Problem catching a wave before it breaks

SuprSi

I've been surfing for a few months now, to the point that I can stand up on most of the waves I catch. I'm using a 9 foot longboard but while I'm getting better at standing up, I'm not getting better at catching a wave. The only wave I'm able to catch is one that has broken, or is right at the point of breaking. This is grand as I can still get my technique right, but obviously I don't get as much out of the wave as I could.

I'm 6' 4" and 16 stone and I'm wondering if the board is simply not bouyant enough for me. If I try to catch an unbroken wave and my weight is slightly back on the board, the wave goes under me regardless of how hard I paddle. If I lean more forward, I start to catch the wave, but the nose of the board is already under the water and I immediately nose-dive. I can't seem to find the sweetspot that would allow me to catch the wave.

This has me asking myself whether the board (which is rented) is just not designed for someone who weighs as much as me or is as tall as me, or whether I'm doing something wrong. I was really frustrated after two hours in the surf this afternoon as I hadn't managed to get it right.

Any suggestions?

cornbb

I think that this should be doable on a 9ft board. Its normal for the sweet spot you are talking about to be really small. On one of my smaller boards, I use part of the graphics on the deck as a reference point which I'll know I need to keep my chin over. If you keep trying, you will probably find your ideal position.

An unbroken wave will always be significantly more difficult to catch than a broken one. Are you trying to catch it too soon perhaps? Obviously, your best chance is to catch it in the couple of seconds before it breaks. Your position in relation to the breaking waves is really important. Take some time to scan the breaking waves before you get in the water. Keep an eye on what other surfers are doing.

You probably know this already, but you need to really paddle your ass off to have the best chance If I find I need a little bit extra to push me over the edge, I bend my knees at the last moment as having legs in the air will bring my centre of gravity forward a tiny bit.

Mickeroo

I'd go with everything cornbb said pretty much. I also find keeping my head as low as possible helps too, a good way to do this is make sure your chin is touching the surface of the board when you're going for the wave.

SuprSi

I guess I could be trying to catch them a little early. Is it not possible to catch them as they're rolling in, like maybe 10 seconds before they break? Today we had 5 - 6 foot waves and they were fairly steep so I thought I would be able to catch them there and keep on them the whole way in.

I didn't realise the sweetspot would be so small. I have tried 2 different boards and have the same problem with both but I guess it's just a case of practice until get it right! Thanks for your help!

cornbb

SuprSi wrote: »

I guess I could be trying to catch them a little early. Is it not possible to catch them as they're rolling in, like maybe 10 seconds before they break? Today we had 5 - 6 foot waves and they were fairly steep so I thought I would be able to catch them there and keep on them the whole way in.

I didn't realise the sweetspot would be so small. I have tried 2 different boards and have the same problem with both but I guess it's just a case of practice until get it right! Thanks for your help!

It would be possible to catch them 10 seconds earlier, but much more difficult. Catching them later will give you a shorter ride (at least until you learn to stay in front of the breaking water) but will be easier.

Best of luck.

ben bennett

i get lots of people who have this problem so here are a few things that might help.

to find the sweet spot, catch a couple of white water waves and just ride them on your belly to the beach, have your hands under or behind your arm pits, and your head and chest down on the board, you should be able to curise all the way in, if you are losing speed you need to shift up the board, if you are unbalanced shift slightly back. a couple of goes and you should be on it, then stick to this spot for everything, your paddling out, catching waves etc.

you dont need to paddle your guts out to catch a wave,you need to get the best out of your board (the sweet spot) and the best from the wave, steep but not quite breaking. if you sit out to far as many do you have to paddle hard to get to the spot where the wave is steep enough to take you, if you sit in and wait for the wave to build you only need a short paddle in as the wave has all the power.

to avoid nose diving try to take of at a slight angle in the direction you want to go along the wave, look down the wave and that will give you the angle and the board wont drop down the face and nose dive. Also people often nose dive becuase they have their hands to the front of the board which adds extra weight and sinks the board.

also consider your paddle long deep strokes much better then loads of short fast ones,

hope that helps if you are still struggling give me a shout next time youcome down lahinchway

Kell

Mickeroo wrote: »

a good way to do this is make sure your chin is touching the surface of the board when you're going for the wave.

Absolutely NOT. Tilt your back as far away from the deck as possible and pound the water with a downward stroke instead of over the arm stroke- it will move you much faster. Buy a surfing DVD and see how many Pro's touch the deck with their chin.

Before you even get on your board, stand beside it in the water and see how far the nose is out of the water as this is the position that it will move naturally in. Thats where the nose should also be when you are taking off.

When I look at surfers fail to catch waves, they are ALWAYS too far back on the board with the nose pointing at the sky. It should be as close the water as possible.

With a 9ft board, you should be able to catch ripples in a puddle, so, make sure the nose is in its natural place, lean as far back as possible and pound the f*ck out of the water and weeeeeeeeeeeeeee..................

