next week, maybe a little copper grease on the sprocket at the nose of the bar wouldn't hurt?

Thank you,

Pete.

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CJhaughey

rooferPete wrote: »

Hi CJhaughey,

Reading your tips it appears the mistake I am making is number 5, instead of supporting the bar and blade on a hard surface I was kind of lifting it with one hand while applying the tension.

I'll give your method a try next week, maybe a little copper grease on the sprocket at the nose of the bar wouldn't hurt?
.

Sounds like you were trying to do the same thing.
Its really just to make sure the bar is in the uppermost position against the bar studs while you tighten them.

Copper grease? I wouldn't use it, Its more of a high heat antiseize compound. More for exhaust studs and the like.
If you haven't got grease just use some oil, ATF or the like.
Chain oil would do at a pinch. The main thing is it should run free and not bind.

rooferPete

Thanks CJhaughey,

Being a bit over the top with copper grease I tend to take as many pre-cautions as possible when using this type of equipment, chain saws don't forgive mistakes

I plenty of different types of grease in the shed, I'll stay with the standard type.

Regards,

Pete.

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Nonmonotonic

You don't need to use grease. The purpose of chain oil is to lubricate chain and bar that is why you need to keep the groove in the bar clean. There are also holes at the engine end of the bar where the chain oil comes out, these should also be clear. Is the sprocket on the end of the bar free to rotate because the chain seems to be riding high as it comes off? Another question, how sharp is the chain because image of the stump looks like being burned ( blunt chain ). I also don't see any wood chippings just looks like timber is flayed.

rooferPete

Hi Nonmonotonic,

The chain is good and sharp, the black mark on the stump came from the chain oil, the saw appears to use a lot of it for example if I leave the saw on the ground and hold the trigger / switch a stream of oil comes off the blade marking the ground.

I think the chips / saw dust may have been raked away as I was cutting, being cautious I tend to try and keep the work area as clean as possible.

Yes the sprockets at the end of the bar are free, moving very easy when I rotate the chain by hand (without the engine on), this has happened a few times I reckon another few minutes work and the chain would have come off completely.

I have another small job to do with it this week and will follow the great advice I received here and report back.

Regards,

Pete.

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Nonmonotonic

OK some final thoughts!
Looking again at pic 2 , the chain seems to come off at the drive sprocket end. From this parts list, is part no 10 (clutch washer) missing? or, seeing you have had to put on the chain several times, is part no 46 (clutch cover) seated correctly?

CJhaughey

Chain oil lubes the chain where it contacts the bar. If the chain is spinning around the bar and centrifugal force is flinging it off how does it lubricate the nose wheel bearing which is inside the sprocket?
It can't thats why the manufacturer puts little holes each side of the sprocket so it can be greased.
If it wasn't meant to be greased then the manufacturer wouldn't bother drilling another two lube holes in the bar, it would save him time and money.
Oregon supply most of the bars that are fitted, and their own manual states that grease should be pumped through the nose until you can see it come out.
If you like running yours without lube, its your bar to do as you please. but please don't give advice that isn't based on fact.

Nonmonotonic

Relax, CJ.
Stihl chainsaw bars don't need be greased. Oregon ones can be. Lets not get too shirty about it. As you would know that the consistency of bar oil (sticky) resists the tendency to be flung off and lubricates both bar and chain. Its irrelevant anyway because according to the OP there is no problem with the bar sprocket. He hasn't been able to use it long enough to wear it out!