K-

SuprSi

Thanks for the feedback guys, I'll give the tips a shot the next time there's a decent swell!

Mickeroo

Kell wrote: »

Absolutely NOT. Tilt your back as far away from the deck as possible and pound the water with a downward stroke instead of over the arm stroke- it will move you much faster. Buy a surfing DVD and see how many Pro's touch the deck with their chin.

Before you even get on your board, stand beside it in the water and see how far the nose is out of the water as this is the position that it will move naturally in. Thats where the nose should also be when you are taking off.

When I look at surfers fail to catch waves, they are ALWAYS too far back on the board with the nose pointing at the sky. It should be as close the water as possible.

With a 9ft board, you should be able to catch ripples in a puddle, so, make sure the nose is in its natural place, lean as far back as possible and pound the f*ck out of the water and weeeeeeeeeeeeeee..................

K-

I'd have to disagree, tilting as far back as possible puts more weight on the back of the board imo. Putting chin on the board is just an exaggeration to keep the head lower while learning. If your head's up too far your centre of gravity is back making it more likely for the board's nose to be up. *shrug*

Agree with you on keeping the nose of the board down and that, most common mistake I see in the water too.

Kell

Mickeroo wrote: »

I'd have to disagree, tilting as far back as possible puts more weight on the back of the board imo.

Trust me. When you lean back, the nose should still be the appropriate distance out of the water therefore leaning back doesnt impact where your weight is and the board is still in the right position. It also allows you to "dig" with your hands rather than do a swim front crawl stroke resulting in a more powerful stroke on take off and an easier path out back.

K-

SuprSi

Well I had another go on the waves today. They weren't quite as big as yesterday though still about 2 - 3 feet. I tried Ben's suggestiong of finding the sweetspot by just lying flat and riding the wave all the way in, and then when I tried to catch the wave I paddled with much deeper and longer strokes, which meant I was able to catch the wave much easier.

Which all resulted in my best day surfing since I first took it up! So thanks again for all your help

FlashD

You shouldn't need to be paddling for 10 secs to catch a wave, that's crazy, your positioning is all wrong, you are sitting too far back from the peak (where it starts to break). Jeez man! You have yourself killed out in a half hour at that craic. 2-3 strokes + doudle stroke should do it on a 9+

My friend started out years ago with me, we were tackling the sport about a year at this stage, he developed this problem where he couldn't catch a wave. He used to throw in a huge paddling effort for anything decent but some sessions he would catch nothing.

Looking back, I believe he developed a fear of going over the falls or getting caught inside on a something bigger which is why he started sitting too far back. To be honest we were both also tackling wave sizes beyond our abilities.

Ssometimes you need to to take a few steps back, seems like you have done this already OP, time to get your own board (9+, long wide + stable), hit the smaller stuff get the confidence going again and build from there.

Don't let the fear take hold!

I would just point out, on the take off, someone said to keep your chest on the board on take off, if you are positioned correctly (I don't like paddling all day for a wave), you should be starting to raise your chest just before the take off otherwise you will pearl (nosedive) the board into the face.

This was a huge problem for me for about 3-4 years. It also gives you more time to get your feet as your chest is already in the correct postion so it is just a matter of bringing your feet up and under and away you go.

Happy days!:)

Kell

SuprSi wrote: »

with much deeper and longer strokes,

The key to many happy outcomes in life

K-

rodento

One thing you can try is paddle practice, will make you fitter/stronger/better at catching waves

Or do a course with Ben

keryl

Got a board a while back, only been able to use it last few weeks. I had/have the same problem but I've gone shorter in board length. So for me, I've been catching the wave that bit earlier, paddling like hell (definitely needed when going down in size) to get in there and up nice and fast.

Zygnoth

A lot of the advice here is very good so I'll only add to it.

- First off, look at this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyKBoBTnV3A&feature=results_video&playnext=1&list=PL49760CA8A2845607 and press '4'. You see Andy Irons cruising into a wave, catch it and stand up. He's on a longboard as well and it's a very controlled maneuver. (Btw, his chin goes from high to low to high again )
- Next, take ten minutes out to look at this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I62X7kgzivw These tutorials are absolutely amazing - he talks through the mechanics of catching waves. There's loads of other tutorials as well and have a load of information for beginners and others.
- Big waves are poor for learning how to surf green waves. Generally, they haven't had as much opportunity to slow down than smaller waves and, thus, are travelling a lot faster - this means you have to paddle faster. This is why big wave surfers have often been champion swimmers.
- I don't condone dropping in, but if you have a good surfer friend or make a friend in the water with a similar size board try to match their speed and acceleration. You'll probably find that you're not catching as much water with your hands as you think.
- A good way of building your catch up is by going to the swimming pool and doing front crawl lengths. Try to catch as much with your hands and arms as possible, pulling slowly but very strongly - this will tire you out considerably. Another drill is to swim with fists and you'll understand how your arms add resistance as well.
- Practice your pop. The quicker you get up on your board, the better. The steeper the wave, the greater the chance of pearling.